Watches & Wonders 2026: Cartier pays tribute to the original pilot’s watch with three stunning new Santos Dumont models in Yellow Gold & Platinum.
Cartier is perhaps one of the best storytellers in the watch business. Each collection has a great backstory to it. Each is steeped in the maison’s history across the decades and in some cases, the last century or so. One of these is the Santos de Cartier collection, specifically, the Santos Dumont. Named after the famed Brazilian adventurer and pilot, Alberto Santos-Dumont, a personal friend of Louis Cartier, it was designed to be the world’s first pilot’s watch for Santos-Dumont and his flights in his lightweight plane, the Demoiselle.
Paying Tribute To An Icon
Now, in 2026, for Watches & Wonders, Cartier is again paying tribute to the original Santos with three new large models, measuring 31.4 mm in diameter and 43.5mm lug-to-lug. Each is crafted from precious metal: two in 18k yellow gold, and one in platinum. And each is complete with a new bracelet that takes us back to the 1920’s, when Cartier first introduced its first made-to-measure metal watch bracelets.
The first, and centrepiece for this collection, is the 18k yellow gold model with a gilded obsidian dial. Sourced from Mexico, this volcanic stone reveals subtle iridescent reflections thanks to tiny trapped air bubbles, meaning no two dials are exactly the same. At just 0.3mm thick, it’s incredibly delicate—more akin to glass—which makes it a real challenge to work with. Once cut, it’s carefully polished to bring out its depth and natural radiance by the skilled artisans at Cartier.
The dial up close is exactly how Cartier describes it, gilded. It is like someone has given the black obsidian dial a light sprinkling of gold dust, which gives it a deep lustre with almost a metallic sheen. This is complemented nicely with the applied gold Roman numerals, gold hands and polished bezel with the visible screws. All are hallmarks of the original from 1904.
The next two watches in the collection are variations on the above. A second 18k yellow gold model pairs with the obsidian version. This time, Cartier has given the watch a silver satin-finished dial with Roman numerals and the classic railway outer-track. Offsetting this is the Blue-fired hands, each of which is individually inspected for imperfections and discarded if not up to Cartier’s standards. On each 18k yellow gold model is the famous blue sapphire cabochon adorning the crown.
Rounding out the new trio is the full platinum model, crafted from 950 platinum. If you think the gold models have weight to them, then the full platinum version will be even more so, thanks to platinum being about 30% heavier than gold. This model shares the same silver satin-finished dial with Roman numerals and blue-fired hands, and being a platinum watch, Cartier incorporates a ruby cabochon on the crown.
The Bracelet
As mentioned, Cartier has delved back into the archives to 1920 when the maison started first to offer made-to-measure metal watch bracelets. For the modern incarnation of the new Cartier bracelet, the maison has designed a bracelet that is all about comfort and refinement, sitting soft and fluid against the wrist. That feel comes from the finely constructed mesh, made up of 1.15mm-thick links across 15 rows, adding up to 394 individual pieces. Each one is machined, finished and assembled at the Manufacture, before the polished bracelet is fitted to the case and clasp.
Each bracelet is interchangeable; however, Cartier, at the time of writing this article, doesn’t specify the method, or whether additional straps are available with the new collection. I would take a guess that these are designed with the quick change mechanism, similar to the Santos collection, and being the standard Santos Dumont large size dimensions, you could choose to purchase additional leather straps from Cartier. I can see a dark brown alligator on the obsidian, a nice tan or black calf on the yellow gold with the silver dial, and really, any on the platinum.
A Manufacture Movement
Inside the new models is the Manufacture Cariter 430 manual winding movement. The Cartier calibre 430 MC is all about slimness and elegance, perfectly suited to the Santos-Dumont’s design. First developed in 1996, it’s an ultra-thin, manually wound movement that allows the case to stay refined and thin on the wrist, while still delivering that traditional, tactile winding experience.
The movement, while robust and reliable, is less about technical showmanship and more about proportion and wearability. It’s a simple time-only calibre, but one that prioritises reliability and thinness, often reserved for more refined or artistic pieces within the collection.
Based on a Piaget 430 Calibre, we’ve seen Cartier use it many times over in Santos Dumont models, extra thin Tourtue and Ballon Bleu precious metal models. It beats away at 3Hz / 21,600 VpH, and has approximately a 42-hour power reserve.
Initial Thoughts
There is a reason why the Santos Dumont is a classic and an icon. Take away the history and the origin story, the Santos Dumont is a timeless, classic and refined watch. It works on many levels as well, being able to elevate an outfit or adds a final touch to one. The steel variants are great value for money, and for those who like and can afford a little more luxury, the precious metal collection really hits home. Cartier’s addition of the, let’s call it a “Slinky Bracelet” gives the Santos Dumont a whole new look, and, in turn, a new feel on the wrist.
More and more brands are bringing out refined bracelet options these days, like Rolex with the Settimo, Jaeger-LeCoultre with the Milanese link bracelet in 18k pink gold, and even Omega recently with its gold mesh bracelet on the new Constellation Observatory – a bracelet that gives off strong Piaget vibes if you’ve ever seen their detailed vintage mesh bracelets.
If these models are anything like the Tank Privé from a few years ago, then I would say they will be very well received by collectors and watch lovers the world over. The good thing is, these are not Privé and not limited, so once available in store this year, you can purchase them should you wish to.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specifications |
|---|---|
| References | PUWA11987 (Obsidian), PUWA11989 (Gold & Silver Dial), PUWA11990 (Platinum) |
| Dimensions | 31.5mm x 43.5 mm x 7.3 mm thick |
| Case | 18k yellow gold or 950 platinum, brushed & polished |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating |
| Dial | Gilded obsidian with yellow gold hands & numerals, Silver satin dial with blue-fired hands & roman numerals |
| Caseback | 18k Yellow gold or 950 platinum |
| Movement | Manual mechanical movement, calibre 430 MC beating at 3Hz / 21,600 VpH |
| Functions | Hours & minutes |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres (3 ATM) |
| Bracelet | 18k Yellow gold or 950 platinum interchangable bracelets |