LVMH Watch Week 2026: Can you keep a secret? Well, it’s a bit late to ask Bvlgari, as they have just unveiled a brand new version of their Monete secret watch!
Okay, that heading might be confusing for non-watch nerds. So before we get into Bvlgari’s new Maglia Milanese Monete, here’s a quick debrief on what a ‘secret watch’ actually is. And no, it’s not an off-catalogue piece à la Rolex’s gem-set creations. Instead, it’s a distinct watch format with deep historical roots.
Put simply, secret watches are timepieces cleverly disguised as jewellery. They originated in an era when it was uncommon, and often socially frowned upon, for women to own a watch. While culture has thankfully moved on, the secret watch remains a unique and enduring touchpoint in horological history.
The secret watch is especially important to Bvlgari’s history. Since the 1960s, the Greco-Roman-Swiss jeweller-watchmaker has been particularly known for using its combined skill set to create secret timepieces. One prominent example is the Serpenti Tubogas, famously seen on the wrist of Elizabeth Taylor between filming her iconic role in 1963’s Cleopatra.
However, the historical connection runs even deeper with the Monete collection. The origins of the line can be traced back to Nicola Bulgari, who sought to capture the intrigue and heritage of his native country’s history. To achieve this, he had the bold idea of setting ancient Greek and Roman coins, and later coins from other cultures, into jewellery and, of course, watches.
And for 2026, his creativity lives on with the Bvlgari Maglia Milanese Monete. Released for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the new timepiece is housed in an 18k rose-gold case set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds. Totalling 0.5 carats, they are complemented by a rose-gold crown set with a single diamond weighing 0.06 carats.
While case dimensions have not yet been disclosed, it’s safe to assume that, given the watch’s lineage, it is proportioned for female wrists and paired with a beautifully executed Milanese bracelet.
Within the case lies a hidden mother-of-pearl dial, accented by 12 diamond hour markers totalling a further 0.1 carats. But with a secret watch, telling the time is rarely the main event. As hinted at by the Monete collection’s history, the dial is concealed beneath a hinged cover containing an authentic ancient Roman coin.
This particular coin depicts Emperor Caracalla, who ruled from 197 to 218 CE. Unfortunately, he was far from benevolent, raising taxes across the Roman Empire to better fund his military ambitions. By most historical accounts, his rise to power following his father, Septimius Severus, and the atrocities he committed in Alexandria also put a damper on his legacy as Emperor of Rome.
But while Caracalla may have been brutal and violent, the craftspeople behind the mechanics of Bvlgari’s new watch are the complete opposite. Delicately set within the case is the Calibre Piccolissimo BVP 100. Serving as the Maglia Milanese Monete’s manual-wind mechanical micro-movement, the Piccolissimo operates at a relaxed 3Hz beat rate (21,600VpH) and offers a 30-hour power reserve.
And while the front of the watch keeps its time-telling duties discreet, the rear is far more forthcoming. A sapphire crystal caseback allows the wearer to admire the movement’s 2.5 mm thickness in all its tiny glory.
My Thoughts
Jewellery and horology are two industries that have been intertwined since their earliest beginnings. Time and again, they have existed alongside one another throughout history, ultimately uniting under the single banner that is Bvlgari. We at Watch Advice have been privileged many times over to see this extreme level of craftsmanship in practice!
In any case, the secret watch in my view is perhaps the clearest example of how to successfully marry jewellery and watchmaking. Whenever watches attempt to become jewellery, or jewellery tries to become a watch, the result is more often than not to the detriment of both. Too many promising concepts have fallen flat or been quickly dismissed as ‘tacky’.
I understand that the Bvlgari Maglia Milanese Monete secret watch won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. However, it stands as an important continuation of the brand’s heritage, bringing together artistry, history and innovation in a single piece. By combining its Greco-Roman soul with Swiss mechanical mastery, Bvlgari has successfully harnessed both the art and science behind haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie.
Reference: 104328 (Small Bracelet) / 104385 (Large Bracelet)
Specifications
- Dimensions: TBC
- Case Material: 18k rose gold with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.5cts), authentic ancient Roman coin depicting Emperor Caracalla (circa 198-297CE), & diamond-set crown (0.06cts)
- Dial: White mother-of-pearl with 12 diamonds (0.1cts)
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. Piccolissimo BVP 100
- Power Reserve: 30h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: TBC
- Strap: 18k rose gold Milanese mesh bracelet & buckle