I’ve had the chance to take the newly redesigned Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase for review to see how the subtle refinements elevate this complicated favourite!
What We Love
- Refined, less cluttered dial design
- Exceptional complications for the price
- Beautifully matched blue leather strap
What We Don’t
- Limited 30m water resistance
- Substantial thickness for smaller wrists
- Busy display may not be to everyone’s liking.
Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10
- Value For Money: 9/10
- Design: 9/10
- Wearability: 9/10
- Build Quality: 8.5/10
There are few watches that bring together Longines’ classical design language and mechanical expertise as completely as the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase. This is one of my favourite Longines models, and I have finally had the opportunity to review the latest evolution of one of the brand’s most iconic timepieces.
Longines first introduced the Master Collection in 2005 to showcase its traditional watchmaking expertise through an entirely mechanical collection. It was created as a meeting point between the brand’s classical elegance and its ability to produce increasingly complicated mechanical timepieces. This distinguished the Master Collection from Longines’ sportier models through its more traditional dial designs, decorative finishing, and mechanical complications.
Within the Master Collection sits the Chrono Moonphase, one of its most complicated timepieces, combining a chronograph with various calendar indications and a moonphase display. However, Longines already had a rich history of producing watches with these functions. During the early 20th century, the brand created pocket watches that combined chronograph, calendar, and moonphase indications. One important example from 1911 brought together a chronograph, quarter repeater, full calendar, and moonphase display.
The modern Chrono Moonphase continued this philosophy by presenting several mechanical functions within one beautifully balanced timepiece. While it does not have a direct lineage to a single historical model, it is heavily influenced by Longines’ early work, carrying the brand’s tradition and history into the modern era.
Over the years, Longines has continued to evolve the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase through movement upgrades and new size and colour variations. Its Valjoux-based architecture was progressively refined into the Longines-exclusive L687 column-wheel calibre, which later gained a monocrystalline silicon balance spring and an increased 66-hour power reserve.
The design also received subtle updates, with Longines introducing a larger 42mm variant alongside the existing 40mm model. The dial options expanded beyond traditional silver to include sunray blue, black, and anthracite grey. However, despite these additions, the core case shape, hands, and dial layout remained largely unchanged until this latest 2026 release.
For 2026, Longines has redesigned the entire Master Collection, with these changes also transforming the appearance of the Chrono Moonphase. The case is now offered in a 41mm size, sitting neatly between the previous 40mm and 42mm models. It also receives a new concave bezel, while removing the dial flange creates a more open display. In my opinion, this is exactly what the Chrono Moonphase needed given the amount of information presented across its dial.
Initial Thoughts
Having already handled the previous-generation Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase, I had high expectations going into this review. As mentioned, this is one of my favourite Master Collection models because it ticks many of the right boxes for me as a fan of mechanically complex timepieces and vintage aesthetics. When I first held the new Chrono Moonphase, what immediately stood out was how much less busy it appeared, which is a significant improvement for a watch displaying so much information.
Positioning the pointer-date scale at the outermost edge of the dial and spacing it more evenly reduces the clutter, giving the display more room to breathe. However, the complexity remains what makes this model stand out. The combination of a chronograph, complete calendar, pointer date, and moonphase continues to be its main attraction.
A More Refined 41mm Profile
Longines presents the redesigned Master Collection Chrono Moonphase in a 41mm case measuring 13.80mm thick and 48.60mm lug-to-lug. For reference, the previous Chrono Moonphase was offered in 40mm and 42mm sizes, with a thickness of approximately 14.3mm. This new rendition sits neatly between the two while introducing a much more refined design, making it one of the best Chrono Moonphase models to date, in my opinion.
While 41mm is an ideal size for a watch of this calibre, it is the 48.60mm lug-to-lug distance that makes it so wearable. I loved its wrist presence and how it never felt overbearing on my 16cm wrist. At 13.80mm thick, it certainly does not fly under the radar, nor does it disappear once worn. Considering the number of complications and functions it carries, it should not.
While the design remains elegant, this is still a chronograph with multiple calendar indications, and I personally enjoy these watches having some substance on the wrist.
The watch’s elegant aesthetic begins with its case. Polished surfaces extend across the case, lugs and chronograph pushers, giving the timepiece a luxurious presence on the wrist. These surfaces also reflect the light beautifully as the watch moves between different angles.
The newest addition to the refined Chrono Moonphase case is the concave bezel. It curves inward towards the sapphire crystal, creating a smoother transition into the dial. Its relatively narrow surface also reduces the amount of visible metal surrounding the display. Combined with the removal of the outer dial flange, this makes the dial appear larger and more open, which is especially beneficial for a timepiece presenting so many complications and functions.
Complexity With Room To Breathe
The Longines Chrono Moonphase has always been a personal favourite of mine, as it presents numerous complications within a beautifully arranged and visually balanced dial. Many of the elements that made it a standout within the brand’s chronograph line have been retained in this refined Master Collection model. However, several subtle changes make the dial feel less cluttered than those of its predecessors.
The silver dial is decorated with a newly developed barleycorn pattern, immediately giving the watch a classical aesthetic. Rather than leaving the dial flat, this textured surface creates greater depth, adds character, and interacts subtly with the light. The three subdials feature snail finishing, distinguishing them from the surrounding barleycorn pattern while adding another layer of detail and refinement.
While this watch certainly packs plenty of functionality into one dial, I love how beautifully everything is organised through its vertical subdial arrangement. At 6 o’clock, the subdial combines the 12-hour chronograph counter with the moonphase display.
At 9 o’clock, the outer scale provides the 24-hour indication, while the inner display shows the running seconds. Finally, the 12 o’clock subdial houses the 30-minute chronograph counter alongside the day and month apertures.
Balancing this 6-9-12 layout is the Longines logo at 3 o’clock, giving the dial a well-proportioned quadrant-style arrangement. The date is displayed around the outer edge and indicated by a separate pointer hand. The various hands and applied Arabic numerals are finished in blue, creating beautiful contrast against the silver backdrop. Their polished surfaces shift noticeably under changing light, appearing vivid blue from some angles and almost black from others.
The most significant change to the dial, as mentioned earlier, is the removal of the outer flange. On previous Chrono Moonphase models, the date scale was compressed onto the flat dial surface, while the angled flange displayed the minute track.
While this may appear to be a minor change, the difference between the old and new layouts is immediately noticeable. The revised design gives the date scale more room to breathe, while the minute track also feels better spaced without making the dial appear even busier.
All these elements come together beautifully to present the chronograph, calendar and moonphase functions while preserving the traditional, vintage-inspired aesthetic that made the Chrono Moonphase so appealing in the first place.
Calibre L687.5 Powers It All
Powering the new Master Collection Chrono Moonphase is the Longines-exclusive automatic Calibre L687.5. This column-wheel chronograph provides a more precise and tactile response when the pushers are engaged. Alongside the central chronograph seconds hand and its 30-minute and 12-hour counters, the movement also powers the day, month, pointer date, moonphase, and 24-hour indications.
Incorporating so many functions into a single movement highlights the complexity of the calibre and helps explain the case’s 13.80mm thickness. For me, this is also what makes the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase such a compelling proposition, as the level of mechanical complexity represents excellent value for its price.
Longines has also ensured that the movement’s performance remains impressive considering everything it delivers. Calibre L687.5 operates at 4Hz, or 28,800vph, supporting stable timekeeping and a smooth chronograph-seconds motion. However, the most impressive detail for me is its 66-hour power reserve. Many mechanical chronographs still offer around 46 to 50 hours, yet this movement delivers considerably more while simultaneously powering several additional complications. That makes the Chrono Moonphase an even more compelling proposition.
Calibre L687.5 is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing an automatic winding rotor decorated with Geneva stripes, the Longines name, and a cut-out winged-hourglass emblem. Beneath the rotor, perlage finishing across the movement plate and bridges adds another layer of visual detail to the caseback.
How Does The Chrono Moonphase Wear?
On my 16cm wrist, the 41mm case gives the Chrono Moonphase a strong and substantial presence. Its 13.80mm thickness is noticeable, but this is something I personally enjoy, as it gives the mechanical prowess inside a sense of substance on the wrist. Rather than feeling unnecessarily bulky, its dimensions remind you that several calendar complications are operating alongside the chronograph.
This makes the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase feel more like a substantial mechanical instrument than a conventional dress watch with a chronograph complication. This is exactly what appeals to me about the timepiece, as the numerous indications across the dial immediately reveal just how mechanically intricate it is.
The 48.60mm lug-to-lug distance is what makes the watch so wearable on my slimmer wrist while also accommodating a broad range of wrist sizes. Combined with the curved lugs, it keeps the 41mm case relatively controlled. Although the watch will not disappear beneath a cuff, I would not expect it to, as its visual presence is an important part of the Chrono Moonphase’s personality.
Although the watch’s proportions feel contemporary, its design gives the timepiece a traditional, vintage-inspired appearance. From the curved case silhouette and polished surfaces to the applied Arabic numerals and sharply defined blued-steel hands, it recalls the styling of classical early 20th-century watches. This character is further strengthened by the three-register layout and traditional pointer-date display.
The contrast between the silver backdrop and blued elements is particularly striking on the wrist. While the silver dial naturally catches the eye, it is how its various elements come together that leaves you wanting a closer look. The new barleycorn pattern enhances the model’s visual appeal, while the polished hands shine beautifully under changing light.
The latest Chrono Moonphase is offered with two different strap options. The first is a five-link stainless-steel bracelet featuring mixed finishes that add to the watch’s character. Its central links receive a vertical satin-brushed finish, contrasting neatly against the polished outer links while providing clear visual separation.
The second option is a blue alligator-leather strap with a calf-leather lining. For me, this is the configuration I would choose for the Chrono Moonphase. Its dressier character feels far more consistent with the polished case and traditional dial styling than the stainless-steel bracelet. The dark blue colour also connects beautifully with the Arabic numerals, hands, and moonphase display.
The leather strap also allows the detailed dial to remain the visual focus on the wrist while removing some of the weight compared with the bracelet. This makes the substantial case feel better balanced and easier to wear for extended periods. While the bracelet provides greater everyday versatility, the leather strap gives the watch a classier, more traditional appearance and, in my opinion, a better overall wearing experience.
Final Thoughts
Having always been fond of the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase, this redesigned evolution is a welcome improvement in my book. Longines has recognised that the original formula did not require a complete overhaul, but rather a series of subtle refinements to make it even better.
While the Monopusher is the new addition to the Master Collection and rightly deserves the attention it is receiving, overlooking the Chrono Moonphase would be a mistake. Its combination of chronograph, complete calendar and moonphase indications remains the defining reason why this timepiece deserves serious consideration.
For me, the blue alligator-leather strap is easily the stronger Chrono Moonphase configuration. Visually, it breaks up the stainless steel and allows the case and dial to take centre stage. It also reduces the watch’s overall weight, making its 41mm by 13.80mm case more comfortable over extended periods. That said, the bracelet is the more versatile and durable choice. It can be paired with a broader range of outfits and is better suited to Australia’s hotter climate, which is just around the corner.
Few alternatives combine this level of mechanical complexity, visual character and the reputation of an established Swiss watchmaker so effectively. With a starting price of AU$6,375, there are also few models capable of rivalling the value offered by the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase.
References & Specifications:
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| References: | 41mm Stainless Steel – Leather Strap (L2.962.4.73.2) 41mm Stainless Steel – Steel Bracelet (L2.962.4.73.6) |
| Dimensions | 41 mm x 13.80 mm thick; 48.60 mm lug-to-lug |
| Case Material | Stainless steel with concave bezel, winged-hourglass crown and transparent sapphire caseback |
| Case Back | Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on both sides |
| Dial | Silver barleycorn-patterned dial with nine applied blue Arabic numerals, snailed subdials and chapter ring |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides |
| Movement | Longines-exclusive automatic column-wheel Calibre L687.5 operating at 4Hz (28,800vph) |
| Power Reserve | 66-hour power reserve |
| Water Resistance | 3 bar (30 metres) |
| Bracelet | Blue alligator-leather strap or five-link stainless-steel bracelet with triple-folding safety clasp, push-piece opening and micro-adjustment |
Australian Retail Price: AUD $6,375 (Either Leather Strap or Bracelet)
Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques and authorised retailers, or head to Longines.com.au
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