Watches & Wonders 2026: BVLGARI has downsized the Octo Finissimo collection for smaller wrists, now in a svelte 37 mm size!
2026 seems to be the year when watches are slimming down. Or rather, the brands are recognising that smaller watches have a wider ranging appeal. From those who have smaller wrists to ladies wanting a more comfortable and better-sized version of the standard collections, smaller variants make sense. Bvlgari, it seems, has done just this, taking the Octo Finissimo collection and refining it – now in a more unisex 37 mm size.
The new Bvlgari Octo Finissimo collection comprises four new models. Two models in titanium – one with a sandblasted finish, the other satin-brushed and polished for two different textures and looks. The third is crafted in 18k yellow gold, giving the wearer more heft and a feeling of ultimate luxury. The fourth is a high complication in the form of a sandblasted titanium minute repeater.
The Art Of Miniaturisation
Taking a 40 mm watch and resizing it is not just about scaling it down. Elements of the case, bracelet and of course, the movement don’t scale well. The movement is especially hard, as you need to consider the power reserve, power transfer through the gear train, amplitude of the watch and diameter and thickness. Change one thing, and this affects another. Bvlgari has mastered the art of this miniaturisation process, something we saw first hand when visiting the Bvlgari Haute Hologerie manufacture in Le Sentier last year.
As a result, the Octo Finissimo 37 debuts a brand-new movement, entirely designed and made in-house by Bvlgari. The BVF 100.
After three years of development and testing at Bvlgari’s aforementioned Swiss manufacture, the self-winding calibre BVF 100 with a micro-rotor takes its place in the new Octo Finissimo range. At just 2.35 mm thick and 31 mm in diameter, Bvlgari has managed to ensure it still delivers a 72-hour power reserve, or three full days — making it practical for daily wear without constant winding.
It achieves this via a high-energy-storing barrel in a more compact format. The movement, despite being 0.12 mm thicker than that in the 40 mm Octo Finissimo, achieves a 20% reduction in volume. This was made possible by developments over the past three years on Piccolissimo and Solotempo ladies’ movements, powering the most iconic Serpenti watches.
The finishing is just as refined as the engineering. On closer inspection, you’ll notice a fresh take on the octagonal screws. The bridges and mainplate are decorated with radiating Côtes de Genève, a rarer and more intricate motif than the usual straight Geneva stripes, underlining the movement’s attention to detail. The baseplate has miniature swirls of perlage, and the rotor is solarised, all of which gives different textures and depth to the movement.
Three Core Models
As highlighted, Bvlgari has brought forth three core models: two in titanium and one 18k yellow gold. We’ll get to the minute repeater in a bit. Each is sized in the 37 mm diameter case, and each measures just 6.45 mm thick, continuing Bvlgari’s obsession with thin watches. There is a reason the brand has held 10 world records for the thinnest watch in the world across multiple categories since 2014.
The first two are both titanium, but Bvlgari has finished them a little differently to give them each a unique look when compared to the other. The Satin-brushed and polished model gives off those classic Octo Finissimo vibes, with the vertical brushing on the bracelet and case, the finishing interplaying between the high polished areas on the inner joining bracelet links and the angular edges and facets of the case. The other is a full sandblasted model that dulls the titanium down for a more industrial look.
The third ticks the ultra-luxury box, with a full 18k yellow gold model that mirrors the finish of the Satin-brushed titanium version, with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that catch the light. Bvlgari goes one step further on this watch, with a monochromatic yellow gold dial with yellow gold-plated hands and indexes. Even the screw-down crown is 18k yellow gold with a black ceramic insert.
Bvlgari has refined the case design and elements of these watches as well, not just a simple “Honey, I Shrunk The Kids” job. The Roman brand has redesigned the junction of the case and bracelet, now achieved through a screw-fastening system. The bi-folding friction clasp is gone, now with a push-button clasp – much better in my opinion, as friction clasps do wear and loosen over time.
“The Octo Finissimo 37 marks a significant evolution for Bvlgari. It is the watch of maturity. By reinterpreting the Octo Finissimo codes with this new dimension, we have created a timepiece that goes beyond technical prowess to fully embrace the contemporary art of living.”
JeanChristophe Babin, CEO of LVMH Watches and CEO of Bvlgari.
Chiming The Time
In addition to the three models above, Bvlgari has introduced a minute repeater to cap off the 37 mm collection. Made from titanium, which is an excellent sound resonator, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater shares the same design language as the rest in a 37 mm sandblasted case and bracelet, and is just slightly thicker at 6.85 mm to accommodate the hammers and gongs.
Inside is the BVL 362 Calibre. An ultra-thin, manual winding chiming calibre. This is the same that was inside the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo minute repeater released at Baselworld in 2016, and subsequently took out the title of the world’s thinnest chiming watch. It measured just 3.12mm thick for the calibre, and the watch came in at 40mm x 6.85mm.
If you notice, the dial’s indices and small seconds are cut out, sandwich style, to allow more sound to escape from the watch. I’ve heard the 40mm version in person, and it sounds crystal clear thanks to the design and material. I can only assume the 37mm will do the same.
The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is limited to 20 pieces, which, given the complexity of the watches and the length of time it takes to craft and assemble the movement, is not bad. If you’re not aware, Bvlgari has three master watchmakers qualified to work on minute repeaters, which is about 33% of the world’s total at this level. So when we say Bvlgari has expertise in this area, we mean it.
Initial Thoughts
When I heard Bvlgari was releasing a smaller 37 mm Octo Finissimo range, I was eager to see what the maison would come up with as its first foray into this collection. I’m glad that it has gone with titanium primarily, with the added weight of the 18k yellow gold piece. While I’m not a massive fan of full titanium watches, in the Octo Finissimo, which is a lighter watch in general, I think it makes sense.
The other aspect I like is that the 40mm Octo Finissimo has a large case surface area, and it requires a slightly larger, flatter wrist to pull it off. I found this wearing the 40 mm steel version last year. In a 37 mm variant, it will open the Octo Finissimo up to a broader clientele, as it caters for a wider section of the market – both guys who have smaller wrists and now the female market as well.
References & Specifications
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Titanium
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 104351 (Satin Finished) / 104089 (Sandblasted) |
| Dimensions | 37 mm x 6.45 mm thick |
| Case | Titanium case, satin-brushed or sandblasted |
| Crystal | Sapphire Crystal |
| Dial | Opaline titanium dial with rhodium-plated hands and indexes. |
| Caseback | Titanium with sapphire crystal |
| Movement | BVF 100 manufacture automatic winding ultra-thin movement with a micro-rotor. Hand-decorated Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing. |
| Functions | Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds. |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30M / 3 ATM |
| Bracelet | Satin-brushed / sandblasted titanium bracelet with integrated folding buckle with push buttons |
Australian Retail Price: A$28,200 (Satin Finished) / A$26,900 (Sandblasted)
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 18k Yellow Gold
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 104120 |
| Dimensions | 37 mm x 6.45 mm thick |
| Case | 18k yellow gold, satin finished |
| Crystal | Sapphire Crystal |
| Dial | Yellow Gold dial with yellow gold-plated hands and indexes. |
| Caseback | 18k Yellow Gold with sapphire crystal |
| Movement | BVF 100 manufacture automatic winding ultra-thin movement with a micro-rotor. Hand-decorated Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing. |
| Functions | Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds. |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30M / 3ATM |
| Bracelet | Satin-brushed 18k yellow gold bracelet with integrated folding buckle with push buttons |
Australian Retail Price: A$77,200
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Titanium Minute Repeater
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 104120 |
| Dimensions | 37 mm x 6.85 mm thick |
| Case | Titanium sandblasted case |
| Crystal | Sapphire Crystal |
| Dial | Opaline titanium dial, rhodium grey-plated hands and openworked indexes |
| Caseback | Titanium with sapphire crystal |
| Movement | BVL 362 manufacture manual winding ultra-thin movement with a minute repeater |
| Functions | Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small seconds & Minute Repeater with two hammers. |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30M / 3ATM |
| Bracelet | Sandblasted titanium bracelet with integrated folding buckle with push buttons |