Day 5 of our Christmas Countdown, and this time, we go stealth wealth for those who want to be seen but not heard, with some quiet luxury!
Quiet luxury – yes, it is a thing and gaining popularity among those people who wish to enjoy the finer things in life, but not shout their success from the rooftops. In fashion circles, think Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and Brioni, or really, any of the clothes from the Roy family in Succession.
These are brands that you won’t look twice at, and don’t have any in-your-face logos shouting, “Look at me!” In the watch world, this is even rarer as many brands have iconic designs that are highly recognisable, or use more overt precious metals like pink and yellow gold. But, some stealth wealth brands and models will let you “hide” the fact that you have money, and we have ten for you now…
Matt’s Stealth Wealth Picks You’ll Hardly Notice
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel
A perpetual calendar is usually a watch that people will often look twice at, thanks to the complicated dial and, normally, a slightly larger wrist presence. However, this year Parmigiani Fleurier flipped the script on a perpetual calendar with the introduction of the Toric Quantième Perpétuel. It is a perpetual calendar that looks anything but, and is perfect for those who do not want to show off.
Now this isn’t a stealth wealth watch in terms of its looks, as it does have that “Morning Blue” dial which stands out on the wrist, but in the platinum case, you could be forgiven that it was steel. On top of this, most people won’t know the PF logo on the dial, and with only two subdials, it doesn’t look really like a perpetual calendar in the traditional sense. In fact, this is Parmigiani Fleurier doing what it does best by breaking down the perpetual calendar components and only showing the everyday use functions on the dial.
It also comes in a rose gold model, but I feel the Morning Blue is better suited to those who don’t want to flaunt that they have it. This is one aspect I love about Parmigiani Fleurier: it’s a watch brand that really only speaks to collectors, and even then, those who are into watches, as the general public won’t know what they are looking at!
International RRP: CHF 92,000 plus taxes
Availability: Available through authorised retailers. Head to Parmigiani.com for more information.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal
Laurent Ferrier is the master of stealth wealth. Pick up a Laurent Ferrier watch, and you’ll instantly see what I mean. Minimalistic case and dial designs, hidden complications, but all exquisitely finished and often in precious metals. This is why I’ve picked the Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon in teal. It doens’t look all that “wealthy,” but the devil for this watch is all in the detail!
The perfectly sized 41mm pebble-shaped case, inspired by 19th-century pocket watches, is made from 950 platinum, and it does have a weight to it. The teal dial is subtle and really only comes to life in broad daylight, and it isn’t just any dial, but a Grand Feu” Enamel dial with an 18k white gold 210Pd underplate flanked with Roman Numerals and a small seconds dial at 6 O’clock for some embellishment.
Flip the watch over, and you’ll see what your CHF 195,000 is going to – the exceptionally finished movement with the five perfectly finished bridges that show just enough of the Calibre LF619.01 that delivers 80 hours of power from the manual winding movement. At the bottom? A toubillon that keeps the watch ticking and accurate with its double hairspring.
International RRP: CHF 195,000 plus taxes
Availability: Available through authorised retailers. Head to LaurentFerrier.ch for more information.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227g
Patek Philippe makes some amazing watches, ranging from the sporty Aquanaut and Nautilus to the high complications, like the Sky Moon Tourbillon. But the Genovois brand also makes some of the most understated watches around, including the Calatrava. The Calatrava is the traditional entry point into Patek Philippe, thanks to the price point, but the collection does range massively. Today, however, I’ve picked the 5227g as this is an elegant stealth wealth watch that ticks the boxes for those who want to blend in.
On the surface, it looks fairly plain, but that is the point with the Calatrava. Simple and elegant – nothing more, nothing less. The Lacquered black dial is deep, while the white gold applied faceted trapeze-style hour markers and white gold faceted dauphine-style hands cut through the inky blackness. This is all contrasted by the 39mm white gold case.
Flipping the watch over, the caseback has a rare (these days) dust cover that conceals the sapphire crystal, peering through to the 26-330 S C movement. The calibre is finished to Patek’s exacting standards and shows why Patek Philippe is one of the best.
Australian RRP: A$73,200
Availability: Available through authorised retailers. Head to Patek.com for more information.
H.Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop
Moser is a brand that lives by the minimalistic mantra. The concept behind the brand is elegance and refinement, but with that minimalistic nature, and only what you need on the dial. But H. Moser & Cie doesn’t shy away from fun either, having done collaborations with the likes of Studio Underd0g with their passionfruit models. Because of this, they tend to gravitate towards those bright, fun colours outside of their standard palette. And in this instance, I have chosen a fun, stealth wealth watch in the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop.
No branding on the dial, no numbers, just unique materials. The 38mm case is sleek and will accommodate most wrists, and while this isn’t a precious metal, it’s a steel case; the dial and movement here are the stars. As I said, it’s an IYKYK kind of watch. The main dial is made from Peruvian pink opal, and the small seconds dial is made from Burmese jade.
The Calibre HMC 202 beats away under the partially skeletonised bridges, and an anthracite grey finish with Moser’s signature double stripes provides a great backdrop to the 18K solid gold rotor. The watch even comes complete with a grey hand-stitched ostrich leather strap. It is a great watch to go both unnoticed, but noticed, if you know what I mean?
Australian RRP: A$56,400
Availability: Available through J. Farren Price and other authorised H. Moser & Cie retailers. Head to H-Moser.com for more information.
Sam’s Under The Radar Picks
Vacheron Traditionelle Manual Winding
A timepiece that exudes understated sophistication is Vacheron Constantin’s traditional manual-winding model, one of the more recent additions to the Traditionnelle collection. This watch celebrates Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary, featuring a specially designed Maltese cross-inspired dial created exclusively for this occasion.
For me, this is a watch that fits perfectly within the stealth wealth theme, as at first glance you wouldn’t immediately recognise it as a high-end, ultra-luxury timepiece. It’s only upon closer inspection that the finer details reveal themselves, showcasing the craftsmanship and subtle elegance that make this watch truly special. This quiet confidence is exactly what gives the piece its lasting appeal.
It is presented in a 950 platinum beautifully finished stepped round case, with the lugs and slender bezel nailing the elegance of this timepiece. The silver-toned dial pattern is full of detail, with the Maltese cross motif only really visible upon closer inspection. You’ll also find the Maltese cross at the lower left side of the dial, an iconic logo in the world of fine watchmaking. The manual-wound movement features a power reserve of nearly three days, making this a timepiece that’s well-suited for daily wear.
Australian RRP: A$64,500
Availability: Available through Vacheron Constantin boutiques and authorised retailers. Head to Vacheron-Constantin.com for more information.
Breguet Classic Souscription 2025
The Breguet Classique Souscription is a celebration of the brand’s heritage and pursuit of perfection, tying itself back to a historical piece dating almost 228 years ago. Even though the timepiece features an 18k Breguet gold case, it’s really the dial that makes this such an understated piece. Froma distance, and even closer up, it is not an in-your-face watch, and this to me, is stealth wealth!
For those outside of the watch world, when you first see this timepiece, you might wonder how it’s even possible to tell the time with just one hand. This ingenious and innovative design reads both the minutes and hours with a single hand. Between each hour marker are smaller line markings along the main track, with each line representing a five-minute increment. While it may not be precise to the exact minute, it is still more than sufficient for daily wear.
For the 250th anniversary celebration of Breguet this year, the brand released an updated rendition of the Classique timepiece. The Classique Souscription 2025 features the same original pocket-watch design, now executed in the brand’s signature Breguet gold material, which combines gold, silver, copper, and palladium.
The dial is simple in its architecture but still features everything needed to read the time clearly. The white enamel dial acts as a clean backdrop for the signature Breguet numerals and Breguet logo. This design is what makes it an under-the-radar timepiece, as it’s truly for those who understand the value of the watch. Those within the watch world certainly recognise its importance, with the Classique Souscription 2025 winning the Grand Prix d’Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG, the most prestigious award, recognising the finest watch for its technical excellence and iconic design.
Australian RRP: A$81,900
Availability: Available through Breguet authorised retailers. Head to Breguet.com for more information.
Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire
A timepiece with a bit more detail than my previous two choices, yet still one that flies under the radar for those who are looking at a more “robust” stealth wealth watch – the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire from Louis Moinet. You could almost argue that this timepiece might have too much detail for a watch meant to fall into the stealth wealth category, but, to me, it carries a level of history and heritage that many people, even within the watchmaking world, are not familiar with. Certified by the Geneva Astronomical Observatory, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire draws design cues from the brand’s 1816 chronograph, particularly in the case and bracelet design.
The design of the Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire is both modern and vintage. Firstly, we have the Grade 5 titanium case, which features an integrated bracelet design. The overall look resembles a pocket watch attached to a bracelet, which is exactly the concept the brand used for its 1816 Chronograph.
The dial, on the other hand, is rhodium-plated and features a mix of satin and bead-blasted finishes. The blued skeletonised hands stand out beautifully against the grey backdrop, while the small seconds at 9 o’clock create a balanced blend of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.
International RRP: CHF 18,900
Availability: Available via Louis Moinet authorised retailers. Head to LouisMoinet.com for more information.
Mario’s Quiet Luxury Pieces
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Geographic
Okay, if you’re surprised by the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre made it into an article about stealth wealth watches, then you must be new around here. Nothing wrong with that, but let me fill you in on why Jager-LeCoultre is the least surprising brand on this list. Since 1833, the now Richemont-affiliated manufacture has been producing some of the finest luxury watches in horological history, earning the oft-repeated title of “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”. If Patek were Jay-Z and Audemars Piguet were Nas, Jaeger-LeCoultre would be MF DOOM.
The Reverso is just one of the iconic pieces on which the brand has built its reputation, and for good reason. Few timepieces can look as effortlessly elegant in a pinch as the Reverso. But be warned: owning a Reverso always comes with a flipside, and in the case of the Reverso Geographic, it’s the best flipside possible.
With the Reverso Geographic, you don’t just get an elegant dress watch with a big date on the front. You also get a lacquered, laser-engraved world timer on the back. Yes, it’s chunkier than most others in the collection, but that feels negligible when you factor in everything else. From the remarkable case finishing and ingenious complexity to its fun, fidget-friendly appeal, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Geographic is the perfect pick for the millionaire with a million places to be, all the while not flexing, stealth wealth style.
Australian RRP: A$35,900
Availability: Available now, in-store at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques and online at Jaeger-LeCoultre.com
Blancpain Villeret Extraplate
When you think of Blancpain, I suspect two words immediately come to mind: Fifty Fathoms. You wouldn’t be wrong to think so. Launched in 1953, the brand has championed it ever since. But what if I told you this seemingly one-trick pony has another ace up its sleeve, perfect for this stealth wealth guide?
Meet the Blancpain Villeret Extraplate, a gorgeous yet discreet timepiece for collectors with refined tastes. Originally introduced as the Classique line (no relation to Breguet) in the 1980s, the Villeret has evolved significantly over the past five decades. It might be hard to tell at first glance, given its classic lines and heritage aesthetic, but rest assured, there’s a comfortably modern watch ticking away beneath the surface.
Despite being just 8.7mm thick, the automatic Calibre 1151 still manages to deliver a gargantuan 100 hours of power reserve. So while the delicate Villeret Extraplate may only come out on special occasions, it will be ready and running for more than four days after your latest black-tie event. It’s one of the few watches on this list you won’t feel guilty about leaving the engine running!
Australian RRP: A$37,300
Availability: Available now, through Blancpain boutiques, authorised retailers, or online at Blancpain.com
Rolex 1908
Long-time readers are likely expecting me to wax poetic about how much I loved this year’s 1908 Settimo. However, that’s not going to happen here. While it remains the lesser-known collection in Rolex’s current line-up, it’s still a fully gold watch on a full gold bracelet. That’s not stealth wealth at all. If this were London, I might as well paint a target on my back while wearing it.
Instead, I’ve chosen a reference released last year. Yes, it’s probably still liable to a bit of thievery, but at least I’ll know the thieves have taste. This particular Rolex 1908 stands out as the only model in the range to feature an ice-blue guilloché dial, which is very much a cut above the rest, and thankfully, doesn’t look like your typical sports Rolex, which is why I’ve chosen it for a stealth wealth watch.
For true Rolex enthusiasts, though, an ice-blue dial can only mean one thing: this 1908 is encased in 950 platinum. Far denser than gold and twice as lustrous, the platinum 1908 is one of the most subtly spectacular watches money can buy. While it will certainly catch the eye of those in the know, only you, the wearer, will truly understand the power of its wrist presence.