Louis Vuitton continues the grand renaissance of their horological division! this time, they play on their unique heritage in the space with the return of the retro classic that put them on the map.
Though not traditionally associated with watchmaking, Louis Vuitton’s history in the industry is as storied as it is turbulent. Their journey into timepieces began in 1988 — remarkably young by industry standards — yet their early successes never quite gained the traction they had hoped for. Despite this, Louis Vuitton’s ambition in the field has been undeniable.
In 2011, the brand acquired La Fabrique du Temps, home to two of the world’s ten recognised master watchmakers. Ten years later, newly appointed director of watches Jean Arnault took a bold step: he set aside the past two decades and started anew. The gamble paid off, unveiling several spectacular models to critical acclaim, including revised versions of the Escale and Tambour lines.
But while the revival of Louis Vuitton’s watch division has long since passed, the brand has chosen to look back at one of the models that helped shape its journey. The result of this nostalgia is the Louis Vuitton Monterey, released this year in a limited edition of 188 pieces. Though its design may appear quite different from most modern offerings, its inspiration is deeply rooted in Louis Vuitton’s rich heritage.
The watch began as a concept in the mind of Gae Aulenti, a renowned Italian architect and designer. Not a name that often comes up in casual conversation, perhaps, but many have likely encountered her work — the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in Barcelona and Paris’ Musée d’Orsay stand among her most celebrated architectural achievements. In 1988, she lent her talents to creating two quartz timepieces for the French fashion house, aptly named the LV I and LV II. Given that Jean Arnault is a well-documented admirer of her work, it comes as little surprise that he led the campaign to bring this historical piece back to light.
Measuring 39mm across in a lugless, vertically crowned case, the new Monterey might represent one of the truest expressions of a 39mm watch. However, the absence of lugs will certainly make it feel smaller on the wrist. Its overall thickness is listed at 12.2mm, though this curiously excludes the sapphire crystal, but it’s a detail that should have little impact on the overall wearing experience. Regardless, the watch is likely to feel dense for its size, given its 18k gold construction.
As with many of Louis Vuitton’s recent releases, the Monterey is not simply a reissue but a considered revision. The dial design remains faithful to the charm of the original, yet it has been greatly simplified. Unlike the LV I’s worldtimer complication, the Monterey features a time-only display in white grand feu (great fire) enamel. As strikingly beautiful as it is notoriously difficult to produce, the brilliant white enamel provides a captivating backdrop for the rest of the watch.
Contrasting the white are crisp black Arabic numerals, along with red and blue railroad tracks that segment the dial. Bold red syringe hands indicate the hours and minutes, while the seconds hand echoes the inner track’s vivid blue. The design somewhat echoes the unusual-yet-masterful collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Akrivia from 2024, though the Monterey is far more conservative in its presentation. The black calfskin strap has also been subtly modernised, now featuring quick-release mechanisms discreetly integrated beneath the case.
While the solid case back of the new Monterey prevents us from seeing the movement in all its glory, rest assured that Louis Vuitton has spared no expense. Inside beats not a quartz calibre, but the Cal. LFTMA01.02 — an automatic, time-only movement from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. It runs at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800vph) with a modest 45-hour power reserve. Admittedly, that’s a little low by modern standards, but it reinforces the Monterey’s identity as a distinctive, ‘one-and-done’ collector’s piece for the eclectic enthusiast. Finally, the movement’s rose gold rotor bears the poinçon LFT (LFT Seal), a discreet mark of mechanical excellence from the French powerhouse. It’s just a shame that the only time you might see it is during a service.
My Thoughts
Watches from fashion houses and so-called ‘non-watch’ brands are often mired in misplaced controversy. Despite some brands’ best efforts, it takes considerable time and investment to make a meaningful entry into a market they may not fully understand. Even so, Louis Vuitton has consistently remained at the forefront of that pursuit. Horologically, the brand has advanced far beyond what many once believed possible — a fact made especially clear over the past two years with the success of the Tambour and Escale. Yet this evolution has been quietly unfolding since Gae Aulenti’s seminal collaboration with the brand.
Informed by their own heritage and a renewed sense of direction, Louis Vuitton has now carved out a clear path for itself within the watch industry. It’s always fascinating to uncover unexpected corners of horological history from brands not traditionally associated with watchmaking — at least not directly, given LVMH’s ties to TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Hublot, and many others.
Ultimately, it just goes to show how much there is still to discover within this incredible hobby we share. In that sense, I admire Louis Vuitton’s approach to its own history. The brand isn’t content to simply resurrect an old reference and call it a day, but instead starts from ‘one’, amplifying all the key features that made the original so compelling. Releases like these will undoubtedly continue to push Louis Vuitton further into the conversation around haute horlogerie — if they aren’t there already — and are certainly worth paying attention to. Even if, like me, it’s only vicariously through those who can afford them.
Reference: W0YG11
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 39mm lugless case diameter x 12.2mm thickness (without crystal, with crystal TBC)
- Case Material: 18k yellow gold
- Dial: White grand feu enamel with blue & red lacquer accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. LFTMA01.02
- Power Reserve: 45h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Strap: Black leather strap with 18k yellow gold buckle