The Italian brand Panerai ventures into the extreme once more, unveiling a titanic 47mm, 500m water resistant Submersible in titanium DMLS.
Panerai these days is more commonly associated with the luxury world. At first glance through their catalogue, how could they not be? From fine craftsmanship to emblematic silhouettes and relatively opulent price points, the Italo-Swiss watchmaker has maintained a strong reputation within the high-end watch industry. But to dismiss them as just that, simply a brand for the bold moneymakers of the world, would be folly.
Because despite having been founded in 1860, very few people knew of Panerai’s existence. Instead of appealing to the watch enthusiast, the brand had a far more specific clientele in mind: the Italian Royal Navy, whom they provided precision timing instruments to throughout the 20th century.
But nowadays, regardless of whether it’s an Italian Navy frogman or Sylvester Stallone, Panerai combines such professional diving heritage with the cutting-edge technologies of today. Nowhere is this more apparent than in their newest release, the Submersible GMT Ref. PAM01495.
Visible From Space, Probably
As is the case with most Panerai watches, this new Submersible GMT remains as recognisable as ever, sporting the same crown guard found in the Luminor line. Rather than leaning into nostalgia, however, the new timepiece doubles down on futuristic aesthetics and technical innovation.
They did not skimp on sizing either, as the PAM01495 comes in at a colossal 47mm case diameter. No word as yet on the thickness of the case, but given the size, I would not be surprised if both it and the lug-to-lug measurement were similarly broad.
Despite this, the wearing experience remains somewhat tamed by the case material of choice. Instead of standard steel, the Submersible GMT is made from Grade 5 titanium using Panerai’s Direct Metal Laser Sintering technology (DMLS). Effectively a sophisticated form of 3D printing, the manufacturing process involves powdered titanium fused layer by layer using high-powered lasers.
We saw a similar technique applied by TAG Heuer with the Monaco AIR, where both brands can create titanium structures that are normally impossible to machine. On Panerai’s end, the result of this DMLS tech is a watch that maintains the robustness of a 500-metre water resistant dive watch, while making it 25% lighter than even a standard titanium construction. Accompanied by a blue rubber strap and a complementary textile alternative, the PAM01495 retains the same Panerai silhouette while introducing a new high-tech flair.
The Modern Panerai
Visually, the dial embraces the same high-tech philosophy as the case construction. Similar to the PAM01631 released at Watches & Wonders, the dial display is openworked beneath a grid-like skeletonised structure.
Floating hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova appear suspended above the movement, with the skeletonised hands applied with the appropriate amount of Panerai lume: a lot. The minute hand and luminous bezel pip glow blue in low light, while the remaining markers and hands emit the classic green lume.
Once again, the patented polarised date display steals the show. Traditional date discs often interrupt skeletonised dials by forcing manufacturers to hide large portions of the movement behind opaque discs. But while Panerai’s date display functions like a normal date disc, the disc itself and its numerals are transparent.
The aperture is fitted with a polarised window, meaning only within the polarised date aperture at 3 o’clock does the current date become visible. The effect is remarkably clean, preserving the openness of the skeletonised display without sacrificing utility.
Twisted Technology
Turning the watch around, you are greeted by the Calibre P.4001/S, one of Panerai’s most technically sophisticated movements yet. Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 72-hour power reserve, it is equipped with a micro-rotor for both aesthetics and slimness despite the large frame.
Functionally, the Cal. P.4001/S’s main trick is the flyer-style GMT, allowing the local time to be adjusted independently of the second time zone. The movement also includes an AM/PM indicator integrated into the small seconds display at 9 o’clock, which is linked to the 12-hour orange central pointer to indicate AM or PM time in the second time zone.
One of the most fascinating parts of the Cal. P.4001/S, though, is the integration of a zero-reset hacking seconds mechanism. Pulling the crown causes the small seconds hand at 9 o’clock to instantly snap back to zero, allowing for precise syncing to another watch or clock. Finally, a power reserve indicator positioned on the rear side of the movement helps indicate to the user when to wear or wind the watch again, its positioning keeping the dial layout tidy.
Initial Thoughts
Though Panerai have moved significantly upmarket within the watch industry, they have probably been the most reluctant to let go of their utilitarian heritage. This is ultimately a good thing, as many luxury brands with purpose-driven backgrounds often find themselves pushing far beyond their legacies in order to maintain modern cultural relevancy. Although innovation is important, is it entirely worth losing your identity over?
Panerai’s answer to such a question is a swift “no”. It is incredible to see how far they can push themselves within the constraints of two silhouettes, and the new Submersible GMT is exemplary of that. It is a modern reinterpretation of the Luminor collection, reintroduced to the professional diving world of today. And while the asking price is steep at AU$78,700, you can guarantee you will get everything you could ever want out of this watch and more.
Reference: PAM01495
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 47mm case diameter |
| Case | Titanium Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) with unidirectional blue ceramic bezel |
| Dial | Openworked with black & white accents |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic micro-rotor Cal. P.4001/S with date, zero-reset small seconds, power reserve indicator, & flyer-style GMT (12h with AM/PM indicator) complications |
| Power Reserve | 72h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 500m / 50bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Blue rubber strap with titanium pin buckle OR Complementary blue textile strap with titanium pin buckle |