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For the first time, OMEGA brings James Bond and Spectre together in a six-watch Seamaster Diver 300M collection.

One of the most prolific relationships between a watchmaker and a fictional character has been OMEGA and James Bond. This relationship first began in 1995 with GoldenEye, when Pierce Brosnan wore the OMEGA Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Ref. 2541.80. Every Bond film since then has featured an OMEGA Seamaster. With a relationship that has lasted more than three decades, it’s safe to say that OMEGA and James Bond have shared a unique history together.

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OMEGA’s Diver 300M model in particular is a significant timepiece in this partnership. The collection itself was first launched in 1993, just two years prior to becoming Bond’s iconic watch. The Diver 300M had distinctive characteristics as well, from the wave motif dial and skeletonised hands to the helium escape valve and diving bezel, design elements that have made this collection instantly recognisable.

Now, OMEGA is expanding the Bond story while venturing into new territory that hasn’t been explored before. For the very first time, Spectre gets equal presence alongside James Bond in a complete collection. There are six watches being presented in total, split evenly between three James Bond editions and three Spectre models. However, the collection is really presented as two standalone watches plus two limited-edition two-watch sets.

OMEGA has built the collection around the idea of duality: Bond represents duty, discipline and loyalty, while Spectre represents independence, self-interest and freedom from those very constraints. That itself is what makes this collection interesting and so very different from previous James Bond editions. Despite this good-versus-evil concept, mechanically and architecturally, they all start from the same modern Diver 300M platform.

The Familiar Diver 300M Takes Two Different Sides

All six models in this new James Bond x Spectre collection retain the familiar 42mm diameter and 50mm lug-to-lug dimensions of the Seamaster Diver 300M, with the stainless steel models measuring 14.23mm thick and the platinum-gold editions increasing slightly to 14.29mm. The six different models also keep the signature design of OMEGA’s Diver 300M intact, such as the twisted and scalloped lug architecture, crown guards, and manually operated helium escape valve at 10 o’clock.

The stainless steel editions feature textured bezels presented in two different executions, with the Bond edition using a grey-toned Grade 5 titanium bezel, while the Spectre edition uses black zirconium-oxide ceramic. The unidirectional rotating bezels feature a diving scale laser-ablated in positive relief, while the dot at 12 o’clock is filled with white Super-LumiNova. This gives the Bond edition a brighter, more contrasting aesthetic, while the Spectre edition, synonymous with the villainous organisation in the films, receives a darker and more sinister appearance.

The Collection

James Bond Stainless Steel Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004

The first of the six models in the latest James Bond x Spectre collection is the stainless steel James Bond reference, and visually, it’s the more traditional Seamaster aesthetic in this collection. It uses a dark blue aluminium dial with laser-engraved waves, instantly recalling the blue wave dials associated with the Diver 300M since the Brosnan era.

As mentioned previously, OMEGA uses a Grade 5 titanium bezel insert for this Bond edition, and with its textured aesthetic, it gives the bezel a more metallic and technical appearance against the blue dial.

Looking at the dial more closely, at 12 o’clock we can see that the normal rectangular hour marker has been replaced by the Bond family coat of arms, which gives this James Bond edition a unique reference that isn’t immediately recognisable from across the room. This isn’t the first time either that OMEGA has used these kinds of details on its James Bond references, as the brand previously used the crest on the 2019 On Her Majesty’s Secret Service anniversary Seamaster.

The skeletonised hands and hour markers remain relatively conventional and, as expected, are filled with a generous amount of Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. From the outer appearance, the 007 branding has been kept relatively minimal, with only the 12 o’clock hour marker indicating the link back to James Bond. However, turn the watch over and the biggest Bond-specific element appears. The sapphire caseback reveals Calibre 8806 with a rhodium-plated gun-barrel decoration on the rotor, referencing the famous opening sequence of the films.

Spectre Stainless Steel Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023

The Spectre edition, on the other hand, takes a deliberately opposite aesthetic approach to the James Bond edition. The Spectre edition features a black ceramic bezel ring along with a blackened grained dial, which creates a far darker aesthetic fitting for the villainous organisation that is Spectre.

An important detail of the Spectre stainless steel edition is that it doesn’t use the traditional laser-engraved Seamaster waves, and instead features a grained surface that gives the dial a slightly rougher texture, while also immediately standing apart from both the James Bond edition and the conventional Diver 300M models in OMEGA’s lineup.

Unlike the James Bond edition, there is actually no reference to Spectre on the dial. OMEGA has deliberately kept the villain branding hidden, which makes this the more subtle and discreet model of these two standalone timepieces.

The reference to Spectre lies in the caseback, which remains hidden on the wrist. Just like the organisation itself, the design is on point with this model. Spectre is known for hiding in plain sight, and without any references on the dial, you may be none the wiser! However, turn the watch around and what immediately stands out is the winding rotor, which now incorporates the black Spectre octopus emblem.

Both stainless steel models are presented on a stainless steel mesh bracelet, which has become a prominent part of OMEGA’s modern Seamaster Diver 300M design. For these models, the mesh bracelet is given a fully brushed finish, which gives the watches a sportier appearance while allowing the different James Bond and Spectre dials to take centre stage.

James Bond Limited-Edition Set
(Steel Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.005 + Platinum-Gold Ref. 210.83.42.20.03.001)

Outside of the two standard stainless steel editions, OMEGA is also presenting two limited-edition sets. The first is the James Bond Limited Edition set, with only 77 sets being produced. Each set contains two watches: a stainless steel model on a mesh bracelet and a platinum-gold model on a blue leather strap. Neither of these models can be bought separately and is available only through the set itself.

The limited-edition steel model is essentially the standalone stainless steel Bond watch; however, it gains an individual numbered plate at the 9 o’clock position, along with the limited-edition designation.

The hero piece in this set is unquestionably the platinum-gold model. OMEGA’s platinum-gold alloy is approximately 95% platinum and 5% gold, with the watch weighing in at roughly 203.7 grams. This makes it a substantially different proposition compared to the steel edition.

The platinum-gold model also gets a polished blue ceramic bezel, with the diving scale now being executed in platinum. The dial itself is 18K white gold and is finished with a gradient blue PVD treatment over the engraved gun-barrel pattern. This gives the platinum-gold model a lot more detail, and rightly so, as these are the more premium editions in the entire collection. Turn the watch over and what you immediately notice is that the Bond emblem on the winding rotor is now upgraded to 18K Moonshine Gold, which stands out beautifully against the Calibre 8806 movement.

Spectre Limited Edition Set
(Steel Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.029 + Platinum-Gold Ref. 210.83.42.20.01.001)

The Spectre Limited Edition set follows the same path as the James Bond edition, once again being limited to only 77 numbered sets. Each set contains a limited-edition stainless steel Spectre and a platinum-gold Spectre model together, and once again, neither model is available individually. The limited-edition steel Spectre follows the standalone black Spectre aesthetic; however, it now adds the limited-edition numbered plate at 9 o’clock.

Just like the James Bond Limited Edition set, the platinum-gold Spectre model is where things get a lot more interesting. The timepiece features an 18K white gold dial, which receives a dark grey to black gradient PVD treatment over an intricate octopus-inspired dial pattern. The polished black ceramic bezel of the Spectre edition now also gets a platinum diving scale, while the watch is paired with a black leather strap.

This model has a far more sinister-looking execution compared to the blue Bond platinum-gold model. The caseback gets the same treatment, however, with the Spectre emblem on the rotor executed in 18K Moonshine Gold, which for this Spectre edition creates a nice contrast against the otherwise dark movement decoration.

Both sets receive several extra accessories, such as a NATO strap, strap tool, cufflinks, cord bracelet, loupe, travel pouch, card holder and certificate. The Bond Limited Edition set receives 007-engraved NATO keepers and a blue travel pouch, while the Spectre Limited Edition set features Spectre-branded strap keepers, matching cufflinks and cord bracelet, and a black leather travel pouch.

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806

All six models use OMEGA’s automatic Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806. The movement operates at a slightly unusual beat rate of 3.5Hz (25,200 VpH) and features OMEGA’s Co-Axial escapement and a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring. It also delivers a decent power reserve of approximately 55 hours from a single barrel.

This is a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, which means that the movement has been tested for magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss. The accuracy of the movement has also been tested to 0/+6 seconds per day. The movement features no date complication either. While some may argue against this, I think it suits these Bond editions nicely, presenting a more balanced and relatively clean design compared with the date-equipped Diver 300M.

Initial Thoughts

Before I get into the watches, I have to admit OMEGA has done a good job of executing the website and how you come across each individual model. Firstly, you have to choose three different “symbols”, and based on what you have chosen, it leads you to your watch. Whether that be wearing a tuxedo, on a beach sipping martinis, or taking a more sinister approach, each choice leads you to one of the two stainless steel editions.

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When it comes to these releases, however, OMEGA hasn’t gone for a technically revolutionary Seamaster release here. The case and Calibre 8806 are all familiar components of the Diver 300M collection, so the success of this latest James Bond-inspired collection comes down to how well it has been executed.

What is immediately noticeable is the amount of restraint used in the dial aesthetic, especially on the steel models. With the Spectre model, I can completely understand this, as it is perfectly in line with the organisation itself, being one that flies under the radar and blends in with the crowd. However, in contrast to this, I would have preferred to see the James Bond edition feature a few more references to the iconic 007 character, especially within the dial itself.

I do, however, like that OMEGA has given the Spectre edition just as much presence as the Bond editions themselves, as OMEGA has never previously given Bond’s enemy equal billing in an entire watch collection. The Bond edition has also been created to be deliberately nostalgic, with the use of blue aluminium, waves and the family crest connecting the watch back to more than 30 years of Bond and the Seamaster Diver 300M.

While the stainless steel editions feature a more restrained design, the platinum-gold watches in the limited-edition sets are where OMEGA really lets loose, allowing the concept of the two different sides to become much more theatrical. From the use of precious metal and white gold patterned dials to platinum bezel scales and Moonshine Gold movement details, these editions take the Bond and Spectre identities to another level!

Reference: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Edition (Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.004)

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $13,575

Availability: Available from Omega boutiques, or head online to Omegawatches.com.au

Reference: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre Edition (Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.023)

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $13,575

Availability: Available from Omega boutiques, or head online to Omegawatches.com.au

Reference: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Limited Edition Set (Refs. 210.30.42.20.03.005 & 210.83.42.20.03.001)

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $141,700

Availability: Limited to 77 numbered sets. Each set contains both the stainless steel and platinum-gold James Bond models, which are not available individually. Available from Omega boutiques, or head online to Omegawatches.com.au

Reference: OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Spectre Limited Edition Set (Refs. 210.30.42.20.01.029 & 210.83.42.20.01.001)

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $141,700

Availability: Limited to 77 numbered sets. Each set contains both the stainless steel and platinum-gold Spectre models, which are not available individually. Available from Omega boutiques, or head online to Omegawatches.com.au