Arnold & Son continues to elevate Chinese Zodiac watchmaking with its sixth Perpetual Moon creation. The Year of the Horse blends celestial precision with exceptional artisanal craftsmanship in one of the brand’s most compelling releases yet!
If you have been following along with our Chinese New Year ‘Year of the Horse’ content, you would have seen some impressive creations, from Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art models, IWC Schaffhausen’s fire red dial, to Hublot and Jager-LeCoultre’s stunning artistic dials (and many more), there has been a timepiece to suit almost every watch connoisseur.
Being a watch enthusiast, it’s always fun when this time of the year rolls around, as we get to see the creativity of the brands in how they portray their own version of the year’s Chinese Zodiac. Arnold & Son is one brand that has a meaningful history when it comes to these limited edition creations. They have been releasing dedicated Chinese Zodiac timepieces for several years now, with each being a beautiful depiction of the Zodiac in art form.
Instead of using different models in their lineup as the canvas for the Zodiac creations, Arnold & Son has kept to the same base model year in year out. The Maison uses their Perpetual Moon timepiece as the main foundation, which they then imbued with the Zodiac animal through stunning artisanal techniques.
This Chinese Zodiac Year of the Horse is, of course, no different. Marking the sixth consecutive Zodiac release for the brand, the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold Year of the Horse is, in my opinion, one of their best creations yet, with the stunning depiction of the horse beautifully blending into the background alongside the Perpetual Moon complication. Creating these exclusive timepieces is certainly no easy feat, with a high level of skill and expertise required from the brand’s métiers d’art department, which is why the watch is limited to just eight pieces.
Case Design
Like the previous Chinese Zodiac creations from Arnold & Son, this latest Year of the Horse features a dazzling 18K 5N red gold case, presented in the Perpetual Moon’s signature 41.5mm × 11.67mm case size. The Perpetual Moon case is offered primarily in precious metals such as 18K red gold or 950 platinum, as these materials provide a more elegant style and luxury finish suited to high-end haute horlogerie timepieces.
Arnold & Son has refined the case design over the years, giving the Perpetual Moon a slightly tighter profile and a reduced bezel size, which places greater emphasis on the stunning dial and moon display. The timepiece also features integrated tapered lugs, providing an overall refined aesthetic presence and a comfortable fit on the wrist. What makes the case truly stand out is the beautiful, polished finishing displayed throughout the entirety of the case profile, which, when executed in 18K 5N red gold, translates to a warm, rich glow.
Dial Design
The dial of the Perpetual Moon is built primarily around the oversized moon display at 12 o’clock, spanning the entirety of the upper portion of the dial. Unlike other moon-phase complications, this one is meant to dominate visually. Another point of difference with this moon phase complication is that Arnold & Son commonly includes hand-painted constellations, notably Ursa Major (Great Bear) and Cassiopeia, which adds to the overall storytelling of this timepiece. This, then, of course, is accompanied by the stunning aventurine glass dial, which mimics the night sky.
Using this as the base, Arnold & Son then let creativity run wild (quite literally) by integrating the Chinese Zodiac with the dial, forming an incredible artwork that is storytelling rather than just motifs or visual decoration. The image depicted under the Perpetual Moon display is a horse that rears on a hilltop, as Arnold & Son put it, “a commanding silhouette carved out against a star-studded sky, surrounded by the sparks of a metaphorical fire.”
A range of artisanal work is on display here, from miniature painting, three-dimensional engraving, fine tonework, to the refined finishing the brand is known for. The horse, in 18-carat red gold appliqué, is hand-engraved, showing minute details that make the animal one of power. The red ‘dust’ surrounding O the horse is hand-painted in golden colour, but features touches of red and yellow SuperLumi-Nova for a stunning nighttime spectacle. All these elements come together to tell a story of a horse that is dynamic, powerful, and full of life.
The beautiful part of all this? It doesn’st stop there. At night is when the dial truly comes to life, with the full extent of the fire horse’s fiery, mysterious, and incandescent nature being revealed. The dial turns to full black, with only the moon and its constellations being displayed on the Perpetual Moon indicator, while only the silhouette of the horse with fire ashes surrounding it can be seen at the bottom. This illuminated display, for me, makes this one of the best ‘Year of the Horse’ timepieces this year.
Movement
The movement sitting inside this latest Zodiac masterpiece from Arnold & Son is their manually wound A&S1512 calibre. As with the rest of Arnold & Son’s movements, this A&S1512 calibre has been entirely developed, produced, decorated, assembled, adjusted, and cased up at the brand’s manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Using a double-barreled system, the movement is able to operate at 3Hz while providing a hefty power reserve of 90 hours.
What makes this movement special is the Perpetual Moon complication, as compared to other moon phase complications on the market, Arnold & Son’s creation is able to track the phases of the moon with exceptional accuracy. As stated by the brand, “The total duration of a lunar cycle is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8 seconds. Arnold & Son has approached this so closely that it would take 122 years for this movement, if constantly wound up, to accumulate a 24-hour discrepancy between the display and astronomical reality”.
The sapphire case back shows exceptional craftsmanship that almost matches the masterpiece created on the dial. Firstly, we get a secondary display of the various phases of the moon, with a hand indicating the current phase. This allows for fast and accurate adjustments of the current moon age in reality. Then we are treated to various finishing techniques, such as radial Côtes de Genève, perlage, snailing, high-polished bevels, straight brushing, and mirror polishing.
Initial Thoughts
The sixth iteration of Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon Chinese Zodiac is, in my opinion, their best yet. Sticking with the same Perpetual Moon base model year in year out has allowed the brand to refine and perfect the storytelling of the Zodiac signs, rather than having to reinvent the wheel each time. What I love about it is that it isn’t just a motif or engraving, but a full scene being played out that rewards closer inspection.
The way the Perpetual Moon complication and the aventurine dial integrate beautifully with the rearing horse is what makes ‘Year of the Horse’ so well thought out. And that, of course, is not all, as the night transformation gives the dial a brand new perspective, transforming it into a dramatic and atmospheric display that almost feels otherworldly.
Ultimately, this Perpetual Moon ‘Year of the Horse’ showcases what Arnold & Son do best: bringing together high-level watchmaking with a stunning artistic expression. This timepiece is certainly a compelling reminder that when it comes to Chinese Zodiac creations, Arnold & Son isn’t simply participating in the conversation; it continues to help define it!
Reference: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon ‘Year of the Horse’ (Ref. 1GLBR.Z11A.C1293A)
Specifications
- Dimensions: 41.5mm x 11.67mm thickness
- Case Material:18K red gold 5N with polished surfaces
- Dial: Black aventurine glass with 18-carat rose gold (5N) hand-engraved and polished finish horse. Landscape is hand-painted with gold powder and added with Super-LumiNova
- Movement: In-house manufactured, manually wound A&S1512 calibre
- Power Reserve: 90 hours
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600 VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3 bar)
- Crystal: Domed sapphire, with an anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Strap: Black alligator leather, red alligator leather lining, hand-stitched with 18K red gold (5N) pin buckle.