Ferdinand Berthoud’s Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2-1 brings historical chronometry, warm rose gold design and exceptional mechanical finishing into one beautifully refined expression.
When it comes to independent watchmaking, it doesn’t get much better than Ferdinand Berthoud. This is one brand that certainly does not create watches to simply tell the time, but rather creates instruments to remind us why precision was once what shaped the course of history.
Since Ferdinand Berthoud’s modern revival in 2015 under Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the manufacture has put a much higher focus on chronometry, traditional construction, and historical watchmaking ideas executed at an extremely high level.
The brand’s Chronomètre FB 3SPC is one such model that represents “all of the above”. However, unlike other models in Ferdinand Berthoud’s catalogue, which lean heavily into visually dramatic mechanics like the tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission, the FB 3SPC is more restrained and focuses more on precision rather than complications. The FB 3SPC uses an unusual combination of a cylindrical balance spring, variable-inertia balance and COSC chronometer certification, which actually helped it win the Chronometry Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
This new version of the FB 3SPC does not reinvent the wheel, but rather changes the character of the watch through material and colour changes. By pairing a rose gold case with nickel silver and beige dial elements, Ferdinand Berthoud gives the watch a warmer, more classical personality.
Classical Warmth Meets Mechanical Transparency
The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC is crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold and measures 42.30mm in diameter, with a thickness of just 9.43mm. Given the level of detail on the dial, this is a surprisingly restrained case profile, but it certainly does help the watch maintain a more elegant profile than feel like a bulky technical timepiece.
The elegant design of the case, with its polished finishing, gives the FB 3SPC a more classical personality compared to the other Ferdinand Berthoud models. And according to the brand, this case design “recalls early 19th-century pocket watches, including the decimal watch No. 26 made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud.”
One thing that Ferdinand Berthoud does exceptionally well is the dial design. The brand’s lineup consists entirely of skeletonised dials, and rightly so, as all the hand craftsmanship and the intricate mechanics of the complex movements get to be on display proudly. For the FB 3SPC, the skeletonisation serves more so for the aesthetics than the display of the highly technical components.
However, that’s not to say that the dial is void of any mechanical artistry. One of the signature details of the FB 3SPC is the transparent sapphire porthole at 9 o’clock. This is not just a decorative detail; it allows the wearer to view the regulating organ and cylindrical balance spring from the side, turning the case itself into part of the mechanical display.
To make the dial as visually attractive as possible, Ferdinand Berthoud has given it a sandblasted nickel-silver finish, which creates a warm, matte background, while the beige inner bezel ring and small seconds track soften the overall presentation and help tie the watch to the rose gold case. The use of blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold hands, blued screws, and jewels adds colour to the dial, making the watch feel more elegant and historically grounded than aggressively technical.
Chronometry At The Heart Of The Watch
The main highlight of the FB 3SPC is the cylindrical balance spring. This type of spring is historically associated with marine chronometers and precision timekeeping, which sits perfectly in line with Ferdinand Berthoud’s chronometric identity. The balance wheel, pallet lever, and escape wheel can all be seen from the dial side, which certainly enhances the visual prominence of the timepiece.
The movement powering this masterpiece is Ferdinand Berthoud’s in-house hand-wound Calibre FB-SPC. The movement is COSC-certified and runs at 3Hz (21,600 VpH), while delivering a 72-hour power reserve from a large barrel held beneath an arched bridge. It also includes a stop-seconds mechanism, which reinforces the chronometer-focused nature of the watch.
Turn the watch over, and you get treated to some beautiful finishing. While much of the movement is covered, we still get nickel-silver bridges with fine sandblasted surfaces and hand-polished bevels, which give the movement a more traditional, pocket-watch-like aesthetic.
Initial Thoughts
I must admit, I first came across Ferdinand Berthoud during Geneva Watch Days 2025, where they unveiled the Naissance d’une Montre 3, and ever since then, I have been fascinated by what it stands for. Any brand that brings mechanical watchmaking to the forefront of its design will always be special in my book, and Ferdinand Berthoud is a master of that. The Naissance d’une Montre 3 was an extraordinary project, and while this new FB 3SPC plays in a very different space, it still deserves recognition for the level of chronometric engineering, finishing and historical inspiration it brings to the table.
The FB 3SPC is a timepiece that rewards closer attention. On paper, it seems like it’s “only” hours, minutes, small seconds, and power reserve. However, the movement architecture, the cylindrical balance spring, and the chronometer certification all make this far more compelling than what the specs merely suggest.
The price point places the PF 3SPC into rare territory, but that is expected of Ferdinand Berthoud. This is not competing with other ‘dress’ watches. It stands in a league of its own as a highly specialised chronometric instrument aimed at collectors who appreciate movement architecture, historical construction, and a watch that is extensively hand-finished.
Reference & Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Reference | FB 3SPC |
| Dimensions | 42.30mm x 9.43mm thickness |
| Case | Ethical 18-carat rose gold |
| Dial | Sandblasted nickel-silver skeletonised dial showcasing a cylindrical balance wheel. Inner bezel ring in velvet-finished beige brass for the hours and minutes, black-varnished engraved numerals. |
| Crystal | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Caseback | Open, sapphire |
| Movement | Manual wind Calibre FB-SPC |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Beat Rate | 3Hz / 21,600VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle. |