Bell & Ross get their glow on with a new limited edition BR-03, emphasising the beauty that comes with lume.
Of all the important elements of a sports watch, perhaps the least considered and discussed subject is lume. It has never been widely agreed upon exactly how much lume should go onto a sports watch. Too much, and it may as well be a dive watch; too little, and it edges closer to a dress piece. But while lume has its uses, its presentation is not often championed. It is not the centrepiece of most watches, it is simply… there.
For the French watchmakers at Bell & Ross, this idea simply cannot stand. Over the years, they have accustomed themselves to all types of lume, integrating it into their watches in unique and increasingly compelling ways. Much of this has been done through their Lum series, focusing on championing lume in as many ways as they know how. Now is no different, as they expand the Lum collection with a new limited edition that celebrates lume’s iconic green glow.
A Square Space
The Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Green Lum should not be entirely unfamiliar to fans of the brand. The rounded square case, inspired by flight instruments, makes its appearance again, measuring 42mm wide, 53mm long, and 11.3mm thick in stainless steel. While square watches are often more imposing than their round counterparts, Bell & Ross have mastered the ability to make their watches wear low and close to the wrist, thanks to stubby lugs and a relatively thin profile.
The exposed screws, alongside the knurled bezel with a black ceramic and lume insert, help add further visual intrigue without compromising the odd yet pragmatic identity of the BR-03 line. The watch comes supplied with two different strap options: an initial offering of an integrated black rubber strap, or a black synthetic strap featuring a hook-and-fastener system similar to Velcro.
Both provide slightly different, but overall comfortable, wearing experiences, though the synthetic strap may permit better ventilation during hotter seasons. With a robust 100m water resistance, this version of the BR-03 continues to uphold the rugged characteristics that made the collection so popular back in 2005.
Green Lantern
But as oddly delightful as the case silhouette is, it obviously is not the highlight here. The BR-03 GMT Green Lum’s main attraction is… well, the green lume. More specifically, the lume of choice is Super-LumiNova C3, the brightest glowing photoluminescent pigment available for watchmaking. Widely praised in the industry for its performance in low-light conditions, the material pervades almost every facet of the watch.
Despite its commonplace appearance in all manner of Swiss watches, the original Super-LumiNova was actually a Japanese invention, conceived by Nemoto & Co., a Tokyo-based supplier of phosphorescent pigments. The bezel features accents in green Super-LumiNova, as do the applied indexes, minute track, quarter-hour numerals, and hands.
The logo, watch designation, and rehaut numerals all appear to be the same, but are instead coloured similarly so as not to detract from time-telling in the dark. An inset date window, coloured black, can also be found at 4:30, while the entire luminous display is set atop a green-to-black vertical dégradé backdrop. It is not often you see a monochromatic dégradé dial, so its implementation here adds further visual interest to the watch, almost mimicking the haze of night vision goggles.
Swiss Superman
As is always the case with Bell & Ross BR-03 models, the caseback remains closed, uninteresting save for the typical engravings. Behind the solid back, however, lies the powerhouse of the watch: the automatic BR-CAL.303, based on the Sellita Cal. SW330-2.
Beating at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 54-hour power reserve, the movement operates both the date and caller-style GMT functions. This is shown through the far, hollow triangle fourth hand, which can be changed independently to track another timezone.
While Bell & Ross has begun making a concerted effort to move upmarket with their Kenissi-based offerings, it is nice to see them still use tried-and-true movements like the Cal. SW330-2. While many may praise Bell & Ross once they move entirely to Kenissi, or a similar upscale manufacturer, they might not appreciate the trade-off in accessibility it will inevitably cause.
Initial Thoughts
Though lume remains a staple of watches all over the world, it is rarely ever celebrated as a standalone product. Bell & Ross changed that with their Lum series, actively seeking ways to not simply shoehorn lume into every watch, but to smartly implement it in ways that make it both a practical and artistic statement.
With the BR-03 GMT Green Lum, they have once again done so, merging their eclectic charm with their instrument-inspired aesthetic to create a watch that feels both wildly unfamiliar and surprisingly intuitive. Bell & Ross has really been on a roll as of late, both at the haute horlogerie and luxury levels of watchmaking, and releases like these can only serve to shed further light on the unique character of their catalogue. So, if you need a watch that can guide you through day, night, and everything in between, you might want to reach for this limited edition piece before it runs out.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | BR0393-GN-ST/SRB |
| Dimensions | 42mm case diameter x 53mm lug-to-lug x 11.3mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Green-to-black vertical dégradé with green Super-LumiNova accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Closed, engraved |
| Movement | Automatic BR-CAL.303 with caller-style GMT & date complications |
| Power Reserve | 54h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 100m / 10bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Integrated black rubber strap with steel pin buckle Complementary black synthetic strap with Velcro-like closure |