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The new Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronograph 42 brings together vintage charm with modern refinement. This isn’t just another diver’s watch; it’s a bold evolution of a Breitling icon!

In the words of Breitling CEO Georges Kern, “The Superocean Heritage is our most elegant sea watch, and this update is all about refinement.” That’s exactly what this new Superocean Heritage Collection is all about: taking the ideal foundations laid down by the original and enhancing them for today’s wearer. The end result is a timepiece which is unmistakably Breitling, but with a sleeker, refined, and more polished execution.

The Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronograph has always been more than just a handsome divers’ watch; it’s a timepiece that carries decades of evolution, refined designs, and Breitling’s DNA. Breitling’s most elegant sea watch was first released in 1957, and at the time of its release, it had a very different look compared to other dive watches on the market. The first Superocean time-only model (ref. 1004) and the world’s first dedicated dive chronograph (ref. 807) weren’t created to just explore the underwater world, but to look damn good while doing it!

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The now signature designs like the spear-and-arrow hands, anodized rotating bezel, and the naturally sleek proportions made the Superocean collection a fan favourite for those stylish adventurers. Over the years, the Superocean collection has seen many updates, both cosmetic and mechanical. From early models featuring ETA-based movements to being fitted with one of the brand’s most reliable and iconic movements, the in-house B01 movement, the collection has matured significantly without losing its retro charm.

Design-wise, the Superocean Heritage collection has remained inspired by the original 1957 releases. The oversized hour indices, the large hands, the clean and crisp rotating bezel, to the signature mesh bracelet, these details are all reminiscent of the golden age of dive watches. Whether in steel, two-tone, full gold, or all black look, the Superocean Heritage collection has continued to expand with a variety of different sizes and colours, all the while maintaining that cool retro-style.

The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection Time Only Review

The latest update to the Superocean Heritage collection sees Breitling refine the case dimensions even further, while giving the time and date models the brand new in-house B31 calibre movement. These new upgrades are welcome additions to the collection, as you’ll see from our reviews that the timepieces wear much better compared to the predecessors, especially on smaller wrists like mine. Matt took the time and date models for review, and loved how the small refinements of the timepieces surprisingly made a big difference on the wrist overall.

I personally jumped at the chance of taking the Superocean Heritage Chronograph models for review. These timepieces are one of the favourite dive watches on the market. Rewind back the years, and after graduating from engineering, I treated myself to a Breitling Superocean Heritage II Limited Edition 44mm model. Still to this day, this was one of my favourite dive watches, with the beautiful sunburst blue dial mixing perfectly well against the black polished ceramic bezel, while the mesh bracelet enhances the level of elegance not often found in traditional dive watches. That watch sparked my love for the Superocean line, so reviewing the latest Chronograph 42 model felt like coming full circle.

Superocean Heritage Chronograph Initial Impressions

As someone whose previously owned the Superocean Heritage II Chronograph Limited Edition, I’ve always had a soft spot for this collection. As mentioned earlier, this watch marked a significant milestone in my life, and while it carried a sentimental value, the watch introduced me to the refined and sporty world of Breitling. But if I’m being honest, the 44mm case size of the Superocean Heritage II Chronograph always wore a little too large on my slimmer wrists. While I loved the bulky presence of the timepiece, over time, it became clear that the 44mm case wasn’t the most practical for me on my daily wear. And trust me when I say I wanted to wear this watch as much as I could, the comfort of the mesh bracelet combined with the timepiece’s beautiful aesthetics made it almost perfect, but the sheer size on my slim wrists meant it would sit too top-heavy and a bit awkwardly sometimes.

When Breitling announced 42mm versions of the Superocean Heritage Chronograph, it immediately piqued my interest. So when Chamath asked which of the latest Breitlings I wanted for review, there was only one clear answer. Before I strapped the watch onto my wrist, the first thing I noticed was the refined aesthetics. The case size is now slimmer, the dual chronograph counter layout freeing up more space on the dial, and the elegant beauty of the now integrated mesh bracelet, one that my previously owned Superocean didn’t feature. There are so many subtle detail changes from my previously owned model to this latest update that it feels like Breitling has gone through the entire watch with a fine-toothed comb to polish the details while keeping the soul and heritage of the piece entirely intact. Sometimes, working in this industry can be good and bad. Good for having so much access to a variety of timepieces that I get to wear, bad for not having enough money to buy all the pieces I love!

Superocean Heritage Chronograph Case Design

While these new Superocean Heritage Chronograph models have subtle changes throughout the whole timepiece, the most significant change comes from the case size. Previously, Breitling only offered the Superocean Heritage Chronograph in 44mm and 46 mm case variants. This new update sees Breitling remove these two case sizes entirely and opt for a 42mm case size only for the chronograph. While this may seem like a small adjustment on paper, it makes a significant difference on the wrist and wearability of the timepiece, especially for those with slimmer wrists like mine. The more compact dimensions give the watch balance and comfort, making it far more wearable. This, I feel, is a smart move by Breitling, as it opens up the collection to a wider audience without sacrificing the collection’s trademark presence.

The case design of the Superocean Heritage models is a blend of sharp, sporty aesthetics combined with elegant finishing. The case features a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces that create visual depth. The satin-brushed finishing of the lugs and contrasts beautifully against the polished sides of the case, along with the polished knurled crown and vintage-style chronograph pushers. Even the bezel continues this theme, with the bezel edge having a knurled design for added grip, and a polished finish which reflects light beautifully.

While the blue dial comes with full steel, the black dial variant features an 18k red gold bezel, which is complemented by an 18k red gold crown and chronograph pushers. While some prefer the two-tone look, I personally think Breitling could have hit it out of the park with a full 18k red gold case. Especially considering that black and gold/red gold is a winning colour combination. A fully gold execution would’ve elevated the luxury factor even further, giving it that unapologetic boldness that collectors of statement pieces often love.

The ceramic bezel insert also gives off a mirror-like shine, which looks stunning in person, adding to the luxury element of this tool watch. However, this aesthetic does come with a trade off. While in person the timepiece’s look fantastic, photographing it can be quite difficult, as the along with the cambered sapphire crystal and the shine of the ceramic bezel, it catches reflections and glare quite easily.

Breitling’s attention to detail continues with the sharp lugs and case lines, which give the Superocean Heritage Chronographs a more aggressive silhouette. However, this is balanced by the smooth curvature of the chronograph pushers and crown, which makes the watch refined with a touch of elegance. This makes this not only a great tool watch, but also great for daily and formal wear, something that is complemented further with the newly designed integrated mesh bracelet. As a dive watch, the practicality isn’t forgotten either, as the case offers 200m of water resistance, which makes it more than capable of handling real-world aquatic adventures.

Superocean Heritage Chronograph Dial Design

Breitling is presenting this new Superocean Heritage Chronograph collection in three dial colours: black, blue, and green. While the green dial looks stunning, I only had the chance to wear the black and blue models for the review. Both colours, as expected, offer different aesthetics, which is enhanced further by the colour of the bracelet. The timepieces come with the same dial layout, which includes the dual-chronograph sub-dials and the date window at 6 o’clock.

For this new Superocean Heritage collection (which includes the time and date models), Breitling has redesigned the hands and indices. Inspired by the 1957 Superocean Heritage models, the hour hand has a unique triangle point, while the minute hand is almost sword-like. The 12 o’clock hour marker is also done in reference to the 1957 model, in Art Deco style. The hands, indices, and even the chronograph seconds hand feature white Superlumi-Nova, providing excellent night-time visibility.

The blue dial variant of the Superocean Heritage Chronograph has a gradient effect, where the centre of the dial starts a deep blue, which transitions to a slightly lighter shade of blue on the edges of the dial. I’m a big fan of the blue and white colour combo (my Superocean Heritage II dial was also blue!) so being able to wear the same design on my wrist again brought back a wave of nostalgia. The blue dial is sporty, summery, and effortlessly stylish, making it just as versatile at the beach as it is under a blazer.

While normally I don’t like the date window not being colour matched to the dial (so that it blends in more), in this case, Breitling has executed the design brilliantly. This could easily be a detail that flies under the radar, but having the date window with its white date wheel, sitting on the 6 o’clock hour marker, is the perfect placement. This is because it counterbalances the larger 12 o’clock art-deco style hour marker, resulting in a dial layout that feels visually anchored and well-proportioned.

The black dial, while featuring the same design elements as its counterpart, is elevated through the 18k red gold details. The hands, sub-dial outline, and hands along with the indices are all adorned with 18k red gold, giving the watch a richer, luxurious appearance. As I’ve said earlier, the black and gold colour combination works extremely well together, thanks to the warm contrasting aesthetic, which in this case makes the Superocean Heritage Chronograph feel less like a utilitarian tool and more like a refined statement piece.

Breitling B01 Calibre Movement

Inside these new Superocean Heritage Chronographs beats one of Breitling’s proudest achievements: the in-house Breitling 01 movement. The calibre represents a pivotal turning point for the brand, making it a true manufacturer with in-house movements. The B01 movement was designed entirely in-house and has since become the backbone of Breitling’s modern chronograph lineup. The movement in this collection elevates the timepieces well beyond the aesthetics. This isn’t just a good-looking diver with vintage charm; it’s powered by serious mechanical muscle built for performance and longevity. The B01 calibre is able to push out an impressive 70-hour power reserve while operating at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH), ensuring a high level of timekeeping accuracy.

The B01 calibre features both a vertical clutch and a column wheel mechanism. The use of a vertical clutch ensures a seamless engagement of the chronograph, while the column wheel gives a crisp feel when the pushers are engaged, providing great feedback for the user.

Turning the timepiece over reveals the transparent case back in which Breitling showcases the finishing of the B01 movement. Firstly, we have the Côtes de Genève (Geneva Stripes), which is prominently shown through the skeletonised winding rotor and the large bridges. Then perlage finishing (circular graining), which is visible on the base plate of the movement, especially around the edges near the balance wheel. Anglage (beveling) is done on the edges of the bridges, which gives them a soft, polished finish. And lastly are the satin-brushed surfaces, which give the B01 calibre movement a mix of industrial finishing, giving it a modern and luxurious appearance.

How Does The Superocean Heritage Chronograph Wear?

Having previously worn the 44mm model, this new 42mm case size for the Superocean Heritage Chronograph wears like a dream. With the previous model being a bit too bulky for daily wear, these newly proportioned models make a great case for a daily wearer. I feel the 42mm case size is close to being the ideal size for a chronograph of this caliber. This isn’t meant to be a slim timepiece in any way. It’s a chronograph designed to have presence on the wrist, and I, for one, love that.

Even with a case thickness of 14.55mm, it never feels top-heavy or awkward on the wrist. This is thanks to the way the case slightly slopes downwards, giving a nice taper that hugs the wrist, distributing the weight evenly, and creating a secure, planted feel.

Thanks to the case’s sandwich-style construction, the bottom isn’t completely flat, which means that the chronograph pushers and crown sit slightly elevated on the wrist. This subtle detail improves usability, making it easier to engage the chronograph pushers and unscrew the crown without needing to take the watch off. It’s especially noticeable with the screw-locked crown, which becomes far more accessible than if it were to sit flush against the wrist.

Integrated Mesh Bracelet

The integrated bracelet is, without a doubt, one of the standout features of the Superocean Heritage Chronograph. There’s something about this bracelet that, for me, works really well with the case and dial design of the Superocean Heritage Chronograph. The integrated mesh bracelet feels incredibly smooth against the skin, and thanks to its fine, tightly woven links, it catches and reflects light beautifully. There’s a real sense of craftsmanship here; it doesn’t just wear well, it looks exceptional on the wrist too.

Having said that, after having a chat with Matt, we both agreed on one minor caveat: while the bracelet pairs nicely with most dial colours, it truly shines, both literally and stylistically, when paired with darker coloured dials. The high contrast between the polished steel and deep dial tones makes the bracelet pop visually in a way that lighter coloured dials can’t quite replicate.

The black dial two-tone Superocean Chronograph takes this idea even further. It swaps out the full steel bracelet for a black integrated mesh rubber strap, which creates a sportier look while enhancing comfort. For the Australian summer climate, this is an ideal strap choice. The black rubber strap contrasts beautifully with the 18k red gold accents of the timepiece, which makes these elements stand out with even more warmth and presence.

Final Thoughts

The Superocean Heritage Chronograph has always held a special place in my heart, and this latest 42mm collection feels like Breitling has finally released the ideal model. It retains everything which made the original so iconic: from the vintage cues, the elegant diver aesthetic, to the signature mesh bracelet. The brand has taken these elements and refined the dimensions, the dial layout, and movement execution, to create a modern and much more wearable interpretation of an icon.

For someone like me, who has owned the previous 44mm model and loved it despite its size, this update feels like a personal win. It’s now a watch I could see myself wearing every day without compromise, and that’s something I couldn’t honestly say about the older version. Breitling hasn’t gone and reinvented the Superocean timepiece. But rather, over the decades, have taken the time to evolve it, piece by piece. Polishing every element until it feels complete and up to modern watchmaking (and wearing) standards.

If you are in the market for a chronograph that stands out without being overly flashy, that offers luxury while still being a dedicated dive watch, brings real-world functionality wrapped in a timeless design, then this new Superocean Heritage Chronograph should be high on the list. This isn’t just another diver’s watch; it’s a timepiece that makes a statement, that reflects decades of heritage, and proves that refinement and boldness can coexist on the wrist.

Specification: Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42. Blue Dial Steel Mesh Bracelet (Ref. AB0156161C1A1), Black Dial Black Rubber Strap (Ref. UB0156H11B1S1)

• Dimensions: 42mm x 14.55mm thick x 49.56mm lug-to-lug distance
• Case Material: Stainless steel with polished and satin-brushed finishes (ref. AB0156161C1A1) or two-tone mix of stainless steel and 18k red gold (ref. UB0156H11B1S1)
• Dial: Gradient blue (ref. AB0156161C1A1), or black with 18k red gold elements (ref. UB0156H11B1S1)
• Water Resistance: 200m (20 Bar)
• Movement: Automatic b01 calibre
• Movement Power reserve: Approx. 70 hours operating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
• Crystal: Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides
• Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel integrated mesh bracelet (ref. AB0156161C1A1), or integrated black mesh rubber strap (ref. UB0156H11B1S1),

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 12,990 Steel variant (Ref. AB0156161C1A1), AU$ 14,090 Two-tone 18k red gold (Ref. AB0156161C1A1)

Availability: Available now through Breitling boutiques and authorised retailers, or head online to Breitling.com.au

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