As we get closer to the official launch of Universal Genève, the brand has released two very limited collections: two sets of three Tribute to Compax watches.
In the 1960s, the Formula One paddock had its unexpected style icon: Nina Rindt. The Finnish model, married to champion driver Jochen Rindt, was more than a spectator at races; she was a presence, a personality, and a trendsetter. On her wrist, a Universal Genève Compax chronograph ticked away the seconds, timing her husband’s laps, gifted to her by her husband Jochen. But this was no ordinary watch. Nina transformed it, pairing precision with personal style, and in doing so, created one of the most collectible vintage chronographs of the 20th century. Collectors today know it simply as “the Nina.”
Now, more than half a century later, Universal Genève brings the icon back to life with the Tribute to Compax, a limited run of six watches across two sets, combining historic charm with modern craftsmanship. Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi revisits and reimagines Nina’s signature bund strap, fusing racing heritage with couture-level artistry.
“For us, the Tribute to Compax is a statement of where we’re going: refined luxury shaped with the same meticulous handwork that has always defined UG,” says managing director Gregory Bruttin. CEO Georges Kern adds, “Nina Rindt’s chronograph is one of Universal Genève’s defining stories. Revisiting it was never a question; it was always part of our vision for the brand’s return.”
The Two Sets
There are just two sets of three watches available, which can be purchased on request, with the proceeds going towards the Geneva Watchmaking School, the oldest in Switzerland, and historically linked to Universal Genève. Each set is slightly different in makeup. The first set comprises two 18k red gold pieces: one with a brown dial and black subdials, the other with a black dial and white subdials. An 18k white gold Panda completes this set.
The second set has two 18k white gold pieces: one in a Reverse Panda dial, and one with a blue enamel dial and black subdials. The third is the 18k rose gold with a Panda Dial. All of the watches feature a red chronograph seconds hand, and are on the Satoru Hosoi bund strap that is less vintage and more couture. Each strap is hot-stamped with both the Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS signatures, and depending on the watch, either brown or black is used.
The dials are made from Grand Feu Enamel, a process that requires attention to detail and expertise, thanks to the numerous steps involved. The technique uses minerals enriched with metallic oxides, which gives them the desired colour, which are then fired at over 800°C and reapplied up to ten times. This gives the dials depth and vibrancy that is impossible to replicate with machines, and one of those time-honoured crafts that leaves no room for error.
Bund Straps as Couture
Central to the new Compax is the leather bund strap, crafted by Satoru Hosoi, his first collaboration with a watch brand. Trained in Japan and Italy, with experience at Hermès and Moynat, Hosoi approaches leather as couture, not merely utility. His straps for the Tribute to Compax are built from three interlocked pieces of calfskin, sewn inseparably, creating a modern echo of Nina’s bold improvisation.
The straps, stamped with both Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS, come in fashion-conscious yet timeless tones: brown or black for white gold, taupe or olive for red gold. And fittingly, they were crafted in Paris—the city where Nina first reinvented her Compax, when on a trip to Paris, she spotted a wide leather cuff in a shop window.
An Original Movement
Universal Genève has taken the vintage revival one step further in the Nina Compax. The brand has used archival Calibre 281 movements from the Compax’s era: manual-winding, column-wheel chronographs of 28.5 mm in diameter and 7.10 mm thick, restored them and placed them into the watches. Each has a power reserve of 36 hours and beats at 2.5Hz or 18,000 VpH.
To me, this is a great way to bring the past to the present with a piece of Universal Genève’s history inside. For collectors, they are then literally buying a piece of the original Universal Genève. There are very few brands that will, or can, offer this for modern timepieces, so for this, I applaud Universal Genève.
Initial Thoughts
Universal Genève is a brand revival I feel that is being done well. Rather than rushing it to market, it is being slowly revived through the use of historical pieces, like the Polerouter collection that was designed for Geneva Watch Days last year. Being owned by the company that owns Breitling, it needs to be positioned in a way that speaks to collectors, and when officially selling watches, to those who appreciate the high-end finishing and movements, as this is where the brand is squarely aimed.
With the Tribute to Compax, this collection just reinforces this fact. Universal Genève is, and will be, here to play for those who love more artisanal, vintage-style watches with history attached. When launched, we knew that the Universal Genève brand would go for more high-end pieces, and this collection speaks to this. Well finished, restored archival movements and with a story behind the look!
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 36mm x 12.67mm thick
- Case Material: 18k red or white gold polished cases
- Dial: White/black/blue enamel dial with black or white enamel chronograph counters. Dependant on variants, black varnished / red-gold plated, or rhodium plated hour and minutes hands, and white/black varnished or red gold plated counter hands, all hands with Super-LumiNova
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Original restored Universal Genève 281 manual winding calibre
- Movement Power reserve: 36 hours operating at 2.5Hz (18,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides
- Strap: Brown / taupe & black / olive & black calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K white or red gold pin buckle.