This new Zenith Defy Skyline is impossible to ignore! Decked out in rose gold, this marks the first time the brand has skeletonised their tourbillon movement.
Every watch brand has to have something that sets it apart from the rest of the crowd. Pro wrestlers call it a gimmick, journalists call it an angle, and others call it an X-factor. Some brands are lucky enough to have more than one, and Zenith is among that chosen few.
Since 1865, the Le Locle brand has found plenty of angles for its brand to flourish. If you are a Zenith-head, then of course its greatest achievement is the first automatic chronograph movement. But while that is indelibly etched into the history books, it is the 5Hz beat rate that came with it that may be the most enduring achievement of all. Originally conceived for more accurate chronograph timing, Zenith’s penchant for high-beat movements has positioned it as a unique innovator in the horological space.
Since 2024, that same high-beat technology has been seamlessly integrated into the iconic tourbillon complication. With the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon came a world of new possibilities. This year in Milan, LVMH Watch Week has brought one of those possibilities into reality. Meet the new Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton, an aesthetic first for the line, presented in stunning rose gold.
The size dimensions have not changed between the classic tourbillon line and this skeletonised reference. The 41mm case diameter ensures fair wearability, supported by a 47mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 12.6mm. Of course, it is not going to wear like the steel or ceramic models in the standard collection, given the addition of 18k rose gold. As lustrous as it is dense, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton’s wrist presence will be akin to the one we reviewed last year.
Wrist presence is hard to quantify when you are not seeing it in person. However, the dial presentation is much easier to admire, even from afar. The openworked blue dial reveals a striking interplay of depth, finishes, and colour. Gold faceted hour markers and solid gold hands sit atop the skeletonised backdrop, finished meticulously in the name of legibility.
Two bridges, positioned at 10 and 2 o’clock, use their geometric forms to enhance the sharp architecture of the case. As the wrist moves, these bridges also create a dynamic relief that shifts with the changing light.
The bridges and mainplate are treated with blue PVD, then selectively polished to expose rhodium-plated chamfers. This meticulous finishing creates a refined contrast between matte surfaces and brilliant edges, reinforcing the watch’s emphasis on light as a design element as much as a visual effect.
But amidst the avant-garde dial and sculptural silhouette, the Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is only as good as its mechanical heart. Thankfully, the brand has exactly what the watch needs: one of the best tourbillon movements in the modern industry. The automatic Calibre El Primero 3630 SK, beating at an astounding 5Hz (36,000VpH), represents the pinnacle of Zenith’s horological capabilities.
Assisted by a 50-hour power reserve, the movement’s mechanical prowess is matched by its presentation, visible through the delicate skeletonisation of the dial. The tourbillon provides a hypnotic focal point, revolving to maintain the movement’s accuracy, all at the blistering pace that is a signature of Zenith.
Final Thoughts
In the world of the integrated bracelet sports watch, an X-factor is more important than ever. Pioneers like the Royal Oak and the Nautilus paved the way for the modern trend, and newer models like the Tissot PRX have introduced it to an unimaginably wider audience. With that, however, comes a sense of fatigue. Integrated bracelet sports watches have become so common that it is hard to get excited about new ones as they arrive.
But the Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is different. Sure, the monolithic case construction is something to be admired in itself, but it is not how the watch starts, it is how it finishes. The LVMH brand’s latest foray into haute horlogerie tops itself off beautifully, with a tourbillon complication specced out to the nines. In all, it bridges the gap between Zenith’s heritage, the complexities of micro-engineering, and contemporary design conventions. It is more than just a mere gimmick by definition; the Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is their ace in the hole.
Reference: 18.9300.3630/78.I001
Specifications
- Dimensions: 41mm case diameter x 47mm lug-to-lug x 12.6mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k rose gold
- Dial: Blue openworked with rose gold accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. El Primero 3630 SK with high-beat tourbillon complication
- Beat Rate: 5Hz (36,000VpH)
- Power Reserve: 50h
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Bracelet/Strap: Interchangeable integrated 18k rose gold bracelet with butterfly clasp OR blue rubber strap with rose gold deployant butterfly buckle