A new take on the classic ceramic DEFY Skyline Skeleton. Black ceramic meets a gold-toned, high-frequency movement for a watch that’s as technically impressive as it is visually striking. Modern, architectural, and unmistakably Zenith!
The world of ceramic watches isn’t what it used to be a decade ago. Advances in materials and manufacturing mean that ceramic timepieces are no longer niche or fragile experiments, but a genuine part of watchmaking. While crafting bold colours in ceramic can present its own challenge, the more classic tones like black, white, or blue are becoming far more achievable, allowing brands to explore the world of ceramic not as a limited edition or one-offs, but as a refined material for everyday use.
Zenith’s approach to ceramic watchmaking has been just that. We are starting to see more ceramic timepieces from the brand, which, honestly, is a refreshing take from your standard steel or precious materials. Zenith’s DEFY Skyline collection, in particular, has been the ‘playing ground’ for this material. In 2022, Zenith gave their DEFY collection a modern update, and a year later, we started to see the brand roll out the ceramic material for the collection. It first started with the standard black colour, which was the safe, everyday usability option.
Then in 2024, Zenith released one of the sportiest versions of their DEFY Skyline Skeleton yet, introducing it in a white ceramic case, with the skeletonisation framework done in bold blue colour. With white and blue complementing each other perfectly whilst offering a deep contrast, this was one of the more daring and best-looking ceramic timepieces on the market.
Last year, however, Zenith decided to top itself again in the ceramic watch game. In celebrating the brand’s 160th anniversary, they released several timepieces in the colour blue, a signature colour for the brand that’s usually reserved for special edition models. One of these watches was the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, a beautiful blue ceramic masterpiece. This was one of my favourite watch releases of the year, as I can safely say that pictures don’t do the model justice. It’s one of those watches that genuinely needs to be seen in the flesh, as photos barely capture the depth and presence of the ceramic finish.
Now, Zenith has gone back to the DEFY Skyline Skeleton to give it another bold evolution. The brand steps back in time to use the same black ceramic for the case and bracelet from the 2023 model; however, this time it has a more bold and colourful approach to the dial. Combining a black ceramic case with a gold-toned openworked movement brings a striking contrast that leans into DEY Skyline’s modern design language, while allowing the skeletonised concept to truly shine bright.
This colour combination was chosen specifically to echo the warm highlights of a city illuminated at night. For this year’s LVMH releases, Zenith’s releases are focused on the urban energy and environment, alongside the architecture built around these landscapes.
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton Case Design
When I went hands-on with the DEFY Skyline Chronograph in full blue ceramic, I was very impressed with the execution of the design. This DEFY Skyline Skeleton features the same case design, with a slightly slimmer profile measuring at 41mm x 11.6mm, with a lug-to-lug distance of approximately 46.3mm. While the blue ceramic is by no means subtle, the black ceramic case presents a more subtle version, which is offset by the bold skeletonised yellow gold dial.
What I do like about the case design of the Zenith DEFY Skyline range is the use of chamfering to highlight the geometry of the case. These chamfered parts of the case, shown on the case sides as well as the side profile of the bezel, feature a polished finish. These angled polished surfaces naturally reflect light beautifully without much effort, and against the brushed top surfaces of the case and bezel, the contrast adds depth and definition to the overall design. It’s a subtle detail, but one that really reinforces the Skyline’s sharp, architectural character on the wrist.
As with most of the DEFY Skyline ceramic models, this Skeleton version comes fitted with a matching ceramic bracelet to complete the look. The integrated bracelet features H-shaped links and central links with sharp, defined lines that mirror the geometry of the case. In the case itself, the edges of the H-links, along with the top and bottom edges of the central links, are chamfered and finished with a polished surface. The main link surfaces feature a vertical brushed finish that continues seamlessly from the case, and when paired with these subtle polished accents, the bracelet takes on a real sense of depth that comes alive as it catches the light from different angles.
For added comfort and versatility, Zenith also includes a black rubber strap that can be easily swapped in using the brand’s quick strap-change system. The rubber strap features its own distinctive design, with raised block-style elements layered over one another to create a subtle three-dimensional effect. The top surface is finished with Zenith’s signature vintage four-pointed star motif, tying the strap neatly back to the brand’s design language.
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton Dial Design
The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton features a unique architectural framework that has been specifically designed to represent the brand’s signature vintage four-pointed star logo. Depending on the colour of the skeletonised framework, the layered construction becomes more pronounced, giving the dial a strong sense of depth and a noticeably three-dimensional appearance.
This latest DEFY Skyline Skeleton features one of the boldest dial colour executions yet. Crafted with gold plating, the four-pointed star framework assumes a distinctly luxurious presence, with its warm gold tones reflecting light beautifully. Sitting beneath it is the El Primero 3620 SK movement, with its base plates finished in a lighter shade of gold. This combination gives the openworked dial a layered appearance that enhances its depth while reinforcing the watch’s modern, architectural character.
The 1/10th of a second skeletonised sub-counter at 6 o’clock has been integrated nicely with the openworked dial. With the black ring and white microsecond markings, the sub-counter stands out nicely against the gold background to make it easily legible. It’s also nice to see the gearwheel for the 1/10th-of-a-second hand fully on display, and to watch it in action. While this isn’t a fully skeletonised movement, there’s more than enough detail on the dial to keep your attention.
El Primero 3620 SK Movement
At the heart of this new Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton is Zenith’s El Primero 3620 SK movement. The El Primero, as we know, is a high-frequency movement. For this particular line, the movement has been specifically skeletonised to showcase the movement from the dial side. The movement runs at 5Hz (36,000 VpH) while providing a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
While the high-frequency calibre is in its own right an impressive feat (one that Zenith has mastered over the last 5 decades), what really amazes me is the 1/10th of a second subcounter at the 6 o’clock position. This is a world-first complication, as it operates continuously. While practical applications of a 1/10th of a second subdial may be limited, it serves as a clear demonstration of Zenith’s technical confidence, turning high-frequency performance into something you can actually see and appreciate on the dial.
Turn the watch over, and what you get is another aesthetic side to the El Primero 3620 SK calibre movement. We get a view of the balance wheel and parts of the gear train in action, with the rest of the movement being closed off in beautiful gold finishing. Two distinct finishing techniques are on display, ranging from a fine, sandblasted texture to brushed surfaces. The winding rotor has also been designed in the shape of Zenith’s modern five-pointed star logo, adding a meaningful brand signature to the movement design.
How Does It Wear?
The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton wears exactly how you would expect a modern sports ceramic timepiece to. Even with its full ceramic outfit, the 41mm case size, accompanied by the relatively slim profile, makes it feel well-balanced, sitting nicely on the wrist without feeling too top-heavy. With a lug-to-lug distance of approximately 46.3mm, it allows the case to sit flush on the wrist without protruding, especially on slimmer wrists like mine (16cm wrist size).
What also helps the wearability of the watch is the ceramic material itself. If you have ever tried on a ceramic timepiece, you would know how extremely light it feels. The bracelet itself feels non-existent when on the wrist, almost like lightweight LEGO blocks! The articulation of the bracelet links also allows it to drape naturally around the wrist, which, when sized correctly, feels much better to wear than the steel counterpart in my opinion.
While it’s certainly not as “out there” as the full blue ceramic DEFY Skyline Chronograph I had for review last year, the all-black look does still have wrist presence. Unlike black DLC versions of steel models, the full black ceramic look gives the watch more character, with subtle shine from chamfered polished edges contrasting against the brushed surfaces, bringing out the architectural lines of the case, bezel, and bracelet. The ceramic material also has that naturally smooth, cool feel against the skin, which adds to the sense of refinement, particularly over longer periods of wear.
Swapping over to the rubber strap, however, gives the timepiece a more sporty appearance compared to the elegant and luxurious aesthetic of the ceramic bracelet. The strap is soft, flexible, and comfortable, making it ideal for the warmer weather we are facing in Australia right now. The rubber strap also allows more flexibility, as you can wear it for more casual occasions, andit is also ideal for everyday wearability. It doesn’t have to be one or the other, thankfully, as thanks to Zenith’s quick strap-change system, switching between bracelet and strap takes only seconds, which really adds to the versatility of the DEFY Skyline Skeleton.
Final Thoughts
The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton in ceramic is a great example of how far modern watchmaking has evolved. While the future is still exciting with the prospect of seeing different ceramic colours for Zenith on the horizon, what we have right now is a confident, well-executed timepiece that blends cutting-edge materials, bold design, and genuine technical substance into a watch that feels thoroughly modern yet unmistakably Zenith.
While black ceramic has been used for the DEFY Skyline Skeleton collection previously, pairing it with a gold-toned movement gives the watch new life, and as Zenith states, “a combination reminiscent of theluminous reflections and shadowed structures that shape contemporary urban landscapes”.
It feels both technically impressive with the continuously running 1/10th of a second display, and visually striking with the openworked dial now being more prominent. This feels like a confident, modern take on skeletonisation, while keeping the DNA of the DEFY Skyline architecture intact.
For collectors who want something bold and are looking beyond the usual steel sports watch, this latest DEFY Skyline Skeleton makes a compelling case. The timepiece isn’t just about aesthetics either, as it offers real technical substance with the El Primero 3620 SK movement. Operating at a high frequency of 5Hz, ensuring high levels of precision, it reinforces Zenith’s long-standing expertise in high-frequency watchmaking while delivering a watch that feels as serious mechanically as it does visually.
The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton showcases that Zenith is continuing to push forward, not just in movement innovation, but in how modern watches are meant to look and wear.
Reference: Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton (ref. 49.9300.3620/07.I001)
Specification
- Case: 41mm X 11.6mm, lug-to-lug 46.3mm
- Case Material: Black Ceramic case and bezel with polished and brushed surfaces
- Dial: Gold-toned openworked dial with black skeletonised 1/10th of a second sub-counter. Hands and indices are gold-plated, faceted, and coated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating.
- Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
- Movement: El Primero 3620 SK, Automatic
- Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
- Strap: Black Ceramic bracelet and folding clasp. Comes with a black rubber strap with a starry sky pattern and with a black PVD stainless buckle with a folding clasp.