Blancpain continues to show that with age comes experience, revising their 38mm Villeret Ultraplate models for the modern dress watch lover.
Founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, the master watchmaker’s eponymous brand is widely considered to be the oldest in the world. Over nearly three centuries, it has worn so many hats that it is almost impossible to keep track. From pioneering the modern dive watch to quietly establishing itself in the exclusive American market, and even being brought back from the brink during the Quartz Crisis, the Swatch Group brand has seen plenty of action throughout its lifetime.
While age is not always a guarantee of experience, Blancpain has it in spades, maintaining a stalwart position in the industry through its incredible mechanical offerings. Central to its dress watch collection is the Villeret line, named after the Swiss town in which the brand was founded.
Of particular note is the Villeret Ultraplate, which was introduced in the 1980s in open defiance of the surging popularity of quartz watches at the time. Defined by its minimalist aesthetic and ultra-thin profile, it became a sensation that has remained a brand staple ever since.
In recent years, the Villeret Ultraplate has most commonly been offered in a 40mm case size, but as watch trends begin to shift smaller, so too does the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate. Continuing the evolution that began with the 2020 releases, the brand has unveiled four new 38mm models for the collection, redefining them as elegant yet transitional timepieces built for any occasion.
Slim Reaper
Sized at 38mm in diameter, the new Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate models occupy the universal sweet spot for watch wearers of any gender. Combined with a 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement and an ultra-slim 8.35mm thickness, they sit comfortably on the wrist while preserving the elegant, unobtrusive profile expected of a traditional dress watch. The ultra-thin construction allows the watch to disappear effortlessly beneath a shirt cuff, remaining present without ever demanding attention.
Of the four new references, just one is presented in 18k red gold, while the others are crafted from stainless steel. The red gold model will certainly appeal to those seeking a more refined and elegant expression, while the three steel models are designed to complement almost any outfit. Water resistance is rated to 30 metres, though these are watches intended for the office rather than the ocean.
All new Villeret Ultraplate models are fitted with alligator leather straps, available in beige, anthracite, honey or olive green tones depending on the chosen reference. Blancpain has also gone the extra mile to ensure comfort and security, pairing every strap with a material-matched butterfly clasp and buckle combination.
Complete with tool-less interchangeability, the wearing experience provided by the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm underscores its traditional heritage while embracing modern convenience.
A Bowl of Salmon
While largely unchanged from recent Villeret Ultraplate designs, this new capsule of watches carries over the subtle refinements introduced in previous iterations. The applied Roman numerals encircling the dial have been gently resized, while the J.B. initials continue to take precedence over the Roman numeral at 12 o’clock. The leaf hands also make a return, each featuring a thin sliver of lume for improved low-light readability.
Where I have often been critical of the exclusion of lume in sports watches, its inclusion in dress watches feels like a welcome surprise. Is it entirely necessary? No, but an added convenience, no matter how small, is always appreciated.
The most prominent of the four watches is perhaps the new salmon dial rendition of the Villeret Ultraplate. Marking a first for the collection, the dial features a sunburst finish that adds extra warmth, contrasting beautifully against the cool steel case and grey alligator leather strap. A colour-matched date window, almost unnoticeable at first glance, is the only element that interrupts the otherwise uninterrupted display.
The other three watches, including the red gold edition, feature gold-toned opaline finishes more aligned with the traditional Villeret aesthetic. Of these remaining references, it is important to note that the model featuring yellow gold numerals is available exclusively through Blancpain boutiques, making it slightly more special than the others.
Thin King
Of course, it was not just the Villeret Ultraplate’s good looks that made it such a beloved timepiece. Turning the watch around reveals an open caseback showcasing Blancpain’s own Calibre 1150.
Measuring just 3.25mm thick, the ultra-thin manufacture movement beats at a steady 3Hz (21,600VpH) while offering a remarkable 100-hour power reserve. Despite its remarkable thinness, it remains capable of automatic winding, making it one of the thinnest automatic movements currently in production.
What I find most interesting about the Calibre 1150, beyond its impressive specifications, is its historical consistency. Originally named the Frédéric Piguet 1150 (with no relation to the Piguet family of Audemars Piguet), the Calibre 1150 became a staple of both Blancpain and the wider Swatch Group.
Powering everything from Fifty Fathoms models to select Breguet references, the Calibre 1150’s heritage is among the most storied of its era, yet it rarely receives the recognition it deserves.
Initial Thoughts
The arrival of the 38mm Villeret Ultraplate reflects a broader appreciation for traditional dress watch proportions. While the 40mm Ultraplate introduced during the previous decade reflected contemporary sizing trends, Blancpain has recognised that modern watch enthusiasts increasingly value restrained dimensions over oversized wrist presence.
In that regard, the Villeret Ultraplate 38mm models excel, offering a surprisingly versatile timepiece within the often stringent confines of the ultra-thin dress watch category. Combined with the proven Calibre 1150 and Blancpain’s longstanding commitment to elegant mechanical watchmaking, the latest Villeret Ultraplate continues a philosophy that has remained remarkably consistent for more than four decades: the greatest dress watch is ultimately the one you forget you are even wearing.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | 6224N-1135-55B (Steel, salmon) 6224N-1142-55B (Steel, opaline/white gold) 6224N-A-1142-55B (Steel, opaline/yellow gold) 6224N-3642-55B (Red gold) |
| Dimensions | 38mm case diameter x 43.35mm lug-to-lug x 8.35mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel 18k red gold |
| Dial | Sunray-bushed salmon with grey accents Opaline gold-tone with white gold / yellow gold / red gold accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 1150 with date complication |
| Power Reserve | 100h |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Green / beige / grey alligator leather strap with steel folding clasp & buckle Tan alligator leather strap with red gold folding clasp & buckle |