A long-requested case shape has made its return to the Seiko catalogue, decked out in glorious enamel!
It’s no secret that Seiko has its fair share of fans. Given how ubiquitous the brand is, however, it’s still surprising how neatly organised most self-professed ‘Seikophiles’ are. If there’s any group of watch lovers I wouldn’t want to challenge to a trivia contest, it’s them—but only if the Japanese powerhouse is the subject.
Having so many different sects of Seiko fandom means that almost every piece the brand produces has its own cult following. One example is the Seiko Ref. SPB049, which upon its 2017 release blew the minds of many Seikophiles by introducing the tonneau case to the modern Seiko lineup. That watch’s time, however, has long since passed, and fans have clamoured for its return ever since.
Well, I have some good news for any Seikophiles reading this: the wait is over. Hot on the heels of their 145th Anniversary quartet, Seiko has unveiled a new tonneau-case addition to the Presage line, the SPB537J. For those unfamiliar, tonneau cases are often prized for their unusual shape. We already did an extensive two-part series on watch case shapes, so I’ll borrow a quote from my fellow writer Sam to explain exactly what a tonneau case is:
“The Tonneau shape gets its name from the French for “barrel.” It is an elongated lozenge-type shape with horizontal flat edges at the top and bottom, almost like a stretched-out cushion shape. The design of the case meant that the dial was a bit unbalanced compared to the standard square or circular designs, as the display was getting “pulled” from either end.“
Watch Education: Watch Case Shapes And Their History, Part Two
Thanks, Sam! In short, the tonneau case is a rarity in the industry, often associated with watches of a certain panache. So, to see it reappear in the Presage lineup is hardly surprising; the collection has always prioritised elegance, regardless of price point.
The new SPB537J is encased in stainless steel, measuring 35.9mm in diameter, 46mm in length, and 12.5mm in thickness. If you’re used to rounded watches, 35.9mm might sound a tad small, but don’t worry: most tonneau watches, like their square-shaped cousins, wear much larger than the width suggests. It’s safe to say this watch has universal wearability.
Like the Presage Classic 145th Anniversary SPB538J, the new tonneau Seiko Presage draws its design inspiration from the iconic Timekeeper Type 17, produced by the brand in 1895. With a glossy white enamel dial, classical painted Roman numerals, and a railway-track minute scale, it directly echoes the heritage pocket watch. Complete with blue leaf hands, a slightly recessed 24-hour subdial, and a five-link bracelet, it strikes a great balance between old-world design and contemporary appeal.
The beating heart of the watch is the Calibre 6R5H, which provides a solid three-day (72-hour) power reserve. Beating at the familiar 3Hz (21,600vph) typical of most Seiko movements, it also drives the 24-hour indicator subdial. As much as I would have liked to believe the watch had a GMT complication, the 24-hour indicator is far simpler, merely showing which half of the day it is.
My Thoughts
Admittedly, I’m at a bit of a crossroads with this watch. Somehow, I seem to feel this way about a lot of Seiko models. There’s a lot to love, of course: the return of the tonneau case is cause for celebration, and Seiko has long been praised as one of the best dial makers in the watch industry. The movement is impressive in its own right, offering strong specifications without significantly inflating the price.
But by the same token, I have my reservations. I often wonder why Seiko puts so much text on their dials, or why they include the 24-hour indicator. The latter, in particular, isn’t to my personal taste. While it’s visually appealing, it’s functionally unnecessary if you just check the sun outside.
But again, that’s just my take. All in all, it’s another impressive feather in the cap of a brand that already has plenty. The additions, while debatable, are largely inconsequential. Still, they do give the eyes more to enjoy — and if you’re not looking at your watch, then what are you doing with it?
Reference: SPB537J
Specifications
- Dimensions: 35.9mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 12.5mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: White enamel with blue accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 6R5H with 24-hour indicator complication
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Five-link steel bracelet with butterfly clasp