Before the month is up, allow me to recount five more pieces that came out of Geneva Watch Days! These pieces, however, might have slipped under the radar for you – but don’t worry, because here they are now!
Geneva Watch Days 2025 is well behind us now, but what a show it was! Marking yet another spectacular week for the watch industry, the event brought together more than sixty brands to unveil their latest creations. While the fair has traditionally been known for spotlighting independent watchmakers, it’s no surprise that more mainstream brands have joined the fray as the 2025 edition gathered momentum.
We at Watch Advice were grateful to have boots on the ground for the entire week. Live from Geneva, we were able to share the very best mechanical marvels with our readers back in Australia, continuing what we love most: nurturing the growing watch culture in the Land Down Under.
Of course, as busy as we were, we couldn’t see everything — we’re only human, after all! But before we turn the page to October, let me walk you through five more standout pieces from the event. Each is mechanically impressive, visually striking, and absolutely worth your attention — so read on and discover them now.
Tutima Glashütte Patria Titanium
When it comes to German watchmaking, there are a handful of names people gravitate towards. Yet Tutima Glashütte is often overlooked, despite deserving similar recognition. Founded in 1927 as one of Glashütte’s premier watch companies, Tutima has consistently delivered precision timekeeping to the highest German horological standards.
Rather than leaning entirely into the elegance of Glashütte Original or A. Lange & Söhne, or the uncompromising practicality of Sinn and Stowa, Tutima occupies a middle ground — an adaptable alternative with the same commitment to craftsmanship. At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, the Saxon brand introduced a new entry in its refined Patria line, blending the collection’s classical character with the modern versatility of titanium.
All the familiar details of the Patria remain: the enlarged crown and guard, lumed lance hands, and traditional small seconds layout. Titanium brings added comfort and durability, allowing the watch to wear smaller and more conveniently than its 43mm 18k gold counterpart. The model further distinguishes itself with a subtle pyramid-textured dial that enhances light play, while still delivering the same horological pedigree through the in-house, manual-wind Calibre 617.
- Reference: 6612-03 (Titanium Graphite, above)
- Case Size: 41mm
- Material: Grade 5 titanium
- Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$14,500
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to Tutima.com!
Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton
If you’ve read my other ICYMI — the Geneva Watch Week one — you’ll know that Favre Leuba’s inclusion here should come as no surprise. Touted as the second-oldest watch brand in existence (with Blancpain taking top billing), the 288-year-old company was recently reimagined and brought back into the spotlight.
That doesn’t mean they’ve forgotten their past, though. The new leadership has worked tirelessly to restore Favre Leuba to even a fraction of its former glory. And while there’s still a journey ahead, their latest releases at Geneva Watch Days 2025 have set them on a promising path. This year, they returned with the debut of the Chief Skeleton. Offered in four black DLC references and three steel ones, the collection represents Favre Leuba’s next ambitious step forward.
The Chief design is already distinctive—drawing inspiration from the bold case shapes of the 1970s — but the addition of a delicately skeletonised movement makes it even more striking. Finished in 18k gold PVD for the steel case, or black PVD for the DLC case, the skeletonised FLS01 movement steals the show from what is already an eye-catching design. It won’t be for everyone, but it’s a finely crafted timepiece that underscores the brand’s renewed dedication to the art of watchmaking. And full marks to them for keeping it neatly symmetrical with the escapement positioned at six o’clock.
- Reference: 00.20105.103.01.301 (Steel/Black rubber, above)
- Case Size: 40mm
- Material: Stainless steel / Black DLC steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 3,450 (Steel) / CHF 3,550 (Black DLC steel)
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to FavreLeuba.com!
David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk
Even though both Tutima and Favre Leuba are underrated, they remain well-established heritage brands. So, it makes sense that Geneva Watch Days also draws independent watchmakers, who use the stage to showcase their unique craftsmanship. If you’re a savvy reader, you’ll know this isn’t the first time I’ve mentioned David Candaux—the master watchmaker was previously featured in the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives.
This year, his eponymous brand adds the DC7 Blue Hawk to an already unconventional catalogue of masterpieces. With features like a twelve o’clock, 30° inclined tourbillon and the retractable ‘magic crown,’ it certainly earns that title. Hand-crafted in Candaux’s Le Solliat manufacture, the watch comes in a bold 44mm titanium case, paired with an anodised titanium sandwich dial. Rather than a traditional sandwich, however, the DC7 Blue Hawk applies lumed indexes to a second layer of anodised titanium beneath the first, creating striking light play and a distinct sense of depth.
Powering it all is the meticulously built Cal. H70, made entirely by Candaux himself. While its finishing isn’t ostentatious, it remains fully hand-crafted and ensures nothing distracts from the true spectacle on the front of the watch. With only eight pieces in existence, you can be sure that aside from the other seven, you’ll never see anything quite like it anywhere else in the world. Perhaps CHF 149,000 for a timepiece is justifiable after all…
- Reference: N/A (David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk)
- Case Size: 44mm
- Material: Grade 5 titanium
- International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 149,000 (Limited to 8 pieces)
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to DavidCandaux.com!
De Bethune DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon
Is your favourite colour blue? Then you’ll love the David Candaux DC7 Blue Hawk. What’s that? Not blue enough for you? Well, De Bethune have just the treat. Since stumbling upon it by accident, the independent brand has mastered a unique case material: thermally oxidised titanium. Not only does the process strengthen the surface through intense heat treatment, but it also transforms the metal into an extraordinary, cosmic shade of blue.
This is where the story of the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon begins. While it may seem odd to name a watch with a phrase like ‘kind of,’ it’s surprisingly apt here. Both the case and dial are heat-treated to achieve this striking hue — a shade that feels like the king of all blues (well, second only to B.B. King).
But before we get too carried away with the colour, it’s worth noting the exceptional craftsmanship behind every De Bethune creation, all of which shines through here. With a design language uniquely their own, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon comes in a 38.7mm case, paired with the vertical crown and articulating floating lugs that have become hallmarks of the brand. At its core sits the DB2005, a twin-barrel, self-regulating tourbillon movement whose architecture mirrors that of the dial. The result is a bold, hyper-futuristic design that only De Bethune could realise — and one of the coolest watches you’re ever likely to encounter.
- Reference: N/A (De Bethune DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon)
- Case Size: 38.7mm
- Material: ‘Kind of’ Blue anodised titanium
- International Recommended Retail Price: US$225,000
For more information on this timepiece, head on over to DeBethune.ch!
Akhor Le Temps en Équilibre
While Geneva Watch Days serves as a great platform for brands to reintroduce themselves to the watch world, it’s not just the same faces every year. This year marks the arrival of an entirely new player in the industry: Akhor, founded by CEO Anissa Bader, COO Riccardo Montfardino, lead designer Laurent Davoli, and head of movement creation Daniel Martinez.
Together, they’ve not only launched the brand but also unveiled a debut collection built around a completely new movement. Named Le Temps en Équilibre (French for “time in balance”), the line features a 39mm cushion case and nine variations across steel, gold, and diamond-set references. The central dial, offered in either honeycomb or sunray-brushed finishing, almost entirely conceals the hands, making them appear as though they’re in constant motion.
It’s a poetic design choice, yet no less practical than the average watch with Arabic numerals and legible indexes. Powering it is Akhor’s own manual-wind AK-10 movement. While straightforward, with a 4Hz (28,800 VpH) beat rate and a 60-hour power reserve, it stands out for its distinctive finishing radiating from the escapement — and as the birth of a brand-new calibre in the industry!
- Reference: N/A (Le Temps en Équilibre, Steel – White Sunburst)
- Case Size: 39mm
- Material: Steel
- International Recommended Retail Price: CHF 28,000