Vacheron Constantin is a brand that is starting to play with colours more and more, and in this release, they have given the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium a facelift!
In my humble opinion, Vacheron Constantin has done a brilliant job with the Overseas collection, making it one of the most versatile luxury watches today, partly thanks to the interchangeable straps in rubber and leather on top of the metal bracelet that comes standard with most. It means the owner can really change the look at the click of a button, making it more formal or sporty. It is essentially three watches in one.
The other aspect of Vacheron Constantin and the Overseas collection that stands out is the way the brand uses different metals and dial combinations. We saw at the end of last year, the release of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin pieces – one in white gold with a burgundy dial, the other in pink gold with a pink gold dial that were incredible in each of their own right.
While the watch community may have been split on which was the better model, one thing was for sure: the use of the burgundy dial for the white gold model was a good choice. And it seems we now have another burgundy dial to stare at, this time in the form of an Overseas Titanium Tourbillon.
Vacheron Constantin introduced the Overseas Titanium in 2019 with the introduction of the Overseas Everest, and then in 2022, we saw an Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton watch made entirely of titanium. Jump forward another two years to 2024, and Vacheron launched a titanium tourbillon model featuring a blue dial at Watches & Wonders that year. It was one of my favourite pieces from Vacheron Constantin that year, and I was all too keen to photograph it whilst at the fair.
RELATED READING: The History Of The Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Tourbillon watches are not usually made in a lightweight sports material like titanium. This material is usually reserved for your performance watches, shall we say, like dive watches. But, Vacheron Constantin bucks this trend a little, and while it does have plenty of tourbillons in precious metals, titanium is a very good alternative, especially for a watch that was made for spirit and adventure. The blue is classic, but the burgundy gives the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium a whole new look.
Slightly larger than the 41mm steel time only couterpart, the Overseas Titanium Tourbillon is done in a 42.5mm case, with a very respectable 10.39mm thickness. Having worn many variations of the Overseas, from the time only, to the Overseas Dual Time, which I reviewed last year, to the blue Overseas Titanium pictured above, I can say firsthand, you hardly notice the size difference on the wrist.
Honestly, not much has changed in this release compared to the 2024 blue dial. Vacheron has kept the Overseas’ design cues – the polished bezel in the style of the Maltese Cross, Maltese Cross-inspired bracelet, double folding clasp on the bracelet with a 4mm comfort adjustment for those warmer days (thank you, Vacheron Constantin!) and of course, the interchangeable straps that you can do yourself in a matter of seconds.
The movement is another area where Vacheron Constantin shines. Inside the new burgundy Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is the in-house automatic tourbillon calibre 2160. At just 5.65 mm thick, and a diameter of 31 mm, it is a highly versatile calibre in the fact that Vacheron is able to use it across different models to an extent, and also features a 22k gold peripheral rotor to wind the barrel, giving it a more than average 80-hour power reserve.
Vacheron is known for its movements, both in quality and finishing, and this is evident with the Calibre 2160. The use of Côtes de Genève across the bridges, hand-finished bevels, the tourbillon shank is cradled, the wheels are grained, and the screws are chamfered and polished. The Poinçon de Genève is evident as well on the movement as is on the case, signifying that the watch adheres to the strict Hallmark of Geneva standards.
However, the dial side is where the magic is, and looking at the 60-second tourbillon via the aperture, you can see the hand finishing on the tourbillon cage and the Maltese Cross, and at the centre, a gold chaton with a sunken ruby that allows it to pivot in place.
Initial Thoughts
Vacheron Constantin, outside of the high jewellery pieces and Metiers D’Arts, isn’t known for the use of colour. That is, until recently! The introduction of more colours in the dials shows that the oldest continuing watch brand is starting to branch out, giving collectors more options to suit different styles. We saw with the green dial and pink gold models that were released in 2024 as well, and these were the talk of Geneva at that year’s Watches & Wonders.
The burgundy dial pops and gives off warm red wine vibes, thanks to the deep burgundy sunburst dial. The tourbillon breaks this up somewhat, and interestingly, while I was writing this, I checked out the video on Vacheron’s site with the tourbillon rotating around. My 8-year-old daughter, who was sitting beside me, saw it, and in her words, said: “That is so satisfying!” Well, I can’t really top that sentiment, other than saying I can’t wait to get this on my wrist, so I’ll end on that note. Satisfying.
Reference: 6000V/210T-H179
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 42.5 mm x 10.39mm thick
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium, brushed and polished
- Dial: Deep red dial, sunburst satin-finished base with velvet-finished flange, 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova®
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, anti-reflective coating inside
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Movement: In-house Calibre 2160 automatic movement with peripheral rotor in 22k gold. Beating at 2.5Hz / 18,000 VpH and certified by the Hallmark of Geneva
- Power reserve: 80 Hours
- Bracelet/Strap: Titanium Grade 5 (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a titanium Grade 5 triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort adjustment system. Additional burgundy and white rubber straps included with titanium clasp