Coming off the back of Geneva Watch Days 2025, the exposure to so many different independent brands that push the very limits of watchmaking has inspired me to curate a list of this year’s most audacious high-complication releases. Telling the time on these watches is secondary, maybe even third or fourth on the priority list, because it’s all about showcasing the mechanical genius, artistic expression, and the high level of craftsmanship that only a few brands in the world can achieve.
High-complication timepieces are the soul of horology. These timepieces, as mentioned earlier, are where watchmakers showcase the purest form of artistry and engineering. They go beyond telling the time to incorporate minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, equation of time displays, and other mechanisms that demand incredible skill to design and assemble.
As with most buying guides, narrowing a list down to just 10–12 choices is no easy task, especially in this category, where so many exceptional releases demand attention. Certain brands specialise in high-complication watchmaking too. Vacheron Constantin, for example, is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year with several remarkable timepieces, which makes choosing only a few models even harder. Nonetheless, I’ve curated the selection below to showcase standout pieces we encountered at Geneva Watch Days 2025, alongside other important releases unveiled throughout the year.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Reference: 104313
Case Size: 40mm x 1.85mm thin
Material: Sandblasted titanium
International RRP: US $678,000
For more information: Bvlgari.com
The masters of ultra-thin watchmaking are back again, this time with the world’s thinnest tourbillon timepiece. Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2025, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a record-breaking release, taking the crown away from Paiget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon that was released in 2024. When you think of a tourbillon and how complicated it is to integrate it into a movement and manufacture, trying to miniaturize this mechanism into an ultra-thin watch will make you question your sanity.
Well, the engineers and watchmakers at Bvlgari have undertaken the daunting task and done just that, by producing the BVF900 calibre movement that sits at just 1.85mm thin. The movement also features a 42-hour power reserve and frequency of 4Hz, making it not only a technical marvel but also a genuinely wearable watch. This is a statement piece that cements Bvlgari’s reputation as the undisputed master of ultra-thin, high-complication watchmaking.
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.
Reference: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. Tribute to Karel Čapek
Case Size: 42.5mm x 15mm thick
Material: Stainless steel
International RRP: CHF 58,000
For more information: Czapek.com
Unveiled during Geneva Watch Days 2025, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. is a bold new creation that is certainly a first for the industry. I loved the way Czapek set up their “boutique” at the Beau Rivage to showcase the timepiece, with a A.I robot talking with guests about this latest creation. Why an A.I robot, you may ask? Well, that is the theme behind this timepiece, with a robot head at the top of the watch. Czapek has drawn inspiration from the famous 1920 play Rossumovi Univerzální Roboti (Rossum’s Universal Robots) by renowned Czech playwright Karel Čapek. A play that introduced robots, one that now proudly sits at the forefront of Czapek’s latest masterpiece.
The Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. also comes with a monopusher rattrapante (split-seconds) chronograph that stands out beautifully thanks to the blued hands against the skeletonised dial. This skeletonised dial also showcases Czapek‘s technical artistry, revealing the entire rattrapante mechanism on the dial side. By putting the split-seconds chronograph works on display, Czapek turns a traditionally hidden complication into the star of the show, allowing collectors to admire every cam, lever, and column wheel in action.
Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance D’une Montre 3
Reference: FB 4BTC. 1
Case Size: 44.3mm x 13mm thick
Material: Ten models in ethical 18-carat gold
International RRP: CHF 850,000
For more information: Ferdinandberthoud.ch
One of my favourite releases from this year’s Geneva Watch Days was Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance D’une Montre 3. Not only was this timepiece a technical marvel, but the sheer craftsmanship behind the watch left me in awe. The Timepiece is both a homage and an experiment. The watchmakers and engineers at Ferdinand Berthoud combined history and avant-garde technology to bring this masterpiece to life. A project that was six years in the making, the Naissance D’une Montre preserves almost-forgotten craftsmanship in its purest form.
What makes this an exceptional creation is not just the movement, but the pure artistry within the dial. The off-centre time display shows a double display of hours and minutes, a design cue that references Ferdinand Berthoud’s early Astronomical Pocket Watch No.3. Around the flange of the dial is the seconds display, which is shown through the singular blued seconds hand. The genius part of the timepiece is located at the 6 o’clock position: the barrel and fusee connected by a chain, a signature design feature of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
Greubel Forsey QP Balancier
Reference: Greubel Forsey QP Balancier
Case Size: 44.7mm x 14.75mm
Material: Brushed and polished white gold
International RRP: P.O.A
For more information: Gruebelforsey.com
Gruebel Forsey’s QP Balancier challenges conventional watchmaking with a perpetual calendar complication that is driven by just a single crown. Normally for a perpetual calendar timepiece, there are hidden pushers in the case flank that allows you to adjust the date, but Gruebel Forsey does away with this to have the crown control the calendar functions such as day, date, month, leap year, 24-hour indicator and also the day/night indicator. All together, there are 12 functions within the crown mechanism, and you can move the crown in either direction; the adjustments are also reversible incase you overcorrect!
Aside from the mechanical mastery behind this perpetual calendar movement, the dial is pure Gruebel Forsey design. The standout element is the 30° inclined balance wheel, a signature design element of Gruebel Forsey. The balance wheel being tilted isn’t just for cool aesthetic purposes either, it improves the stability and also reduces the effects of gravity over the operating positions. For the ultra-wealthy collector who already owns the staples, a watch like this represents the next tier: mechanical art at its highest level!
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179
Reference: Q39434E1
Case Size: 31mm x 13.6mm thick
Material: 18k white gold
International RRP: US $565,000
For more information: Jaeger-Lecoultre.com
The Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is Jaeger-LeCoultre pulling out all the stops. The Calibre 179 features the fourth evolution of their signature multi-axis gyrotourbillon, fitted into the iconic rectangular Reverso case, an incredible technical challenge considering the geometry! As expected with the Reverso, we are treated to a Duoface setup with two distinct dials, with the front side being the time-display and the hypnotic tourbillon, while the reverse side features a second timezone and a 24-hour indicator.
The gyrotourbillon is a thing of beauty, with the inner cage completing a full 360° every 16 seconds, while the outer (peripheral) carriage rotates once per minute. What makes this more than just a “complex” watch is how it marries finish, form and prestige. The skeletonisation is beautifully carried out, with the bridges and plates being reduced to the bare essentials, then hand-bevelled, laser skeletonised and lacquer-filled in deep blue tones. For the collector aiming to balance mechanical dazzle with artistic gravitas, this is the kind of “halo piece” that defines a collection rather than complements it.
L. Leroy Osmior Bal Du Temps
Reference: LL305/1, LL306/1. LL307/1
Case Size: 43mm x 13.8mm thick
Material: Tambour case in 18k 5N Red gold, Platnium case or Grade 5 titanium
International RRP: Price on request.
For more information: Montres-leroy.com
L. Leroy is celebrating their 240th anniversary this year, and also their first appearance at Geneva Watch Days. For this special occasion they wanted to remind collectors and enthusiasts of its historic importance. The timepiece starting off this historic era is the Osmior Bal Du Temps, featuring complications of the highest technical level, such as the Tourbillon and Minute Repeater.
The “tambour” shaped case, which is a signature design of the Osmior collection is being presented in either noble 18K 5N red gold, prestigious platinum, and the lightweight and contemporary grade 5 titanium. What makes this piece standout, however, is the dial, which is described as “a delight for the eyes” by L. Leroy. A stunning display of craftsmanship, paying homage to L. Leroy’s historical heritage and the tradition of Swiss high-end watchmaking, the dial showcases the intricate mechanics of the complex movement. All of these elements combine to make the Osmior a true statement piece rather than just another complicated watch, exactly the kind of high-complication timepiece that elevates an ultra-wealthy collection.
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Reference: 6159G-001
Case Size: 39.5mm x 11.49mm thick
Material: 18k White gold
Australian RRP: AU $201,700
For more information: Patek.com.au
Patek Philippe had a host of releases during Watches and Wonders 2025, with a few standout pieces such as the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar. This is Patek Philippe reinterpreting the perpetual calendar with a contemporary approach by displaying the date feature with a retrograde mechanism. The dial has a grey metallized sapphire crystal that shows the movement underneath, but more importantly the month and day wheels are in full display, done just right not to detract attention away from the retro-grade display.
The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is a brilliant example of how Patek Philippe can modernise one of its most traditional complications, without losing any of the refinement or legibility collectors expect. This watch takes the perpetual calendar complication into fresh territory by combing the contemporary retrograde date display with a partially openworked dial and impeccable finishing that Patek Philippe is known for.
Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication
Reference: 5308G-001
Case Size: 42mm x 17.71mm thick
Material: 18k White gold
Australian RRP: AUD $2,117,650
For more information: Patek.com.au
Another exceptional release during this year’s Watchs & Wonders from Patek Philippe was the Quadruple Complication. A watch made for the connoisseurs and perfect for the high-end collector, the Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication features a minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph and a instantaneous perpetual calendar. This isn’t just four complications combined together, as the watch also features several innovations, two of which are patented.
The Calibre R CHR 27 PS QI movement is made up of 799 components, and while the demanding complications are integrated together, Patek Philippe has been able to optimise the mechanics so that the split-seconds chronograph consumes minimal energy when paused. There’s also an “anti-backlash clutch wheel” built into the chronograph to eliminate friction and improve precision. What makes this Quadruple Complication stand out is how it pushes both artistry and engineering limits. It’s a watch that becomes a showpiece in any collection, where price truly is no object but ingenuity still matters.
Richard Mille RM 75-01
Reference: RM 75-01
Case Size: 48.15mm x 39.6mm x 12.8mm thick
Material: Transparent synthetic sapphire in pale pink, blue or clear
International RRP: $2.02M (Clear Sapphire) / $2.25M (Blue Sapphire) & $2.26M (Pink Sapphire)
For more information: Richardmille.com
Teh Richard Mille RM 75-01 is the brand at full spectacle. This is a watch that blends architectural boldness with uncompromising engineering. The stunning sapphire case is presented in variants of either clear, pale blue or light pink. The movement inside is hand-wound, with a flying tourbillon and a flying barrel (a double suspension aesthetic, almost like the calibre is floating in space). The finishing on the timepiece alone, from the sapphire-blasted surfaces, hand chamfered angles, concave wheel chamfering, makes this a timepeice for those who don’t just buy a watch, but buys the craftsmanship, rarity and visual impact.
For the ultra-wealthy collector, the RM 75-01 is more than just a conversation starter, it’s a trophey of modern haute horlogerie. While it’s doesn’t feature multiple complications as some of the other pieces on this list, the RM 75-01 is featured for its complexity of case material, finishing labour, limited production and the sheer audacity of it’s design. With a retail price north of USD 2 million, it sits in the realm where price truly is no object.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Reference: 6510V/110T-128C
Case Size: 44.5mm x 13.1mm thick
Material: Brushed & polished grade 5 titanium
International RRP: Price on request.
For more information: Vacheron-constantin.com
This watch is Vacheron Constantin trying to do the impossible and achieving it: putting a grand complication into a sporty, modern-look Overseas case. If we have learnt anything about Vacheron Constantin so far, its that impossible is just a word. The perfect addition, among many, to celebrate the brand’s 270th anniversary this year, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface houses the Calibre 2755 QP, a manually-wound movement boasting 602 components and combining a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, plus a power reserve indicator.
For the ultra-wealthy collector, this watch is a grail-level addition. It’s the kind of watch you show off, not for its subtlety, but for its audacity. Placing something like this in a collection signals you’re not just collecting complications; you’re collecting statements. If ever there was a piece that embodies “when price is no object,” this is it.