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Longines evolves its signature collection through refined proportions, expanded sizing, and its first Master Collection Chrono Monopusher.

Introduced more than 20 years ago, the Longines Master Collection has always embodied classical sophistication while showcasing the brand’s heritage and watchmaking expertise. Longines first introduced the collection in 2005 as a meeting point between traditional elegance and mechanical watchmaking. Its design brought together historical Longines elements with the versatility expected from a modern dress-watch collection.

Over the next two decades, the Master Collection became one of the clearest expressions of the brand’s modern identity, featuring everything from simple three-hand watches to chronographs and triple-calendar models. One defining feature that remained throughout this evolution, however, was the Arabic numeral design inspired by the Longines Weems Second-Setting Watch of 1928.

For this 2026 update, Longines has completely reworked the Master Collection for both men and women. The redesign keeps its classical foundations intact while enhancing the proportions, visual depth, wearability, and overall refinement. Alongside these updates is one significant addition: the Chrono Monopusher, which appears in the Master Collection for the first time.

Longines Master Collection Three-Hand Models: 30mm and 34mm

Starting off the new Master Collection are the ladies’ three-hand models, now presented in either 30mm or 34mm case sizes. The 30mm model measures 9.10mm thick, while the 34mm edition is only slightly thicker at 9.30mm. Longines offers both sizes in stainless steel or two-tone yellow- and rose-gold-capped executions. The two-tone models pair a steel case with a gold-capped bezel and solid 18-carat gold crown.

Beyond the different material executions, the case has also been redesigned with a concave bezel, which Longines states “introduces a more fluid and contemporary profile while enhancing comfort on the wrist.” The bracelets follow the same refined approach, with either a five-link stainless-steel design featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces or a two-tone execution that beautifully complements the case. Both now feature shorter, redesigned links which, together with the clasp’s micro-adjustment system, should articulate more naturally around smaller wrists.

Depending on the case material, the models also receive different dial aesthetics. The stainless-steel editions feature cool, frosted blue sunray dials complemented by rhodium-plated, sword-shaped hands, giving them a more contemporary appearance.

The two-tone models, on the other hand, lean further into elegance and luxury, using mother-of-pearl dials for a softer and more decorative presentation.

The core element shared between the stainless-steel and two-tone models is the use of eleven Top Wesselton diamond indexes placed within rounded settings. These diamonds add further shine and brilliance to the icy-blue dial while naturally enhancing the elegance of the mother-of-pearl versions. Although the various ladies’ three-hand models share the same underlying architecture, their different materials, case sizes and dial finishes give each watch a distinctive personality.

Perhaps unexpectedly, Longines has used two different calibres across the 30mm and 34mm models. Inside the 30mm editions is the compact automatic Calibre L592.5. Operating at 4Hz, or 28,800vph, it offers a 45-hour power reserve that remains sufficient for daily wear.

The larger 34mm models, on the other hand, feature Longines’ automatic Calibre L888.5. This movement operates at a lower frequency of 3.5Hz, or 25,200vph, but compensates with a longer 72-hour power reserve. Every variation within the newly refined ladies’ Master Collection features a sapphire caseback, through which these automatic calibres can be admired.

Longines Master Collection Three-Hand Models: 39mm and 41mm

The larger men’s three-hand models share the same design architecture as the ladies’ editions and are available in 39mm and 41mm case sizes. The 39mm version measures just 9.05mm thick, making it the slimmest model in the newly redesigned Master Collection. The 41mm edition is slightly thicker at 9.50mm, giving it greater presence on the wrist.

Unlike the ladies’ models, both sizes are offered exclusively in stainless steel and feature the new concave bezel. Longines has also removed the dial flange, creating a more open appearance across both sizes. Polished finishing gives the cases an elegant aesthetic, while the anthracite alligator straps reinforce their traditional dress-watch character.

Longines offers the dials in three different colours: deep blue, silver and light blue. However, it is not only the colours that give these models depth, as each dial also features an eye-catching barleycorn pattern. Extending across almost the entire surface, this pattern creates greater visual depth and a stronger interaction with light.

The applied Arabic numerals are a signature detail of the Master Collection, having formed part of its identity since 2005. Paired with the newly designed sword-shaped hands, they give the watches a vintage appeal and the appearance of a traditional dress watch. Personally, the silver and light blue dials are the standouts, as their date windows feel more discreet while the hands and numerals remain clearly defined.

Both sizes feature Calibre L888.5, a longstanding Longines movement that has become a mainstay within the brand’s modern catalogue. It operates at 3.5Hz, or 25,200vph, while offering a substantial 72-hour power reserve that makes it well suited to daily wear.

The movement also features a silicon balance spring, providing improved resistance to magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations while supporting long-term precision and reliability. Through the sapphire caseback fitted to both sizes, the automatic winding system and decorative finishing can be viewed and appreciated.

Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase

The Chrono Moonphase has been a longstanding model within the Longines Master Collection, bringing together several functions alongside one of the brand’s signature complications: the moonphase. For this latest update, Longines has given the watch a more modern and refined design. Its stainless-steel case now measures 41mm in diameter, 13.80mm thick, and a relatively compact 48.60mm from lug to lug.

The redesigned case architecture, together, with the new concave bezel, creates a cleaner and more refined profile. As a defining trait of the Master Collection, the Chrono Moonphase features predominantly polished surfaces throughout the case, reinforcing its elegant and luxurious character. Longines offers the watch with either a blue alligator-leather strap or a five-link stainless-steel bracelet combining vertically satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

This is arguably my favourite model in the Master Collection. The polished, refined case and intricate dial details create a timepiece that feels both elegant and reminiscent of vintage watchmaking. For this latest update, Longines has preserved much of that character while creating a better balance between traditional decoration and improved readability.

The dial features a silver surface decorated with a newly developed barleycorn pattern, adding character without overwhelming its numerous indications. The signature Arabic numerals are retained and, together with the matching blued-steel hands, contrast beautifully against the textured background. Its three-register layout combines the moonphase and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, running seconds and a 24-hour indicator at 9 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter with day and month indications at 12 o’clock.

Then there is the signature pointer-date complication for which the Chrono Moonphase is known, displayed around the dial’s outer edge. What separates this dial from its predecessors is the removal of the flange that previously housed the minute scale. This creates more space and gives the display a more open appearance, reducing the sense of clutter around its perimeter.

Bringing these chronograph and calendar functions together is the Longines-exclusive automatic Calibre L687.5. This column-wheel movement operates at 4Hz, or 28,800vph, while delivering a 66-hour power reserve. Considering the number of complications powered by this calibre, that level of autonomy is certainly impressive.

Although Calibre L687.5 feels distinctly contemporary, combining chronograph, calendar and moonphase functionality, these complications have deep roots within Longines. The brand produced pocket watches carrying this combination during the early 20th century, including a highly complicated 1911 example now preserved in the Longines Museum.

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher

The final model in the redesigned Longines Master Collection is also a brand-new addition and arguably one of its most significant inclusions. The Chrono Monopusher makes its first appearance within the collection, although monopusher chronographs have featured throughout Longines’ wider history. As the name suggests, its defining feature is a single pusher integrated into the crown, controlling the chronograph’s start, stop, and reset functions.

Without separate chronograph pushers, the 41mm stainless-steel case has a cleaner and more traditional appearance that perfectly suits the identity of the Master Collection. It measures 12.60mm thick and 48.60mm from lug to lug, allowing it to accommodate a wide variety of wrist sizes. The model also features the newly introduced concave bezel, which helps soften these proportions while giving the dial a larger and more open appearance.

For me, the dial is the epitome of what this collection represents: restrained elegance. It is offered in either silver opaline with 5N rose-gold-plated numerals and hands or frosted blue with rhodium-plated details, with both featuring the same barleycorn pattern as the other redesigned Master Collection models. This is balanced by a bicompax layout, with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. What makes this model particularly interesting, however, is that it does not feature a traditional tachymeter scale.

Instead, Longines has integrated a pulsometer scale around the outer circumference, which “allows the wearer to measure the heart rate by timing a set number of beats, typically 30, and reading the corresponding pulse directly.” While its position creates a more compact dial appearance, the bicompax layout counterbalances this with a cleaner and more restrained aesthetic.

The medical functionality of the pulsometer scale strengthens the vintage inspiration behind this model, which is further enhanced by the new Longines-exclusive manual-winding Calibre L799.5. Its manually wound construction feels appropriate for a watch inspired by Longines’ early wrist chronographs. Despite this traditional architecture, the movement operates at 4Hz, or 28,800vph, while delivering an impressive 68-hour power reserve.

Initial Thoughts

The redesigned Master Collection shows that Longines was not interested in changing the collection entirely. After all, why fix something that isn’t broken? Instead, the brand has refined the range in a very welcome way, preserving what makes each model appealing while introducing subtle updates that improve both wearability and overall aesthetics.

The addition of the concave bezels and removal of the outer dial flanges are two major upgrades in my opinion, even if they appear minor on the surface. The dials now feel considerably more open, which is particularly beneficial for the Chrono Moonphase, as it reduces how visually busy the display appears.

While the three-hand models form the foundation of this range, particularly through sizes spanning 30mm to 41mm, the two chronographs best demonstrate the ambition behind the redesigned collection. The all-new Chrono Monopusher is arguably the standout, as it introduces something entirely new to the Master Collection. Its single-pusher operation, manual-winding movement and pulsometer scale create one of the strongest connections to Longines’ historic chronographs.

This redesigned Master Collection, for me, successfully broadens one of Longines’s most longstanding lines, while also reinforcing its position as one of the brand’s defining expressions of mechanical elegance!

Reference: Longines Master Collection Three-Hand Models 30mm and 34mm

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $5,200 (30mm Yellow/Rose Gold & M.O.P), AUD $5,475 (34mm Yellow/Rose Gold & M.O.P)

Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques and authorised retailers, or head to Longines.com.au

Reference: Longines Master Collection Three-Hand Models 39mm and 41mm

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $3,925 (39mm), AUD $4,100 (41mm)

Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques and authorised retailers, or head to Longines.com.au

Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $6,375

Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques and authorised retailers, or head to Longines.com.au

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AUD $5,825

Availability: Available through Longines Boutiques and authorised retailers, or head to Longines.com.au