Mario Canonizado 
Chanel’s showing at Watches and Wonders 2025 has massively expanded the offerings in the J12 collection! Following the release of the J12 Bleu line, the fashion powerhouse is now offering a new rendition inspired by their prowess within the beauty industry.
In the world of watchmaking, refinement comes in many forms. To some, it means a painstaking attention to detail — no matter how small. Timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne embody refinement through their exceptional level of finishing and mechanical artistry. To others, refinement refers to the elegant aura a watch can project, particularly in the realm of dress watches. Think Jaeger-LeCoultre or Longines, whose timepieces often carry with them a sense of timeless sophistication.
Though it’s possible, it’s incredibly rare for a watch brand to achieve true refinement through both design and technical innovation. For a relative outsider to the watch industry to do so is even rarer. Chanel, who rose to prominence by disrupting the fashion and beauty spaces, is undeniably one of those rare exceptions. While horology was never the brand’s original focus, that hasn’t stopped Chanel from pursuing the art and science of watchmaking with spirited enthusiasm — creating timepieces that build upon its iconic brand identity while striking a near-perfect balance of refinement, detail, and presence.
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At the turn of the century, this pursuit of refinement took shape in the form of the J12. With its highly resistant ceramic case, the J12 helped usher Chanel into a new era of watchmaking — one that embraced change without compromising elegance. Today, Chanel’s presence in the watch world is a powerful one, with collaborations across both independent ateliers and industry giants reinforcing its position.
Now, at Watches & Wonders 2025, Chanel celebrates the 25th anniversary of its emblematic J12 collection with two standout releases: the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, and the J12 Blush. Measuring 38mm wide, 46.6mm long, and 12.6mm thick, the J12 Blush retains the same dimensions as the original J12 line. Crafted from Chanel’s signature highly-resistant ceramic and boasting an impressive 200 meters of water resistance, this timepiece may appear delicate, but it’s more than ready to handle everyday wear with confidence.
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While the J12 Blush mirrors the silhouette and proportions of its predecessors, its dial design subtly shifts to reflect Chanel’s other great speciality: beauty. The traditional white lumed Arabic numerals have been reimagined in a stunning palette of Camaïeu tones—shades inspired by the refined colour harmonies found within Chanel’s Makeup Creative Studio. Much like Chanel’s early makeup lines, which were housed in sleek, monochromatic lacquered cases to let their vibrant tones stand out, the J12 Blush embraces a similar philosophy. Its grand feu black enamel dial provides the perfect backdrop to highlight the subtle, expressive hues of each numeral and index.
“The visual language of CHANEL Beauty creations is both fascinating and graphically very inspiring. I am drawn to the authoritative elegance of these objects — their sophisticated architecture, their striking, deliberate geometry; the depth of black lacquer that intensifies the richness of a crimson hue or the softness of a powdered pink. There is an aesthetic dimension akin to artistic composition in these CHANEL creations. These palettes, pencils, brushes, pigments, and textures — so intrinsic to the art of fine watchmaking — inspired me to establish connections with artistic movements such as Dripping Art and Pop Art. Why not ‘‘put makeup’’ on time to make it more beautiful? This vision of beauty became the heartbeat of the entire collection.”
Arnaud Chastaingt, CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio Director
Turning the watch around is no less impressive than admiring its dial. Like its other contemporaries, the J12 Blush is powered by the Calibre 12.1. Beating at a standard rate of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) with a respectable 70-hour power reserve, the Cal. 12.1 is also COSC-certified, guaranteeing an impressive accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day. If that all sounds familiar, you’re not wrong—Chanel develops its movements in collaboration with acclaimed manufacturer Kenissi, the same movement maker behind many of Tudor’s calibres. With a 20% stake in Kenissi, Chanel leverages this technical partnership to its fullest, securing a firm place in modern watchmaking and reinforcing its horological credibility.
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My Thoughts
I’ve always been a sucker for an underdog story. And while Chanel is hardly an underdog in terms of reputation or finances, it still takes a certain boldness to break into an industry you’re not known for — or don’t fully understand. This kind of directional shift can make or break an ambitious brand trying to enter watchmaking. More often than not, they crash and burn, left producing uninspired timepieces that abandon everything their brand once stood for.
Chanel, however, hasn’t just survived in the watch space — it’s thrived. Its presence has only grown since entering the industry, and its clear mastery of versatility has even allowed the brand to shake things up from time to time — a feat most fashion houses can only dream of. And yet, with the J12 Blush, Chanel has chosen to look inward. It’s a tribute to a heritage that may feel foreign to die-hard watch purists, but one that’s rich with history and instrumental to the Parisian brand’s identity and success. Why not look back, if only to see how far you’ve come?
Reference: TBA
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 46.6mm lug-to-lug x 12.6mm thickness
- Case Material: Black ceramic
- Dial: Grand feu black enamel with blush accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 12.1 with COSC Chronometer certification
- Power Reserve: 70h
- Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
- Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with butterfly clasp
