For Watches & Wonders 2026, the independent brand has redefined the dress watch for the modern crowd! Meet the new Oris Artelier Complication.
Oris has built a respectable reputation within the watch world. Combining solid design principles, clever mechanics, and a strong prioritisation of the consumer, the independent brand has managed to produce a wide array of stellar timepieces.
Typically, their focus has been on all-purpose dive watches like the Aquis, or robust everyday pieces such as the Big Crown and ProPilot lines. However, those familiar with Oris will know they have also occasionally ventured into the dress watch arena.
Introducing the Artelier collection in 1991, the Oris Artelier is a sharp, minimalist line that contrasts with the utility-forward language of the broader catalogue. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, the brand has chosen to make this standout series a focal point of its exhibition. With this focus comes a brand new rendition: the Artelier Complication, aiming to marry classic lines with modern practicality.
A Watch for Anyone
In typical Oris fashion, the new Artelier Complication models are accessible to just about every wrist. Sized at 39.5mm in case diameter, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 11.8mm thick, the new watches sit firmly in the sweet spot for dress-oriented pieces. They offer a balanced presence on the wrist, encased in stainless steel with a slim bezel that draws attention to the dial.
As a result, the dial takes visual precedence, giving the watch strong wrist presence without overwhelming the wearer. The silhouette is undoubtedly contemporary, yet it still adheres to the classic dress watch aesthetic. Furthermore, the 30-metre water resistance should also allay any concern that the Artelier Complication is trying to overstep its boundaries.
The watch is offered on either a stainless steel bracelet or a dark brown leather strap, both secured with a butterfly clasp. While the bracelet option enhances versatility and modern appeal, the leather strap reinforces its dress watch identity. Interestingly, the leather strap appears to be interchangeable without the use of tools, whereas the stainless steel bracelet is not. Careful consideration should therefore be given when deciding between the two options.
Addition By Subtraction
As is the case with most dress watches, the Artelier Complication’s design is not defined by what it adds, but by what it subtracts. The dial is organised around a vertical axis, with a circular moon phase display positioned at 12 o’clock and a 24-hour subdial at 6 o’clock. It is a focused, linear presentation, allowing for an intuitive reading of each function. Available in off-white ivory, midnight blue, and chestnut brown colourways, the dial features a subtly textured central area paired with a smooth outer ring, creating depth without clutter.
Applied faceted indices surround the dial, with a particularly prominent marker at 12 o’clock emphasising the moon phase display. The moon phase itself has been reworked into a fully rounded aperture, depicting a star-filled sky and a silver-toned moon that rises to 12 o’clock and falls across its cycle.
Of the three, the chestnut brown rendition is perhaps the most visually contrasting, but it still avoids tipping into flamboyance. Branding is kept restrained, with the “ORIS” logo balanced on one side of the dial and the model designation on the other, establishing a clear, metropolitan identity.
Clever Complications
Turning the watch over, Oris’ Calibre 782 is revealed through a transparent sapphire caseback. Heavily based on the Sellita SW200 series, the movement beats at the industry standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) while offering a 41-hour power reserve. Unlike its predecessor, the Calibre 781, the new Artelier removes the date function for a more minimalist approach. What it retains is the aforementioned moon phase, as well as a 24-hour subdial.
Now, I’ve been avoiding touching on this subdial since the 24-hour complication appeared in my “cool but useless complications” list. So imagine my surprise when I discovered it was not what I thought it was. Instead of a standard 24-hour indicator, the Oris Artelier Complication is actually a caller-style GMT.
Operated by a recessed pusher at four o’clock, the subdial can be adjusted to track a second time zone beyond local time. It is a useful function if you have friends or business overseas, but one normally relegated to a fourth hand on the dial. Moving the complication to a subdial effectively declutters the watch, and it is a feature I’ve been wanting to see for quite some time. Perhaps Oris is reading my mind.
Initial Thoughts
We at Watch Advice have spoken extensively about the future of the dress watch in the modern industry. While it is certain that dress watches will remain symbolic of haute horlogerie and decadence, not many mid-market brands are attempting to tackle the accessible dress watch trend, or at least not with a mechanical movement.
Despite this, there are a few standouts within the niche. One is Raymond Weil, which, if you have read my other articles, requires little introduction. But with the release of the Artelier Complication, Oris has also thrown its hat into the ring.
It is a welcome addition, though not entirely surprising given Oris’s penchant for keeping an ear to the ground at all times. With an elegant design, universal proportions, and a clever movement, the independent brand continues to “go its own way” by producing elegant, practical, and accessible timepieces like the Artelier Complication.
References:
Ivory: 782 7811 4051-07 6 20 17FC (Leather) / 782 7811 4051-07 8 20 20 (Steel)
Blue: 782 7811 4055-07 6 20 17FC (Leather) / 782 7811 4055-07 8 20 20 (Steel)
Chestnut: 782 7811 4056-07 6 20 17FC (Leather) / 782 7811 4056-07 8 20 20 (Steel)
Specifications:
| Dimensions | 39.5mm case diameter x 45.5mm lug-to-lug x 11.8mm thickness |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Textured ivory / midnight blue / chestnut |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Caseback | Open sapphire |
| Movement | Automatic Cal. 782 with moonphase & caller-style GMT complications |
| Power Reserve | 41h |
| Beat Rate | 4Hz / 28,800VpH |
| Water Resistance | 30m / 3bar |
| Strap/Bracelet | Dark brown leather strap with butterfly clasp / stainless steel bracelet with butterfly clasp |