Where timekeeping meets artistry, Métiers d’Art watches showcase the beauty of craftsmanship beyond mechanics. From enamel painting to marquetry and engraving, these twelve timepieces celebrate the human touch that keeps traditional watchmaking alive.
Have you ever wondered what it’s like to wear art on your wrist? While today’s smartwatches can display pictures, they can never capture the soul and craftsmanship of an elborate sculpture, hand-engraving, or intricate painting displayed on the watch. This is where Métiers d’Art comes in, where horology meets high artistry.
Translated from the French as “artistic crafts,” Métiers d’Art is the decorative disciplines that transform a wearable timepiece into an artistic masterpiece. There are a variety of artistic techniques that make up Métiers d’Art, such as: enamelling (cloisonné, paillonné, plique-à-jour, grisaille, champlevé), hand engraving, guilloché (engine-turned decorative patterns), marquetry (inlaying wood, mother-of-pearl, or stones, miniature paintings, to gem-setting. When these techniques are used to create an artistic image, it makes a Métiers d’Art timepiece, a visually stunning artwork for the wrist.
Métiers d’Art watchmaking has been around for centuries, with the earliest works found in the intricate decoration of royal pocket watches and ornate clocks of the 16th and 17th centuries. These are pieces that combine mechanical mastery with artistic techniques requiring just as much patience and precision as watchmaking itself. Artisans who work on Métiers d’Art pieces, whether it be hand-engraving, enamelling, or hand-painting, operate with microscopic tolerances, just like watchmakers. If the artisan were to make even the smallest error in brushstroke or engraving, it could ruin a dial that has taken weeks to prepare.
There are only a handful of brands in modern-day watchmaking that still create Métiers d’Art timepieces, keeping the age-old tradition alive. Brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Vuitton, and Van Cleef & Arpels, just to name a few, consistently create Métiers d’Art masterpieces year after year, with ateliers within the manufacture, which preserve and pass down these rare crafts from one generation to another.
Take Cartier for example, who have its own dedicated Maison des Métiers d’Art building, just a short walk from the main Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Canton of Neuchâtel in Switzerland. Chamath and Matt had the chance to do a manufacture visit last year, in which they explored Cartier’s high-watchmaking and Métiers d’Art creations firsthand, seeing how the master artisans transform raw materials into masterpieces of art.
Below, I have compiled together 12 Métiers d’Art timepieces that not only capture the various techniques involved in Métiers d’Art, but also timepieces that show an exceptional level of dedication to produce stunning paintings, engravings, and sculptures that you can have on your wrist!
Blancpain – Métiers d’Art Porcelaine
Reference: 6615 3619 55B
Case Size: 45mm
Case Material: Red Gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Porcelaine
Australian RRP: $140,900
For more information: Blancpain.com.au
Blancpain has an entire collection dedicated to Métiers d’Art timepieces, which the brand states takes “dexterity, know-how, and a good deal of patience”. Métiers d’Art is craftsmanship at its finest, with the timepieces having exemplary finishing both mechanically and artistically. Each of the Métiers d’Art timepieces produced by Blancpain is meticulously crafted in their dedicated Le Brassus workshop, named “La Ferme”. This Métiers d’Art Porcelaine timepiece is a fine example of having dexterity and a good deal of patience, as the process of creating the dial involves several steps that require a long drying and firing process. The Blancpain Métiers d’Art Porcelaine combines porcelain work with miniature enamel painting (as can be seen from the image below). This is a unique creation, showcasing the sheer complexity of the Métiers d’Art techniques involved.
Breguet – Classic Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345
Reference: 5345PT/1S/9XU 05
Case Size: 46mm
Case Material: Platinum
Métiers d’Art Technique: Hand-engraving
International RRP: Price On Request.
For more information: Breguet.com
While the classic double tourbillon is an existing piece of haute horology (one of my personal favourites!), Breguet released a unique edition in dedication to the 2024 Chinese Zodiac Year of the Dragon. The Breguet Classic Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345 is one of the finest displays of mechanical poetry, exemplary finishing, and Métiers d’Art under one roof. The solid gold dragon has been hand-engraved by a dedicated artisan, which also features a mother-of-pearl “ball: that the front claws of the dragon are clutching onto. If this highly detailed engraving wasn’t enough, the two-tourbillons spin around the dial once every 12-hours, as the “bridge” connecting the two tourbillons also act as the hour hand (blackened out along with the minute hand). One of the most expensive and complicated time-only watch, featuring an astonishing 749 components, the Breguet Classic Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345 is really the perfect combination of haute horology and Métiers d’Arts.
Bvlgari – Divas’ Dream Watch
Reference: 103974
Case Size: 33mm
Case Material: 18Kt Rose gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Marquetry, gem-Setting
Australian RRP: AUD $60,300
For more information: Bvlgari.com.au
Bvlgari’s Divas’ Dream watch is a poetic display of Italian glamour and craftsmanship, showcasing the brand’s deep connection to art and feminine elegance. The 18k rose gold case has been adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and lugs, which, with the beautiful aventurine dial, capture the luxury and elegance of this timepiece. Underneath the aventurine dial, the fan-shaped peacock feather has been crafted in the Métiers d’Art technique of marquetry, which is the delicate art of assembling materials to form intricate and detailed patterns. The Divas’ Dream Watch showcases this in a beautiful display, with the stunning blue aventurine backdrop adorned with waves of iridescent green and blue surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds, shimmering beautifully under the light.
Cartier – Métiers d’Art Jewellery Watch
Reference: HPI01639
Case Size: 36mm
Case Material: Yellow gold 750/1000
Métiers d’Art Technique: Enamelling, paillonnage, gem-Setting,
Australian RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Cartier.com.au
Cartier’s Métiers d’Art Jewellery Watch stays true to the brand’s symbolism, with the iconic panther taking centre stage on the dial. The Ronde Louis Cartier Panthère Métiers d’Art watch with a 750/1000 yellow gold case features a black lacquer mother-of-pearl Panthère, which is surrounded by gold thread outline and a beautiful green emerald stone for the eye. The leaves, which are crafted in yellow gold, are overlaid over the Panthère, creating a luxury aesthetic that ties back to the rich jungle habitat of this majestic creature.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Reverso Tribute Rustam Pursues Akvan
Reference: Q39334S4
Case Size: 45.6mm x 27.4mm
Case Material: White gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Métiers d’Art Technique: Enamelling, paillonnage
Australian RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Earlier this year, during Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre released four incredible Reverso timepieces, which, as part of their Métiers d’Art collection, featured incredible enamel paintings that brought 500-year-old Parisian paintings to life. Jaeger-LeCoultre selected four paintings from the Shahnameh of Shah Tahmasp, the manuscript of the Shahnameh, to showcase as miniature works on the back of the iconic Reverso case. My personal favourite is the Reverso Tribute Rustam Pursues Akvan, celebrated champion of Persian folklore, Rustam. A total of 100 hours of minature painting is required on this single timepiece, showcasing the sheer amount of patience and exception skill required to complete the masterpiece.
Jaquet Droz – Tourbillon Red Gold Catrina Skull (The Hours and Flowers of La Catrina)
Reference: The Hours and Flowers of La Catrina
Case Size: 39mm
Case Material: 18kt Red gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Grand feu enamelling, hand-engraving, paillonnage
International RRP: Price on Request
For more information: Jaquet-droz.com
Jacquet Droz dedicated this timepiece to Catrina, one of the very few female incarnations of death in the Mexican Day of the Dead (Dia De Los Muertos). This unique timepiece is encased in a 39mm red gold case, with the dial exhibiting the exceptional skills of micro-painting, pallionne and grand feu enamelling. The vibrant colours of the dial, along with the artistic skull of Catrina beautifully captures the spirit of the Mexican Day of the Dead festival. It doesn’t end there, however, as in the eye of the skull shows Jacquet Droz’s mechnical mastery of the tourbillon, with a beautifully crafted flying-tourbillon showing a bird’s eye view of the watch’s regulating organ.
Louis Vuitton – Tambour Bushido Automata
Reference: Tambour Bushido Automata
Case Size: 46.8mm
Case Material: 18-carat pink gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Paillonné, cloisonné and miniature enamel techniques, gem-setting
International RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Louisvuitton.com.au
Louis Vuitton has hit it out of the park with this creation. Falling under the brand’s high-watchmaking “Automata” watches, this timepiece is a stunning display of Métiers d’Art from the case to the dial. The Tambour Bushido Automata pays homage to Japanese art, culture, and history while referencing Bushido, the samurai’s code of conduct. Every detail of this timepeice has been carefully thoughout, from the 18-carat pink gold case beautifully decorated with engravings of dragons scales, the Samurai with traditional helmot showcasing the hours, to the retrograde display of the minutes with a samurai sword. When activated, the automaton brings the warrior to life, making this one of the most dynamic examples of modern Métiers d’Art, a piece that merges storytelling, movement, and craftsmanship in true Louis Vuitton fashion.
Patek Philippe – Rare Handcrafts – Yellow Crested Cockatoo
Reference: 5738/50J-011
Case Size: 34.5mm
Case Material:18kt White gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Grand Feu Cloisonné enamelling
International RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Patek.com
Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts collection is an annual showcase that is dedicated to preserving the traditional Métiers d’Art techniques combined with modern watchmaking. Every year, Patek Philippe unveils a series of limited and one-of-a-kind pieces that show the exceptional skills of the artisans that carry out Métiers d’Art techniques such as loisonné and miniature enamelling, wood marquetry, guilloché, and hand engraving. The Rare Handcrafts Yellow Crested Cockatoo is a depicts the painting on silk by Japanese artist Itô Jakuchô (1716-1800), with the dial depicting a yellow-crested cockatoo perched on a pine branch. The dial has been crafted through Grand Feu cloisonné enamel where fine gold wires outline the design before layers of coloured enamel are applied and fired multiple times to achieve depth and brilliance.
Richard Mille – RM 88 Automatic Winding Tourbillon Smiley
Reference: RM 88
Case Size: Approx. 40mm (tonneau shaped)
Case Material: ATZ white ceramic and 18K red gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Micro-sculpting, enamelling
International RRP: Discontinued. Secondary Market Approx: (~5Millon AUD)
For more information: Richardmille.com
A truly unique creation, Richard Mille steps into the world of Métiers d’Art with this incredible RM 88 Automatic Winding Tourbillon Smiley. An iconic image drawn up over 50 years ago by Franklin Loufrani, it is the symbol of happiness and joy, making it the perfect emblem for Richard Mille to make it the centre-piece of their Métiers d’Art creation. As Richard Mille states “around the Smiley’s radiant face, an array of miniature sculptures takes possession of the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley’s movement, forming and reforming a surreal scene, brimming with fun and enthusiasm and demonstrating true mastery of the infinitely small.” Creating this display was certainly no easy task, with the tiniest details of the minature sculptures refined to perfection.
Ulysse Nardin – Blast Tourbillon Dragon
Reference: 1725-400-2A/1A
Case Size: 45mm
Case Material: Titanium & 18ct gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Hand-engraving
Australian RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Ulysse-Nardin.com.au
Just like the Breguet earlier, Ulysse Nardin also released a timepiece celebrating the Year of the Dragon last year with a beautifully decorated 3d dragon that appears to slide its way through the gear trains of the movement and the iconic X-structure of the Blast collection. This certainly presented many different challenges to the engineers and watchmakers, with the research and development process taking over two years. The rose gold dragon is detailed through engraving and micro-painting, all done by hand in a process that takes four days of craftsmanship, as Ulysse Nardin states, “three days for the engraving, and one for the painstaking application of graduated shades of red, orange, and yellow”. The finished piece embodies strength, artistry, and motion, a modern tribute to both the dragon’s legend and the timeless spirit of Métiers d’Art.
Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art Tribute To Explorer Naturalists – Detroit De Magellan
Reference: 7500U/000R-B992
Case Size: 41mm
Case Material: 18ct Pink gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Hand-engraving, enamelling
Australian RRP: Price on Request.
For more information: Vacheron-Constantin.com
Vacheron Constantin is well renowned for creating exceptional timepieces, whether it’s pushing the boundaries of haute horlogerie with creating movements with ground-breaking innovations (see here for a glimpse of the brand’s grand complications), or in the case of Métiers d’Art, having a dedicated department to preserve and celebrate the historical techniques of enamelling, engraving, hand-painting, gem-setting etc. Vacheron already has an extensive collection that displays the various techniques of Métiers d’Art, however, what stands out for me the most is their Tribute To Explorer Naturalists collection. This collection is about showcasing “the scientific discoveries of naturalists who travelled the world’s oceans aboard the English ship Beagle in the early 1830s”. The Detroit De Magellan model in particular features the Beagle, portrayed beautifully through remarkable mix of hand-engraving and enameling.
Van Cleef & Arpels – Charms Papillon Féerique Watch
Reference: VCARPBKY00
Case Size: 38mm
Case Material: Rhodium-plated 18K white gold
Métiers d’Art Technique: Plique-à-jour enamelling, paillonné, miniature painting, gem-setting
Australian RRP: AUD $162,000
For more information: Vancleefarpels.com.au
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Extraordinary Dials™ collection is specifically dedicated to merging Métiers d’Art with high-jewellery watchmaking. The collection features Métiers d’Art techniques such as enamelling, engraving, miniature painting, lapidaries, paillonné, and of course, gem-setting. Some of the timepieces in this collection are truly breathtaking, with vivid stories being depicted on the dial through the above-mentioned various techniques. The Charms Papillon Féerique Watch, for example, features a stunning display of high jewellery, where the 18k white gold case is adorned with round diamonds and sapphires, with a white gold rotating charm that also has marquise-cut diamonds and round sapphires. The dial is further embellished with details such as marquise-cut diamonds, plique-à-jour enamelling, white mother-of-pearl, miniature painting, mother-of-pearl glitters, 18K rose gold fairy, and rose-cut and round diamonds, just to name a few. It’s a timepiece that feels alive, a dreamy combination of art and jewellery that reminds us why Van Cleef & Arpels remains one of the greatest storytellers in watchmaking!
