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As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out!

When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time.

Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stanley, Rolex earns over three times more than its closest competitor. Their designs are so timeless they’ve been copied by just about everyone. And their dominance in pop culture is so strong that they ranked as the third-most name-dropped luxury brand in music — behind only Gucci and Louis Vuitton, according to Fenwick.

Of course, that kind of dominance makes it easy to judge the book by its cover. That’s why you always hear the same argument, repeated like a broken record: Rolex is boring. And to be fair, there’s a degree of truth to that — in the same way John Cena’s heel run this year fizzled out once the novelty wore off, or how people started making up wild rumours about Pedro Pascal just because they were tired of seeing him cast in everything.

However, there are a few exceptions to that rule — if you look closely enough. Rolex’s longevity has given the brand room to experiment far beyond what its standard catalogue might suggest. From the Oysterquartz models of the 1970s to the often-overlooked Cellini collection, the British-born, German-founded, Swiss-made giant has innovated far more than most people give it credit for.

In 2025, that spirit of quiet experimentation seems to have stepped into the spotlight, with Rolex emerging from its iron shell more than it has in recent memory. The most significant proof of this was the Land-Dweller, unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 to the shock and awe of many — or at least, of those who hadn’t already seen the leaks.

Related Reading: World’s First Rolex Land-Dweller Review In The Wild!

But there was another, more understated player in Rolex’s renewed creative streak: the 1908 Settimo. Building off the success of the original 1908 collection from 2023, the Settimo arrived as a fresh face in a still-young lineage. And while all eyes initially turned to the Land-Dweller, it wouldn’t be long before attention began to settle — no pun intended — on the Settimo instead.

Related Reading: Rolex Unveils The Elegant New Perpetual 1908 With Settimo Bracelet

First Impressions

Even before I had the privilege of seeing the 1908 Settimo in person, I knew it was going to be a knockout. Given Rolex’s omnipresence in the watch industry, of course, anything less would have turned out to be a major disappointment – but my level of excitement for this watch extended far beyond the prospect of a new timepiece with the five-pointed crown on the dial.

As I’ve repeated (somewhat incessantly) throughout my time with Watch Advice, I’ve always been a big fan of ‘off-the-beaten-path’ timepieces. I’m sure this isn’t exactly the most unique collector’s perspective, especially in the context of Rolex, but the oddities of horology have always had the biggest pull on my watch taste. Model lines like the Air King, Milgauss (please bring it back), and the Cellini all massively appealed to me.

I always took a particular interest in the latter two; The Milgauss is such a historically compelling collection, and the Cellini was similarly distinctive for its unique aesthetics and functions amongst the largely pragmatic Rolex roster. If it’s good enough for a former President of the United States, then they must be doing something right.

Related Reading: Introducing The All New Rolex Perpetual 1908

So, as they swapped into the 1908 collection, I was immediately intrigued about this next big step in Rolex’s dress watch offerings. While I’d like to think that I knew that, one day, I would be able to handle one in the wild, I felt that I would’ve had a better shot getting struck by lightning. That is, until I heard from the Watch Advice team that we could; And after seeing the Watches and Wonders 2025 Rolex lineup, I knew which one I wanted to get my hands on first.

The Design

Despite the extreme decadence that comes with wearing a full yellow gold watch, what first caught my attention about the Rolex 1908 Settimo was its brilliant white dial. Providing a stark contrast to the rich sea of yellow, it made the watch as distinctive as is it legible.

Something I wasn’t aware of, however, is that the 1908 Settimo has an alternative colourway with a black dial; All the promotional material I’d seen thus far focussed on the white dial watch you see here. When Chamath and I had a quick sidebar between shooting to Google what it looked like, we – somewhat embarrassingly – pulled the exact same face from that Anthony ‘Spice’ Adams meme of him in the yellow jacket.

In any case, the white dial rendition is still a stunner, and well suited to any dress occasion at hand. The only interruptions to the stark white are the three quarter-hour Arabic numerals, the stick indexes – all applied in yellow gold, as is the Rolex logo – and a black printed railroad minute track with slightly chunkier markers denoting every five minutes.

I particularly love the quarter-hour numerals, as they appear to be of a modern and contemporary design yet still draw from Rolex’s archives. The eagle-eyed Rolex historian may have already seen this, as the quarter-hour indexes draw from the numeral designs of heritage watches like the 40s era Ref. 3725 Bubbleback. The stick indexes, though not as self-referential as the numerals, are similarly thoughtfully designed – bevelled to catch light from any angle, and subtly pointed towards the centre of the dial, bringing your eyes to the hands.

With its Breguet/Cartier-style hour hand and a sword minute hand, the two come together serendipitously, merging contemporary trends with a heritage flair. If anything, Rolex’s 1908 Settimo is also the brand’s latest demonstration of consistency in design – given the handset’s striking similarity to those found on their cousins, the Submariner. Of course, these have both been bevelled to allow for greater lightplay and dimensionality, which is only further enhanced by what lies below.

Set into a divot at the six o’clock position is the small seconds sub dial. It divides the minute track and adjoining indexes, dropping off sharply to make way for both it and the ‘SWISS MADE’ dial text. The second hand is also a thin sword, with a black printed track beneath for accurate setting; a notion made apparent by the ‘Superlative Chronometer’ text above. I’ll get to that later, though.

Moving back out of the dial, there is one interesting detail – or lack thereof – with the Rolex 1908 Settimo. If you’re familiar with other Rolex models, the omission of the ‘ROLEXROLEXROLEX’ engravings along the rehaut (the periphery of the watch that separates the crystal from the dial) may seem like a daring choice. While this is a quirk that both this model and the recent Land-Dweller line share, rest assured that your serial number remains exactly where you expect it to be on this model.

One could argue that they could’ve done more with the dial. Compared to even their most basic models, the Rolex 1908 Settimo could be seen as bare. However, that’s the art of a good dress watch – doing as much as you can with as little as possible. This isn’t an exception that I’m making for Rolex, either, as brands across all price ranges are known for maximalising their minimalism. From NOMOS to Vacheron Constantin, the dress watch is an exercise in restraint done at the highest level.

That would be one half of the argument, as the other half makes itself clear in one radiant, golden silhouette. Given the extravagance of the rest of the watch, it makes sense that the Rolex 1908 Settimo pulls punches somewhere. If the art is as complex as its frame, then you won’t know where to look!

The 18k yellow gold Rolex 1908 Settimo is entirely high-polished, with nary a brushed surface to be found anywhere. Again, this makes sense given the context, but that also makes this timepiece a scratch and smudge magnet. It’s an issue that comes with the territory of a polished watch, but is no less troublesome – especially when no alternative surfaces exist. As I said in my review of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic, though, just carry a microfibre with you and you’ll be set.

The case profile of the Rolex 1908 Settimo recalls the familiar roundness found in other Rolex models like the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual. Sitting atop is a stepped bezel, adorned with a refined — albeit more subtle — fluted finish. Interestingly, the fluting appears to stop about halfway up the bezel, transitioning into a polished section that leads to the crystal.

It’s an unexpected choice, considering the fluted bezel is one of Rolex’s most iconic design signatures. But perhaps a fully fluted bezel would have overwhelmed the watch’s other refined details. As it stands, the restrained design works beautifully — almost drawing your eye back to the dial with quiet insistence.

Along the side of the case, a similarly fluted crown protrudes confidently, embossed with the Rolex coronet. Eagle-eyed enthusiasts may have noticed a lack of dots or lines beneath the crown — and for good reason. It concerns Rolex’s ‘secret language’ of water resistance indicators, which typically denote Twinlock or Triplock crown systems. Since the 1908 Settimo is rated to just 50 meters of water resistance and uses a push-pull crown, it falls into neither category.

Connected to the case is the crowning feature of this model: the Settimo bracelet. Named after the Italian word for ‘seventh,’ the bracelet consists of seven high-polished links that taper elegantly into a hidden clasp. It integrates seamlessly with the case — no end links here — creating a smooth contour that enhances both lightness and aesthetic intrigue. While some may lament the absence of end links, I’d argue the design is more elegant for it.

As seen in the famed President bracelet, the hidden clasp opens with a gentle tug on a polished Rolex crown at the base. Inside, you’ll find the same engraved flourishes you’d expect from Rolex — subtle, but unmistakable. Finally, the caseback is a show in of itself — a rarity for Rolex, which has traditionally preferred closed backs. The 1908 Settimo features a transparent sapphire caseback that proudly displays the movement within. When the original 1908 debuted in 2023, it marked the first time since the Cellini Prince that Rolex used a display caseback. That same year, Rolex also unveiled see-through casebacks on two other models — the Le Mans Daytona and the platinum ice-blue Daytona — signalling a bold, if selective, shift in design philosophy. Ultimately, though, the Rolex 1908 Settimo showcases how thoughtful additions and subtle refinements can come together to create something truly exceptional.

How It Wears

The Rolex 1908 Settimo is sized to a modern and universally wearable set of dimensions. With a 39mm case diameter, a 45.2mm lug-to-lug, and at just 9.5mm thick, on paper this timepiece can be worn by practically anybody. However, though it has similar dimensions to, for example, a Seiko Speedtimer SSC813, the wearing experience dramatically differs from other watches of a similar silhouette.

This is because of two simple reasons: thickness and weight, where the former makes the 1908 Settimo’s frame feel more spread out across the wrist – and the latter is due to the use of 18k yellow gold, which of course is significantly denser than steel. So, in that sense, this watch is certainly one that should be experienced first – though I highly doubt the luxurious price point and Rolex’s trademark exclusivity make it a first-time blind buy for many.

Once you get past the initial quirks of the wearing experience, the Rolex 1908 Settimo feels like a million bucks on the wrist — in more ways than one. As someone who doesn’t own any gold or platinum watches, I wasn’t sure how I’d take to yellow gold. But despite its density, it’s genuinely a joy to wear. And, given that all my friends, family, partner, and peers have told me how good I look in yellow gold, it was in no uncertain terms an ego booster while I had it on.

Naturally, with the debut of an entirely new bracelet design, it would be remiss of me not to weigh in. Unsurprisingly, it wears beautifully. I expected nothing less, though, given Rolex is also the home of two other bracelets praised for their comfort – that being the President and Jubilee. I’ll admit, though, it does snag the odd hair or two, and I’m not exactly hairy on the wrist.

What really makes the difference, I think, is Rolex’s exceptional approach to bracelet design. Their multi-link bracelets are always flat on the underside, and that alone does wonders for long-term comfort. You don’t get those odd pressure marks on your wrist after a day’s wear. The links, like the case itself, are also impressively thin, which only reinforces this ‘second skin’ sensation the Settimo seems to aim for.

If I had one minor nitpick, it would be the clasp. As much as I fawn over the Rolex hidden clasp — which looks great and works just as well — it felt just a touch too long. It’s far from a dealbreaker, but from certain angles — especially when viewing the underside — the clasp’s length made the bracelet wrap around a little more sharply than I’d like. That said, I can absolutely see the appeal of the leather option, but truthfully I can’t imagine taking it off the Settimo bracelet. It just feels right!

In my eyes, then, I think Rolex have put themselves into a really good position with the debut of the Settimo bracelet. While the Crown moves a lot slower in comparison to other watch companies of a similar calibre, I don’t doubt that at least one higher-up in the brand is considering the thought of slowly rolling out more versions of the bracelet for the rest of the 1908 line. Perhaps that might not be the case — keeping the Settimo unique to the yellow gold 1908 is cool and all — but imagine that it eventually comes to the platinum reference with the ice blue dial. Wouldn’t that be a sight?

The Movement

For those new to Rolex — and even seasoned vets of the brand — you might not be familiar with the beauty of Rolex’s watch movements. And though it seems somewhat foolish for the more experienced of us watch lovers to not know what a Rolex movement looks like, it is, historically, by design.

Rolex, while known as the luxury standard of horology today, built up their reputation primarily by making watches that could work in practically any environment. Naturally, this meant that they didn’t need flashy presentation — which is why many of the watches in Rolex’s catalogue are completely sealed off. For a dress watch, however, presentation is everything – and the Rolex 1908 Settimo, like its Cellini predecessor, certainly do not disappoint in that department.

So, what do you get when you combine the sharp elegance of a dress watch with the demanding standards of Rolex? You get the in-house Calibre 7140! Beautifully finished and deadly accurate, the beating heart of the 1908 Settimo perhaps best represents the Crown’s vision for the watch beyond its outside looks alone. With a 66-hour power reserve and the luxury standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) beatrate, the Cal. 7140 has been outfitted with all the typical Rolex fixings that have solidified them as horological royalty. Excuse me while I go full nerd here…

First, there’s the hairspring, which plays a crucial role in regulating the timekeeping of the watch. In this case, it’s made from Syloxi — a Rolex-patented compound of silicon and silicon oxide — which provides enhanced magnetic resistance and reduces the likelihood of accuracy interference. Next up are the Paraflex shock absorbers, which help ensure that the shock resistance – say from drops or shakes – is greatly reduced, especially on the balance wheel staff.

Finally, there is the Chronergy escapement, another Rolex innovation that significantly improves the watch’s energy efficiency. This is achieved through a redesign of the escape wheel and pallet fork, helping to minimise energy loss during transmission from the mainspring to the escapement. I’d go deeper into the mechanics, but honestly, it would take me about five hours to properly explain — luckily, Sam already broke it all down in a past article. So if you’re curious, don’t be afraid to check that one out!

Related Reading: The Modern Watch Escapement – Rolex’s Chronergy Escapement

It’s for these reasons — compounded by Rolex’s famously demanding standards — that the Calibre 7140 has been officially certified as a Superlative Chronometer. But what does that even mean? Well, it signifies that the movement isn’t just COSC-certified; it also meets Rolex’s own, more stringent internal benchmarks. In practical terms, that means every Rolex carrying this prestigious certification is accurate to within just two seconds per day — in either direction. That’s an extraordinary level of precision for a purely mechanical movement, with only a few rare exceptions matching it.

Of course, the movement’s technical brilliance is only half the story. In an incredibly rare move for Rolex, the Cal. 7140 has been given the full display caseback treatment. At last, watch lovers can once again admire the inner workings of the world’s most iconic brand. It’s evident that Rolex has gone well beyond its usual standards in finishing. This includes their own interpretation of Côtes de Genève, recognizable by the polished groove between each stripe.

Interestingly, though, the movement does feature components made from real 18k yellow gold — including the engraved rotor — but the chatons themselves are only gold-coloured. They’re machined directly into the bridges and bordered in gold, which gives them a refined look without actually being solid gold. Perhaps this was done to streamline production or servicing, but it doesn’t take away from the overall visual appeal.

Still, it does beg the question: Is that all? For most people — especially loyal Rolex fans and general watch enthusiasts — the mere fact that they can finally admire the inner workings of their beloved brand will be more than enough. But I can’t help feeling that the Cal. 7140 could’ve used just a bit more TLC, especially considering its rarity as one of Rolex’s few display-caseback movements. Yes, adding things like hand-bevelling and other intricate finishings would’ve driven up the price, but even for a dress watch that leans heavily on restraint, I think Rolex may have pulled one punch too many. That said, to the average enthusiast’s eye, it’s still a gorgeous movement — and a whole lot more than we usually get from the Crown.

Final Thoughts

Though their beauty is undeniable — and their historical significance equally so — it hasn’t stopped people in the watch community from debating one inescapable question: Is the dress watch dead? It’s a hot topic that’s lingered in the industry for quite some time now, and not purely out of conjecture; Matt actually wrote an article on this very subject not too long ago. Given the still-ongoing dominance of adaptable sports watches — a trend that Rolex is very much part of — there’s a valid argument to be made in support of that claim. But this is also just how trends work: they don’t rise and fall in straight lines. They swing, more like a pendulum. This is basically what Matt said, too:

“Is the dress watch dead? Maybe for now, with the time we’re living in and the trends that are around today it is. Or maybe it’s just hibernating, waiting to be woken up when times have changed. And this is what fashion does. It ebbs and flows, it’s cyclical. Trends comes and go, and they come back around again. So maybe in the not too distant future, we’ll all be dressing up again, heading to work in suits and ties, when going out or travelling, putting on our Sunday best. But for now, my Sunday best is a pair of shorts and a Polo shirt, and on my wrist is a sports watch. And I’m perfectly ok with this!”

With Casual More The Norm These Days, Is The Dress Watch Dead?

So, with all the information available leading up to that article’s release in 2023, it’s easy to understand why the traditional dress watch might struggle to find its footing in today’s fashion environment. But I don’t believe its success depends on opportunity simply knocking — it’s about building a new door entirely. What the dress watch truly needs is a contemporary reinvigoration — not one that nudges it closer to the world of sports watches, but one that aligns it more closely with modern sensibilities.

This is where I believe Rolex has truly succeeded with the 1908 Settimo — and with the 1908 line as a whole. The task of modernising a timepiece so rooted in a specific era and attitude is far easier said than done, especially when you’re dealing with all the unspoken rules that come with dress watches. Yet, Rolex has managed to do just that while still putting its own unique spin on the subject. Despite its obviously decadent image, I could actually see myself — albeit thirty years from now — comfortably wearing the 1908 Settimo with Matt’s version of ‘Sunday best’: shorts and a polo.

It seems, then, that the Rolex 1908 Settimo has successfully earned its place among the brand’s star-studded catalogue. In both aesthetics and mechanical brilliance, it’s undoubtedly a timepiece to behold; Executed to a level I like to call ‘annoyingly perfect’ — like that kid in high school who was somehow the rugby captain, valedictorian, and lead in the school musical all at once. And while it may not be ‘perfect’ in every literal facet – particularly in its clasp design and movement finishing – it certainly does more than enough to blow the mind of anyone standing within a 30-foot radius of its wearer.

That being said, while Rolex undoubtedly towers over every other watch brand in terms of market share, they’ve stepped into an arena packed with fierce competitors. But here’s the kicker — at AU$56,700, the Rolex 1908 Settimo might actually be one of the best value-for-money options when it comes to full-gold dress watches in the industry. This isn’t just conjecture, either. Omega’s full-gold dress offerings, for instance, include the Moonshine™ gold Aqua Terra and Constellation models, priced at AU$69,225 and AU$75,300 respectively. Cartier’s yellow gold Santos de Cartier Large? A whopping AU$69,000.

Sure, there are viable alternatives at a similar price point — like the AU$50,300 Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru or the AU$52,500 Tank Louis Cartier Large in rose gold — but both lean heavily into classical dress watch aesthetics. The Rolex 1908 Settimo, by contrast, feels more adaptable and modern in comparison. Then there are the ‘big boys’ — the Patek Philippe Calatrava or Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collections — but neither come with a full-gold bracelet, which would likely skyrocket their price tags if they did. Rolex, on the other hand, stays remarkably stalwart.

In the watch world, we see so many creations in this world that belong entirely to the engineers — perfectly functional, but devoid of soul. And on the other side, we have the purely artistic — beautiful, but lacking structure. I’m glad to declare that the Rolex 1908 Settimo is different. It’s the lovechild of both worlds, where engineering precision and artistic brilliance come together seamlessly. Thus, the Rolex 1908 Settimo is a fantastic timepiece that leaves me with very few notes. It took quite some time to identify even the smallest chinks in the armour — and honestly, if I were just wearing the watch as a fan rather than reviewing it in-depth, I doubt I’d have a bad word to say for a very, very, very long time.

Reference: M52508-0008

Specifications

• Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 45.2mm lug-to-lug x 9.5mm thick
• Case Material: Polished 18k yellow gold with fluted bezel
• Dial: Intense white with yellow gold hour indexes, Arabic numeral quarter markers, & Breguet/Sword hands
• Movement: Automatic Cal. 7140 with small seconds complication, Syloxi hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, Chronergy escapement, COSC & Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certification
• Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
• Power Reserve: 66h
• Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
• Strap: 18k yellow gold seven-link Settimo bracelet with concealed folding clasp

Australian RRP: AU$56,700

Availability: By inquiry only, in-store or online at all authorised retailers. For more information, visit Rolex.com.

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