The independent watchmakers at Chronoswiss have debuted a new version of their flagship Delphis line, inspired by Swiss glaciers.
TAG Heuer is a legacy brand that has endured many hardships. I know, you’re asking, “Why is he talking about TAG Heuer in a completely different article?” but bear with me for a second.
One of those major challenges was the Quartz Crisis, which saw the brand — then called Heuer — collapse. Naturally, this led to mass closures and job losses, including that of master watchmaker Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. Left with nothing more than a garage full of mechanical parts, he gathered his resolve and remaining passion to start a watch brand of his own. That brand, as you may have gathered, is now called Chronoswiss.
Using his decades of experience working with Heuer, Lang built Chronoswiss into the brand it is today, defying the Quartz Crisis with flagship collections like the Opus and Delphis. Though he passed away in 2023, his creative and resolute spirit still beats through every watch built by the independent brand. Adding to the legacy of Chronoswiss is this latest release: the Delphis Glacier, distilling all of the design cues of the model line into a contemporary piece inspired by Swiss glaciers.
A Cold Case
Sized in a 42mm-wide, 14.5mm-thick case, the Chronoswiss Delphis Glacier is certainly an imposing watch at first glance. This is largely thanks to the watch’s unique frame, which feels decidedly heritage-inspired. Coin-edge knurling and polishing turn the case into a satin-finished sandwich, while the large onion crown further compounds its classical nature.
However, Chronoswiss offsets the bold silhouette with a Grade 5 titanium case construction. Ultra-light, damage-resistant, and far more amenable to finishing, the titanium gives the Delphis Glacier a contemporary feel to go with its traditional lines.
This is further bolstered by the use of a black rubber strap, ending in a titanium folding clasp for maximum wearability. Water-resistant to 100 metres, the Delphis Glacier presents itself as an odd yet highly contemporary watch unlike anything else on the market.
Reading The Ice
But if the case was a lot for you to take in, just wait until you get to the dial. It’s been divided into two sections, clearly distinguished by the silver and black tones. The upper section consists of silver guilloché, executed in a consistent, arcing, wave-like pattern.
The guilloché’s only interruption is the opening at 12 o’clock, where a jump-hour aperture has been cut into the dial. It’s a spectacular finish, so much so that the blued minute hand has been hollowed out for maximum viewing pleasure at all times.
The lower section, on the other hand, features a grained, textured base plate overlaid with two curved, matte-finished open-worked bridges. This gives the watch an unprecedented level of depth, contrasted only by the blue UFO-like small seconds sub-dial.
Here, even more guilloché can be found, with a seconds hand that follows the same hollow appearance as the minute hand. Complete with blue-accented indexes across the upper white arc and five-minute incremental numerals printed across a black lower arc, the Delphis Glacier maximises its use of cool tones by deploying them sparingly.
Mechani-Cool
Turning the watch around, you get a view of the proper star of the show: the automatic Calibre C.6004, beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 55-hour power reserve. It’s a capable stat line, to be sure, but one that pales when you experience the intricacies within. Made in collaboration with La Joux-Perret, it powers the Delphis’ jump-hour and retrograde-minute complications.
For those unfamiliar, this means that both the hour and minute indications differ drastically from the rest of the watch world. The 12 o’clock display jumps at the top of each hour at the same moment the minute hand snaps back to zero.
It’s a spectacular display of timekeeping, and one that’s bound to keep you entertained on the hour, every hour. In contrast to the flamboyant dial, the movement is somewhat reserved, featuring dark ruthenium plating and classical finishes.
Initial Thoughts
Chronoswiss is such an interesting brand to us here at Watch Advice. To me specifically, it’s an unconventional story of hope in the face of insurmountable odds. One can only imagine the thought process of Gerd-Rüdiger Lang as he created his own mechanical timepieces in an age where many were throwing them to the wayside. There was little chance that Chronoswiss would succeed, let alone in the way it has, but succeed it did.
With the release of the Delphis Glacier, Chronoswiss further underscores its commitment to the unconventional philosophies of its late founder, all while providing a watch that appeals to both classic and contemporary watch lovers alike. While it might not look like the typical watch one would go out to buy, it doesn’t have to be.
Instead of trying to ingratiate itself with the ultra-luxury segment of society, or compete directly with traditional brands, it’s operating on its own plane of existence entirely; the creative musings of a man with nothing left to lose. And in that, it may be the most human watch you’ll ever come across.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | CH-1423T.1-BKSI |
| Dimensions | 42mm case diameter x 14.5mm thickness |
| Case | Grade 5 titanium |
| Dial | Silver & blue guilloché with black & blue accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. C.6004 with jump hour, retrograde minute, & small seconds complications |
| Power Reserve | 55h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black rubber strap with titanium folding clasp |