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Cartier expands the Tortue into a full collection for Watches & Wonders 2026, blending the historic shaped case with refined new design codes and precious materials!

Cartier’s long and illustrious history is filled with elegant and uniquely shaped watches. However, there are only a few that carry the same quiet significance as the Tortue, a design that has long stood as a testament to the Maison’s ability to turn form into an enduring icon.

The Tortue was first created in 1912, with its design built around a mix of curves and rigid lines. This contrast plays a big role in what gives the Tortue its unique identity. Louis Cartier designed the timepiece with a tortoise-inspired shape, hence the name Tortue, during a time when round watches were dominating the market.

While the Tortue collection has an extensive history, it has faded in and out of Cartier’s active lineup over the decades. The collection can be better thought of as a “revived” model that served connoisseurs, rather than being a constant pillar in Cartier’s lineup like the Santos or Tank. Collectors certainly loved the Tortue not just for its aesthetic appeal, but also because it housed some serious watchmaking, such as Cartier’s first chronograph in the Tortue Monopoussoir.

In 2024, the Tortue reappeared through Cartier’s Privé revival. If you may not know, Privé is Cartier’s unique collection that brings back the Maison’s historically important watches in a limited, collector-focused form. The Tortue Monopoussoir was one of my favourite releases from Cartier that year, combining stunning, elegant design with the mechanical precision of a chronograph.

Now for Watches and Wonders 2026, Cartier is bringing the Tortue back as part of a new collection. The Maison states that the watch has been “completely reimagined by the design studio,” now featuring volumes and proportions that are rounder and more generous. This can be seen through the softer, more curved lines of the case, which further enhance the collection’s overall elegant appeal.

Cartier is presenting this new Tortue collection in five versions, available in combinations of polished yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and diamond-set finishes. The fifth version is a truly unique design, as it taps into the Maison des Métiers d’Art, described by Cartier as “a unique space where tradition, innovation and creativity meet.” The Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art watch is offered in two variants, both showcasing incredible beauty through enamelling and high-jewellery construction.

Tortue Watch – Yellow Gold

The yellow gold edition of this new Tortue collection presents the case in its most raw form, with a beautiful mirror-like polished finish throughout that enhances the watch’s luxurious aesthetic and elegant appeal. The watch is paired with a black patent leather strap, while the winding crown is set in Cartier’s signature style with a sapphire cabochon.

This new Tortue collection is all about the Maison blending traditional watchmaking codes with a sleek new design. The iconic Roman numerals of the original Tortue timepieces have been preserved; however, the traditional guilloché dial pattern has now been replaced with an embossed motif that adds more relief and texture. The classic rail track has also been reworked into a line of dots, a detail that pays homage to a historic 1922 watch that featured a dotted line on the bezel. Cartier’s secret signature has also been subtly positioned within the stroke of the numeral X.

Tortue Watch – Rhodium Finish White Gold With Diamonds

Alongside the yellow gold Tortue, Cartier is also presenting three other models in precious materials. This model features a white gold case with rhodium-finish elements such as the hour and minute hands. It is offered in two case sizes: 33.4 x 26.7mm with a thickness of 7.2mm, or 26.1 x 20.9mm with a thickness of 6.9mm.

The case has been adorned with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds on the 33.4 x 26.7mm model, while the smaller 26.1 x 20.9mm case comes set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds. Paired with a white dial that features the newly designed details and a deep navy blue alligator strap, this Tortue delivers a more refined and jewellery-driven take on Cartier’s historic shaped watch design.

Tortue Watch – Rose Gold With Diamonds

Outside of the yellow gold and white gold editions, Cartier is also presenting this new Tortue collection in rose gold, giving the timepiece a warmer and more romantic expression. Just like the rhodium-finish white gold model, this version is offered in two case sizes: 33.4 x 26.7mm with a thickness of 7.2mm, or 26.1 x 20.9mm with a thickness of 6.9mm.

And just like the white gold edition, the rose gold case is adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, with the larger model featuring 48 diamonds and the smaller version set with 42 diamonds. Paired with a white dial showcasing the new embossed motif, dotted minute track, and Cartier’s hidden signature within the numeral X, the watch is completed with a shiny red alligator strap that adds a bold yet elegant contrast to the warm tones of the case.

Tortue Watch – Platinum With Diamonds

The final timepiece that forms part of this precious material set within the Tortue collection is the platinum model. This timepiece, however, features a completely different design compared to the other diamond-set editions. Described as an “ultra-precious evening version,” the platinum Tortue watch’s case is enhanced by 46 baguette-cut diamonds, a cut that has been emblematic to Cartier since 1910. The octagonal winding crown is also fitted with an inverted brilliant-cut diamond.

The dial also features a completely different aesthetic from the other core models in this collection. The iconic Roman numerals are encircled by a minute track that beautifully follows the curvature of the case. The hands are done in rhodium-plated apple shape, while the dial itself showcases a stunning rosette guilloché pattern that radiates outward from the centre in repeating curved waves. This pattern not only adds more character to the watch but also allows it to radiate with elegance alongside the diamonds as light moves across the surface.

Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art Watch (White / Yellow Gold)

For the two special limited edition timepieces of this new Tortue collection, Cartier has used their iconic Panther design. At Cartier, the Panther is everywhere. It appears on many of their timepieces, including shaped watches, “gazing mysteriously out from behind a curtain of rain”. For the design of these two timepieces, the watchmakers of the Maison des Métiers d’Art and Cartier’s design studio have given the iconic feline “even greater room for expression, extending it to the watch’s case middle.”

The dial and case of both timepieces feature a rain motif, which allows the timepieces to play with depth beautifully between the feline and the rain curtain. Cartier states regarding this design that “To make the drops, the craftsmen created tiny cavities in which they placed translucent enamel powder and gold or silver flakes. The slightly domed enamel of the drops stands in contrast to the Panther motif. Over 15 different tones were used in each piece, requiring more than 36 separate firings. It took 80 hours to enamel the dial and 50 hours to enamel the case. 3 hours were spent setting the eyes.”

The two Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art Watches are presented in either white or yellow gold, in a limited run of 100 timepieces each. These timepieces showcase the very best of this new Tortue collection, with Métiers d’Art being used to transform the shaped case and dials into a true work of art. The white gold edition features emerald eyes, while the yellow gold comes with tsavorite eyes for that added style and sparkle!

Initial Thoughts

Cartier has taken a slightly different approach with these latest Tortue timepieces. While previously it was limited to the brand’s Prive collection, referencing historic designs with subtle aesthetic variations, this new collection leans further into the elegance and jewellery-inspired design of the timepiece, rather than simply revisiting the historic design of the watch. These new models certainly feel more like a broader exploration of what the Tortue can be in a modern setting.

What I like most is that Cartier hasn’t overcomplicated the new Tortue redesign. They have given it subtle tweaks, like making the case smoother and overall curved profile, while removing certain elements of the dial and adding others to give it a fresh new look. The design still preserves the DNA of the Tortue, keeping what made it so beautiful on the wrist and instantly recognisable in the first place.

The Métiers d’Art Panthère models in particular show the Maison at its creative best, blending watchmaking, jewellery, and decorative craftsmanship in a way few brands can truly pull off. As a full collection, this feels like Cartier using the Tortue not just as a historic design, but as a canvas for elegance, creativity, and timeless style!

Reference: Cartier Tortue Watch – Yellow Gold

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: T.B.A

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Tortue Watch – Rhodium Finish White Gold With Diamonds

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: T.B.A

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Tortue Watch – Rose Gold With Diamonds

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: T.B.A

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Tortue Watch – Platinum With Diamonds

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: T.B.A

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Tortue Panthère Métiers d’Art Watch (White / Yellow Gold)

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: T.B.A

Availability: Limited to 100 models each. Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au