Can there ever be enough plat? The LVMH haute horlogerie brand Daniel Roth has unveiled a new version of the Extra Plat model, now in platinum!
It seems like almost every brand out there has the same MO when it comes to watchmaking. I can’t remember the last time I saw a brand that didn’t claim to “merge modern design with traditional watchmaking” in some form or another. This is hardly a bad thing; different brands pursue such ambitions to varying degrees. However, none in my mind stick out quite so prominently as the Daniel Roth watch brand.
Named after the eponymous master watchmaker, the now LVMH-owned Daniel Roth still remains one of my favourite brands of all time. Even as I wade through the ocean comprised solely of my beloved haute horlogerie brands, this one in particular still stands tall. If you’ve known me for a while, you’ll know that the Daniel Roth C187 is still considered my exit watch. If I had that, I would never need another piece again.
But while the original C187s are no longer produced, the modern catalogue still has plenty to offer the prospective watch lover. About as entry-level as you can get at Daniel Roth is the Extra Plat, offering all the brand’s beloved design features in a simple yet masterfully crafted frame of precious metal. Now three models deep, including the yellow gold Souscription and even a rose gold skeleton model, the brand has expanded the line slightly further with a new rendition in platinum.
Elliptical Fit
Set in a 38.6mm wide, 35.5mm long, and 7.70mm thick case, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Platinum sounds rather diminutive on paper. But as is the case with many timepieces, the written dimensions belie the watch’s true nature. For starters, the watch has a significant wrist presence thanks to its 950 platinum construction. Approximately 2.7 times heavier than steel, the extra platinum, pardon the pun, lends its heft and lustre to the timepiece, underscoring it as a serious piece of horology.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat’s signature case also wears far larger than normal, with the double-elliptical shape covering more wrist space than standard round cases. A fat central gadroon outlining the case further contributes to the unique silhouette and character of the watch. Completed with a beige calfskin strap and platinum pin buckle, the Extra Plat’s wearing experience stands out amongst the unfortunate sameness that challenges the dress watch crowd.
A Cut Above
Where the Souscription refreshed the original’s features and the skeleton introduced a dash of audaciousness, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Platinum tones things down with a monochrome colour palette. This is hardly boring, though. If anything, the restrained dial underscores the painstaking craftsmanship that goes into every Daniel Roth watch.
Such craftsmanship can be seen through the dial’s guilloché patterns, completed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The white gold dial is scored with guilloché en ligne, or pinstriping, across its entirety. To me, it gives the same effect as a vertically brushed dial on, say, the recent Tudor Monarch, but with far more depth and richer light play.
To contrast against the chapter ring, itself also in white gold, the pinstriping has been given an anthracite grey finish. Moving towards the chapter ring, even more guilloché can be found. This time, the brand uses filet sauté guilloché, which to me resembles the fluting you would normally see on a bezel rather than a dial.
This finish helps further differentiate the chapter ring from the greater dial, which has also been circularly brushed for further intricacy. Finally, the hands match the colour of the printed Roman numerals, with the darker tone directly contrasting against the grey and white gold sections of the dial.
A Masterful Machine
Turning the watch around reveals the open sapphire caseback, where Daniel Roth fans are greeted by a familiar sight: the Calibre DR002. A manual-wind movement, it beats at the luxury-standard frequency of 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 65-hour power reserve. For a manual watch with no seconds hand, 4Hz personally feels a little excessive, but if someone is going to fork over CHF 65,000 for one, I doubt excess is the main concern.
Beyond that, the Cal. DR002 is hardly excessive by any means, operating only hours and minutes. Regardless, it has been meticulously crafted and finished by the team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Led by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, each Cal. DR002 is finished to the absolute highest degree, going so far as to keep the architecture consistent across all models. Looking at the casebacks of the brand’s tourbillon collection, the fit and finish are almost identical in every way.
Initial Thoughts
When new watches release, particularly in the haute horlogerie space, they often run the risk of feeling like pretentious additions. There have been a few times I’ve rolled my eyes at “new” watches that are ostensibly just colour changes or material swaps. Though the same could be said for the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Platinum, my feelings differ towards this model.
Personal biases aside, the Extra Plat collection specialises within the extremely narrow ruleset dress watches face. In an environment where every addition is met with intense scrutiny, this watch manages to pull off its new look effortlessly.
Looking closer, the dizzying degree of craftsmanship is so evident that you cannot help but respect the craft. So while the C187 still holds a special place in my heart, it makes me happy to know that the Daniel Roth brand is both surviving and thriving, creating new models for both the rich collector and the wishful enthusiast alike to marvel at.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | DBBG01A1 |
| Dimensions | 38.6mm case diameter x 35.5mm lug-to-lug x 7.7mm thickness |
| Case | 950 platinum |
| Dial | Anthracite grey guilloché en ligne with brushed white gold filet sauté guilloché chapter ring |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Cal. DR002 |
| Power Reserve | 65h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Beige calfskin strap with platinum pin buckle |