A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist!
What We Love
- The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching.
- High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse.
- From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed.
What We Don’t
- Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory.
- A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many.
- While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view.
Overall Rating: 9.1/10
- Value for money: 8.5/10
- Wearability: 9.5/10
- Design: 9.5/10
- Build quality: 9/10
Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith has brought the DEFY collection into the spotlight, where sports watches with integrated bracelet designs meet the highly complex calibre movements of El Primero.
The release of the DEFY-Skyline collection in 2022 brought the appeal of vintage designs, married now with modern sport-luxury aesthetics. The vintage design cues stem from the angular geometry and faceted aesthetics of the “vault-like” robust Zenith models from the late 1960s, which were created to withstand the elements and reflect the high-beat precision sitting inside. But the new Skyline collection did more than that. It created a fresh new take, with a dodecagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and a dial pattern which has four-point stars that are beautifully and geometrically laid out, in which Zenith themselves describe it as the brand’s “first patterned dial with a starry motif.”
Taking the now-popular DEFY-Skyline collection, Zenith gave it one of the most beloved high-complications in the world of watchmaking. The DEFY Skyline Tourbillon marked the first time the collection embraced a flying tourbillon complication alongside a high-frequency movement. This, for me, is what sent the DEFY-Skyline collection into the next realm of high horology.
The fusion of high-beat El Primero with flying tourbillon complication, and then the sports integrated case design, combined with an aesthetic starry-patterned dial, made this an undeniable statement piece. It’s the perfect bridge between Zenith’s technical mastery and modern luxury.
Now, released only just a few short weeks ago in October 2025, Zenith has updated the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon with what I think is the best colourway yet. The timepiece is now presented in a luxurious brushed and polished 18kt rose gold case, which is perfectly complemented by a brick-red sunray-patterned dial that is adorned with the engraved four-pointed stars. Honestly, most dial colours would do justice to this model against that stunning 18kt rose gold case (can you imagine a black dial?), but this brick-red colour is unique, and that’s also what makes it really pleasing to the eye.
This new DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Rose Gold is presented with either a full integrated 18kt rose gold bracelet or a brick-red rubber strap with a textured pattern that resembles the four-pointed stars on the dial. As you’ll see in the review, while the full gold bracelet undeniably exudes luxury, value, and a satisfying hefty weight, it was still a tough choice between that and the textured rubber strap, as both look absolutely stunning on the wrist!
Initial Thoughts On The DEFY Skyline Tourbillon
When I first saw the Defy Skyline Tourbillon through the press release, I was immediately impressed with the design. Like many high-complication pieces before it, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon integrates the tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position through an open-worked cutout. Stemming from this opening is Zenith’s iconic four-pointed star motif, arranged in a beautiful circular pattern that gradually expands as it reaches the edges of the dial.
However, as with all things seen through press releases and official images, the reality can be quite different once the watch is actually in your hands. I have to say, though, when I first held this piece, it looked so much better in person. While the dial appears slightly darker than in the official imagery, it still carries that beautiful sunburst effect, with the engraved four-point DEFY dial pattern clearly visible. On top of that, the polished surfaces of the case are executed extremely well, giving the watch a truly luxurious shine.
Case Design DEFY Skyline Tourbillon
I have to say, the more I wore this watch, the more I fell in love with it. I feel like Zenith really executed this timepiece exceptionally well, and maybe it’s because this is the first tourbillon I’ve had on the wrist to review, but everything just comes together beautifully. It never feels overbearing, despite being a timepiece full of colour and presence. Instead, it captures your attention and refuses to let it go in the best possible way.
The 41 mm case is presented in 18-karat rose gold, which I think is the perfect material to complement this coloured dial. If it were full yellow gold or even another precious metal, I feel it simply wouldn’t pair as well with this brick-red, sunray-brushed dial. The tonneau-shaped case features multiple facets, all beautifully executed by Zenith with crisp, polished finishing. The bezel surface and the tops of the lugs feature a vertical satin-brushed finish, while the case sides showcase a horizontal satin-brushed finish, creating a striking contrast that highlights the geometry of the watch.
The chamfered edges of the tonneau-shaped case and the faceted bezel, along with the caseback, all feature a mirror-like polished finish. When these polished surfaces meet the brushed areas, it creates a beautiful interplay of textures, allowing the case to shine and shift depending on the lighting angle. This is something you simply won’t see in press photos as you need to hold the watch in person to truly appreciate the craftsmanship. The iconic five-point Zenith star is engraved into the crown, also finished in polish, perfectly matching the overall aesthetics of the case.
Dial Design DEFY Skyline Tourbillon
While the brick-red, sunray-brushed dial is certainly a unique colour, I think it works incredibly well with the 18-carat rose gold case. The two tones complement each other perfectly, bringing out the best of both and creating a stunning presence in hands-on photos. The engraved four-point star pattern is a signature Zenith design, representing a starry sky in which the brand’s five-point Zenith logo sits at the highest point, a reference to the brand’s long-standing vision of always aiming higher.
The rectangular hour indices, along with the hour and minute hands and the Zenith logo, feature a sharp design with a mirror-like polished finish. This achieves two things. Firstly, against the brick-red dial, these elements stand out beautifully, catching the light against the darker background. Secondly, the polished surfaces complement the case’s finishing, with the indices and hands shining at different angles just like the various facets of the case.
The star of the show, of course, is the tourbillon mechanism at 6 o’clock. To continue the starry-sky theme of the dial, Zenith presents the tourbillon in a four-pointed, skeletonised shape. Each of the four points makes one full revolution every 60 seconds. Two of the points have a slightly different aesthetic and are connected by a straight line, a deliberate design choice that allows the viewer to track the tourbillon’s rotation like a dedicated “seconds hand” within its own sub-dial.
As I mentioned earlier, this is the very first tourbillon I’ve had the chance to review, and I have to say, what a piece to start with. I found myself constantly staring at the tourbillon as it performed its graceful rotation, completing one revolution every minute. You can also clearly hear the ticking sound as the mechanism dances at the bottom of the dial, adding a subtle but captivating layer to the experience.
The dial may seem relatively simple at first glance, with the tourbillon mechanism positioned at 6 o’clock, but it’s the smaller details that make this timepiece refined and complex. The tourbillon bridge, along with the skeletonised four-pointed star, is presented in 18-karat rose gold, another nod to Zenith’s meticulous attention to detail, matching the case aesthetic and perfectly complementing the dial.
It’s these subtle touches that elevate the Skyline Tourbillon beyond a standard sports-luxury watch, giving it a level of harmony that feels intentional in every way. Even when viewed up close, nothing feels out of place; everything has been designed to enhance the visual flow and celebrate the mechanics beneath.
El Primero 3630 Calibre Movement
To match the bold aesthetics of the DEFY-Skyline Tourbillon is one of Zenith’s most complex El Primero movements. The El Primero 3630 is an in-house automatic movement featuring a flying tourbillon, a calibre that showcases Zenith’s technical prowess. Operating at a high-beat frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH), this movement stands out in a category of its own, with most tourbillons made by modern standards operating at a much lower rate.
The El Primero 3630 Calibre features an ultra-light tourbillon cage, weighing in at just 0.25 grams. This flying tourbillon completes a full revolution once every 60-seconds, showcasing Zenith’s remarkable ability of miniaturisation and balance. Even with all this complexity, the movement is still able to deliver 50 hours of autonomy, reinforcing the DEFY collection’s ability to merge haute horlogerie with real-world performance and practicality.
When you turn the watch over, you’re treated to some beautiful finishing on the movement. Firstly, you’re greeted by the skeletonised winding rotor, finished in rose gold and featuring Zenith’s iconic five-pointed star logo as the central highlight. While much of the movement is closed off, you can still admire the tourbillon mechanism from the back, along with the movement’s backplate, which appears to be decorated with vertical Geneva stripes radiating outward. This mirrors the star-patterned design on the dial side, creating a cohesive visual theme that flows from front to back.
How Does It Wear?
I think it’s safe to say that I genuinely enjoyed my time with the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon. The timepiece is presented with two strap options, the first being the 18-carat rose gold bracelet, which features a mix of central mirror-polished links and outer H-links with a vertical satin-brushed finish. This aesthetic continues the case’s visual rhythm, and with the integrated bracelet design, it creates a seamless transition from case to bracelet. As expected, the watch takes on an entirely different personality on the gold bracelet, offering a far more luxurious and statement-driven look. However, this also slightly reduces its versatility in how and where you might choose to wear it.
While the bracelet certainly has its appeal, I personally preferred the rubber strap. Not only was it more comfortable to wear, but it also offered far more versatility, allowing the watch to pair effortlessly with almost any outfit. The colour of the strap beautifully matches the brick-red dial, and as you can see from the images, the watch looks stunning in sunlight, with the rose-gold case shimmering at different angles. The rubber strap also helps highlight the 18-carat rose gold case, and to me, it makes the watch “pop” far more than it does on the full gold bracelet.
The case dimensions are refined and perfectly suited for those with slimmer wrists. On my 16cm wrist size, the 41mm case with lug-to-lug distance of approximately 47mm sits surprisingly balanced, and hugs the wrist nicely. While the bottom of the lugs is flat, with only the top surface tapering, this still does help in achieving a great fit. I expect this timepiece to fit even better for those with slightly larger wrist sizes. With it being crafted from 18ct rose gold as well, it adds some weight to the case, which I personally love as it gives a sense of presence and luxury that you feel the moment it’s on your wrist.
On the wrist, it’s easy to get completely lost in the dial. The sunburst pattern brings different tones of the brick-red colour to life, while the signature starry-sky Zenith DEFY Skyline dial motif radiates outward from the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The sunburst effect enhances this pattern even further, making the entire dial feel dynamic and full of depth. Without the sunburst finishing, the dial would not only appear noticeably flatter and duller, but the starry-sky pattern would also fail to stand out anywhere near as much.
Final Thoughts
This latest Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon is one of those timepieces that reminds you why high horology continues to captivate enthusiasts and collectors. The watch for me delivers a visual aesthetic that doesn’t feel over-designed or forced. Everything is in its place, which creates a final product that draws your attention in from every angle. From the brick-red sunburst dial to the beautifully executed flying tourbillon complication at 6 o’clock, Zenith has really nailed it out of the park with this latest iteration of the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon, making it look and feel unmistakably modern, yet deeply rooted in the brand’s DNA.
What also impressed me about this timepiece was the added attention to detail above the craftsmanship. They didn’t simply just slap on a flying tourbillon onto a sports-luxury watch just for the sake of added complexity, but rather built a timepiece where every finishing choice, every angle, every detail serves the overall design. When you think of the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon, the movement inside is no simple feat. The beating heart operates at 5Hz, and combining this with the flying tourbillon is an endeavour that few brands dare attempt, let alone execute this cleanly.
With this technical mastery sitting inside, it’s only justified that the aesthetic appearance of the DEFY-Skyline Tourbillon reflects a contemporary design while still balancing core DNA elements of the collection. Zenith has maintained the sharp case geometry, star-patterned dial language, and the integrated sports-luxury silhouette that defines the Skyline collection, while elevating it with the right case materials and dial colours that allow these elements to shine at their brightest.
Overall, Zenith has elevated the DEFY Skyline into a genuine piece of haute horlogerie. This model proves that the brand isn’t afraid to innovate, refine, and push its contemporary lines into more ambitious territory. I, for one, am excited about the direction that Zenith is heading. With the DEFY Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic being one of my favourite Zenith releases of late, this latest DEFY Skyline Tourbillon only reinforces my confidence that Zenith is entering a new creative stride. Being able to review both of these timepieces was such a joy, and it was one of those rare occasions where I genuinely wanted more time with them. I honestly didn’t want to give them back! Both watches reminded me how far Zenith has come in blending design and innovation, and they make me genuinely excited for what’s next in the DEFY lineup.
Specification: Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Rose Gold (Ref. 18.9301.3630/67.I001)
- Dimensions: 41mm x 12.6mm thick (Approx.) x 47mm lug-to-lug distance
- Case Material: 18ct Rose gold with a mixture of satin-brushed and polished surfaces
- Dial: Brick-red sunray brushed dial. Flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, with Zenith’s iconic four-pointed star dial pattern radiating outwards from the tourbillon cage.
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic El Primero 3630 Calibre with a 60-sec tourbillon. Rose-gold openworked star-shaped oscillating weight with satin-brushed surfaces; 3D laser-engraved “côtes de Genève” pattern radiating from the tourbillon.
- Movement Power reserve: 50 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective coating
- Bracelet/Strap: Integrated rose-gold H-link bracelet with folding clasp. An additional brick-red rubber strap is included. Both are equipped with ZENITH’s interchangeable strap system, requiring no tools.