Sometimes, the classics are still the best. Louis Vuitton proves that with two new ceramic renditions of the retro-cool Monterey that are here to stay!
One of the most commendable stories of late in the watch industry is Louis Vuitton’s massive pivot within its watch division. Far be it from me to praise the business practices of multibillion-dollar conglomerates, but the fact that they had the temerity to essentially dump their entire catalogue of old to start over again is both bold and highly respectable.
Furthermore, to their credit, it actually worked. The refined Tambour, Escale, and even Spin Time models have transformed the fashion powerhouse into a real force of nature in the horological world. Meanwhile, haute horlogerie works like their De Bethune collaboration or the Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch still maintain the spectacular signature of the brand.
Between all of these incredible changes, however, came and went an unconventional, understated, limited-edition run of the Louis Vuitton Monterey. A recreation of the very first timepiece by the brand, the Montre LV I, the Monterey moniker was adapted from the American mispronunciation of the French ‘Montre’, meaning ‘Watch’. But while the 188-piece run was enough to pique the interests of exacting enthusiasts for a brief time, Louis Vuitton’s newest duo of watches will be sticking around for a lot longer, available to anyone inquisitive enough to discover them.
The Italian Job
The two watches I speak of are the brand-new Louis Vuitton Monterey 37mm models, taking after the Montre LV II released in conjunction with the LV I in 1988. This includes the same pebble-shaped case as first designed by the venerable Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti. However, the Monterey 37mm pair differ in several ways from the original remaster that was released in 2025.
First off is the smaller size, which clocks in at, unsurprisingly, 37mm. Since the pebble case has no lugs at all, it provides perhaps the truest-to-size wearing experience. The ease of wear is further enhanced by the new case materials: a primary construction of ceramic mixed with steel components.
Available in either green or black ceramic, the polished cases carry a surprising resistance to scratching, one element that the first release’s 18k yellow gold case only wishes it could have. But what makes it more wearable is the lightness of ceramic, which, alongside the 12 o’clock crown, ensures nothing impedes on-wrist comfort.
But you might be asking, ‘If there’s no lugs, how is it on a strap?’ And you’d be right to do so. Gae Aulenti thought of this back when she designed it, including a loop attachment on the closed caseback that allows a strap to easily pass through.
Though they come standard on green and black calfskin respectively, this does mean in theory that other straps can be easily threaded through and used, provided they are the same width. Imagine how these would look on a NATO fabric strap! In any case, the 50m water resistance should protect it in most scenarios besides high-impact activities and extremes, so you may be inclined to wear it to whatever occasion you deem appropriate.
Making Tracks
Perhaps the best part about the new Monterey 37mm models is their classically inspired, yet contemporarily versatile aesthetics. While the case construction and wearability do it much justice, it’s the dial that truly feels timeless and easy to take into any scenario.
Unlike the Montre LV II, Louis Vuitton has instead opted to simplify the watch by omitting both its date wheel and alarm functions. Still, it doesn’t detract from the attractiveness of the dial, instead purifying it to emphasise its best characteristics.
Between the two watches are two colourways: green lacquer with yellow and white accents, and the more classic white lacquer with white, black, red, and blue tones. Regardless, each comes with a double railroad track set on the outer and inner peripheries of the dial. Between each set of tracks are the Arabic numerals, printed clearly with a custom serif typeface similar to the original LV II models.
Finally, a skeletonised handset of syringe hands completes the time-telling capabilities, while a second hand with a circular counterbalance orbits the dial. I’ve always liked how the design looks. It’s somewhere in between the gauges of old steam trains and classical pocket watch aesthetics. Given that Louis Vuitton’s legacy is so deeply ingrained in travel, it’s a heritage nod worth applauding, especially since the timelessness was penned by Aulenti nearly 40 years ago.
Pop The Trunk
But within the beautiful lines and contemporary layout lies a truly incredible movement: the Cal. LFT MA01.02. Beating at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 45-hour power reserve, the time-only movement has been masterfully crafted by the watchmakers of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Headed by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom worked exceptionally closely with the late, great Gérald Genta, the movement is exceptionally manufactured and extensively finished.
That might seem a little redundant, given you won’t ever see it in action, but such details matter through the passion for watchmaking alone. But if you ever do get the opportunity to take a peek, I advise you to look closely at the rose gold rotor. Near the central pivot, the poinçon LFT (LFT Seal) can be found: Louis Vuitton’s own certification of mechanical, horological excellence.
Initial Thoughts
I am of the firm belief that fashion brands are making an incredible impact in the horological world. We are so far removed from the days of laughing brands like Hermès, Chanel, and Gucci out the doors of watchmaking, as they, alongside Louis Vuitton, have all elected to sink their teeth fully into the industry.
Whether it be by acquiring shares and stakes in exceptional manufacturing companies or simply creating their own pieces by way of sheer resources and willpower, such brands have achieved commendable progress detached from their initial big-name status.
Through releases like the new Monterey 37mm models, horology is no longer the second-fiddle ‘nepo baby’ of the Louis Vuitton catalogue. It’s taken on a life completely its own, putting its unique take on the watch world forward for the curious, the enthusiastic, and, of course, the really, really rich.
References & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | W0CR21 (Green) W0CR11 (Black) |
| Dimensions | 37mm lugless case diameter x 11mm thickness |
| Case | Green / Black ceramic & steel |
| Dial | Green lacquer with white & yellow accents White lacquer with red, blue, & black accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Closed, brushed |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. LFTMA01.02 |
| Power Reserve | 45h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 50m / 5bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Integrated green / black leather strap with steel pin buckle |