De Bethune expands the DB28xs collection with the addition of the new Dark Sands, which takes the Steel Wheels look and flips it on its head!
De Bethune has introduced a new addition to its DB28 collection with the release of the DB28xs Dark Sand, a watch that takes the familiar architecture of the DB28xs Steel Wheels and gives it a darker, more contemporary identity. Compact in size and finished in matt anthracite zirconium, the latest model continues the brand’s ongoing exploration into advanced materials while maintaining the highly technical and instantly recognisable design language that has defined De Bethune for years.
For those familiar with De Bethune, the DB28 line has long represented the manufacture’s ability to merge futuristic styling with serious watchmaking. Even the centre deltoid bridge section looks familiarly like the symbol from Star Trek, with a few differences, that is. From the floating lug system to the exposed movement architecture, these watches have always stood apart from more traditional haute horlogerie offerings. With the DB28xs Dark Sand, that philosophy remains intact, only now presented through a more stealthy lens.
The centrepiece of this release is the 38.7 mm zirconium case, which comes in at just 8 mm thick. Those dimensions continue the wearability-focused approach of the DB28xs range, delivering a slimmer and more compact take on the broader DB28 family. On the wrist, the 39mm is the perfect size. Having tried the DB28xs Steel Wheels on at Geneva Watch Days in 2024, the watch hugs the wrist.
De Bethune has worked with zirconium since 2012, and the material has become a signature part of its experimentation. Chosen for its hardness, corrosion resistance, and long-term durability, zirconium also offers a unique visual quality. Here, it receives a black satin-brushed finish that gives the case a uniform matte appearance. The result is understated, technical, and highly modern, with the surface absorbing light rather than reflecting it in the usual polished manner.
This darker treatment suits the DB28xs design particularly well. The trademark crown at 12 o’clock remains, as do the floating lugs that articulate with wrist movement for improved comfort. It is one of the draw-cards to the brand, I feel. De Bethune’s patented lug system has always been one of the most functional aspects of the DB28 platform, helping larger and more sculptural cases wear with surprising ease. On a watch with these proportions, the DB28xs Dark Sand is especially comfortable on the wrist, as was my experience with the Steel Wheels.
The dial side is where the Dark Sand earns its name. Rather than a conventional dial layout, the watch presents an openworked display that reveals the movement structure beneath. This concept was already central to the Steel Wheels model, but the execution here is more dramatic thanks to the darker palette and contrasting finishes of the purple (mauve) hands and blue titanium balance wheel with white gold weights.
The baseplate is crafted from black sandblasted titanium, creating a textured surface De Bethune says is inspired by volcanic sand. It gives the watch a mineral quality and a strong sense of depth. Surrounding this is the circular satin-finished black titanium hours and minutes track, while polished mauve titanium hour markers add a subtle lift of colour. The same mauve tone is echoed in the hands, maintaining legibility while introducing some warmth to an otherwise monochromatic design.
At the centre sits one of De Bethune’s most recognisable design signatures: the deltoid-shaped bridge. Finished in anthracite tones and decorated with a barleycorn guilloché pattern, it appears suspended above the movement. Its bevelled, polished, and sandblasted edges will catch the light differently depending on angle, creating visual contrast without disrupting the clean overall aesthetic. It is a good example of how De Bethune combines hand-finishing with modern industrial styling- something I personally really like.
Turning the watch over reveals the hand-wound DB2115V13 calibre. Operating at 28,800 VpH / 4Hz, the movement is designed with performance in mind and incorporates several technical solutions developed by the manufacture over the years to do so.
Among them is a titanium balance wheel fitted with white-gold weights, helping to regulate inertia while keeping overall mass low. The movement also uses De Bethune’s proprietary balance spring with a flat terminal curve, engineered for greater chronometric stability. A silicon escape wheel improves efficiency, while a triple pare-chute shock protection system helps safeguard the movement from impact.
As said, performance is key here. The power reserve of the DB28xs Dark Sand offers six days of autonomy via a self-regulating twin-barrel system, one of De Bethune’s longstanding technical hallmarks. On the reverse side, the power reserve display is presented in linear form and finished in mauve and golden tones against an anthracite microlight backdrop. It is an easy way of seeing how much power is left in the barrels, and it adds contrast visually to the movement.
As is often the case with De Bethune, finishing appears to be a major part of the appeal here. The brand has built its reputation on combining inventive engineering with meticulous hand-executed details, and the DB28xs Dark Sand looks to continue that standard. Multiple textures, sharp bevels, contrasting surfaces, and carefully considered colour accents all contribute to a watch that rewards close inspection.
Initial Thoughts
What makes this release interesting is that it does not rely on complexity or grand complications to make an impact. Some may not love this, especially given the price tag of CHF 90,000, but this is something that I do appreciate as well as the overall aesthetic. Instead, De Bethune has focused on material science, proportion, ergonomics, and visual execution.
The just under 39 mm diameter and 8 mm thickness place it among the more wearable De Bethune references in recent years, while the muted zirconium case broadens its everyday appeal. For collectors who admire the brand’s technical identity but prefer something less overt than polished titanium blues or brighter finishing, this may be one of the strongest recent entries in the lineup.
The DB28xs Dark Sand also reinforces something De Bethune has consistently done well: evolve existing models without losing their character. The Steel Wheels foundation is clearly present in this model, yet the shift in material and colour gives this watch an entirely different mood.
With the DB28xs Dark Sand, De Bethune has delivered a fresh take on one of its most recognisable platforms. It remains technically impressive, visually distinctive, and mechanically serious, now wrapped in one of the most compelling case materials in contemporary watchmaking. Pierre Jacques and Denis Flageollet, I think I need to review this watch, please?
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specifications |
|---|---|
| Reference | DB28XSSWZ |
| Dimensions | 38.7 mm x 8mm thick |
| Case | Matte anthracite zirconium with Matte anthracite zirconium floating lugs. |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating |
| Dial | Hour and minute ring in black circular satin -finished titanium with polished purple titanium hour markers. Anthracite barrel bridge cover with barleycorn guilloché and black sandblasted, bevelled and polished chamfers. Dial background in black sandblasted titanium |
| Caseback | Matte anthracite zirconium screw – down case back with sapphire crystal with double anti – reflective coating |
| Movement | Manual-wound DB2 115V13 calibre, beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) |
| Functions | Matte anthracite zirconium screw-down case back with sapphire crystal with double anti – reflective coating |
| Power Reserve | 6 days |
| Water Resistance | 30M / 3 ATM |
| Strap | Textile/leather strap with a pin buckle in matte anthracite zirconium |