A year on from its record-breaking debut, Bvlgari has taken the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon into even more ambitious territory with a full platinum execution. With this timepiece, the brand proves that ultra-thin watchmaking at the highest level can still evolve through both technical mastery and material refinement!
This is Bvlgari’s second year in Watches & Wonders, showcasing the brand’s latest releases on the grandest scale. So far, we’ve seen their new revolutionary release for the Octo Finissimo, featuring an ultra-small and thin movement, fitting into the new perfectly proportioned 37mm watch.
They are also further exploring the realms of ultra-thin watchmaking, with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon now being presented in platinum, making it the thinnest platinum tourbillon in watchmaking history. With platinum used for both the case and bracelet, it gives the timepiece a more assertive and exclusive presence on the wrist.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon was first unveiled during Watches and Wonders 2025, and its introduction set a new standard for ultra-thin watchmaking with high complications. It not only marked Bvlgari’s big ultra-thin statement at the show, but also continued the brand’s record-breaking Octo Finissimo run.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is Bvlgari’s 10th world record in ultra-thin watchmaking. This is, quite literally, an astonishing achievement, with the brand creating one record-breaking timepiece after another, pushing the very boundaries of what is possible in mechanical watchmaking. This forms a huge part of why this 10th record-breaking timepiece is more than just another “Finissimo”.
The record itself was quite a remarkable feat, with Bvlgari creating a tourbillon timepiece measuring just 1.85mm thick. Previously, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon held the record at 2.0mm thick, and Bvlgari saw this as the perfect challenge to push the boundaries once again.
What makes the achievement of creating a 1.85mm-profile tourbillon timepiece so mesmerising is that Bvlgari isn’t talking about a thin calibre inside a normal case, but rather a movement that forms the complete watch profile. On top of this, the timepiece uses a flying tourbillon, which is one of the hardest complications to miniaturise. The brand has specifically highlighted that fitting a skeleton flying tourbillon into a timepiece this thin is what makes this watch such a true technical flex.
A Record Breaker, Recast in Platinum
A year after the release of the record-breaking timepiece, Bvlgari has now set its sights on new goals and records. The brand wanted to be the first watchmaker to create an ultra-thin timepiece, let alone one featuring a high complication in a precious metal, and it has achieved exactly that.
If creating the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon was a challenge in high-horology, recreating it in platinum is a whole other issue. Platinum is a very dense material, meaning that is heavier and also harder to machine cleanly at extreme tolerances, something that is of utmost importance when you talk about a watch that is only 1.85mm thick. In an ultra-thin construction, every component has very little material to work with, so using a heavier precious metal puts more pressure on rigidity, case stability, and finishing precision.
But why choose platinum of all the precious metals available? Bvlgari states, “First seen around 1780 at the court of King Louis XVI, platinum established itself as the pinnacle of luxury and refinement in modern jewelry and watchmaking in the early twentieth century.” With Bvlgari having a rich history with jewelry, the use of platinum is certainly not a new venture, but rather a foundation of the brand. Platinum appeared early on in signed Bvlgari collections and in one-of-a-kind high jewelry creations.
“Last year at Watches and Wonders, we already pushed the boundaries with the OctoFinissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Today, with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum, the story continues and reaches a new chapter. This creation is not merely a new technical feat, but atrue reaffirmation of our ability to innovate by combining the record-breaking thinness of themovement with the nobility and complexity of platinum. It embodies the perfect alliance between radical elegance and horological mastery, a timepiece that, through its exclusivity and sophistication, sets a new standard in the world of exceptional watches.” Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of LVMH Watches and CEO of Bvlgari.
With platinum also being regarded as one of the most exclusive materials in watchmaking, it makes sense to lean into this material and take up the challenge no one else wanted to undertake of creating the world’s thinnest Tourbillon timepiece with it!
The 40mm case of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, along with the integrated bracelet, is crafted in full platinum. Every single detail of the iconic Octo Finissimo case design remains intact, with the extra-thin case also featuring beautiful satin-polished surfaces to underscore that this is not just a technical exercise in record-breaking watchmaking, but also a refined expression of luxury and craftsmanship.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum introduces a signature blue tone to the skeletonised dial, which gives this ultra-thin timepiece a fresh visual identity, whilst still preserving the openworked aesthetic which defines the timepiece. Against this architectural movement layout, the blue hue adds visual distinction and makes this more than just an elegant timepiece, giving the watch a greater sense of depth and, more specifically, contrast between the different elements.
Bvlgari states that “Discerning collectors will also notice a number of decorative details that set this limited series of ten pieces apart.” These details include a dedicated mainplate with original galvanic treatment, a steel ratchet wheel, and a bracelet that juxtaposes satin-brushed and polished finishes, all of which combine to give this platinum edition a more distinctive and refined character.
The Engine Behind The Record
At the heart of this incredible record-breaking timepiece sits the manually wound BVF 900 Flying Tourbillon Calibre. This is a movement that is just as extraordinary as the case that surrounds it. Not only does it power Bvlgari’s 10th ultra-thin world record, but it does so within a timepiece that measures a total of 1.85mm thick. What’s even more remarkable is that Bvlgari didn’t skip out on accuracy in achieving this feat, as the movement operates at a high-frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH). The added icing on the cake is that it also offers a good daily use 42-hour power reserve.
If the BVF 900 Flying Tourbillon Calibre wasn’t special enough already, what makes it even more fascinating is the way in which Bvlgari has completely rethought movement design from a traditional perspective, to reach the thickness of 1.85mm. The movement uses the caseback as the base plate, with a tungsten carbide structure chosen for added rigidity, while the gear train and keyless works are spread laterally across a single plane to save as much vertical space as possible.
The flying tourbillon is an especially complex structure in watchmaking, and for this model, even the traditional design sense of this complication had to be re-engineered to suit this new structure. It is this kind of engineering that elevates the BVF 900 Flying Tourbillon Calibre to be more than just a record-breaking movement, and also why it puts Bvlgari in a league of its own.
Initial Thoughts
Before Bvlgari and Piaget created their record-breaking timepieces, seeing a tourbillon timepiece at 2mm or less was a feat of watchmaking that many thought would not be possible. With the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari showed that not only can it be done, but it can also be executed by still preserving the design integrity of the Octo Finissimo line, the mechanical complexity, and also the aesthetic appeal that is expected of a modern timepiece.
Bvlgari wasn’t simply going to stop there, were they? In this next evolution of the ultra-thin story, they took this impressive design and created it in platinum, a material that is notoriously difficult to work with in such extreme dimensions. This release proves the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is not just about chasing records, but also about refining the concept through material and design.
The use of Bvlgari’s signature blue on the dial also gives the timepiece a fresh visual aesthetic, one that takes it from being a highly technical luxury timepiece to a genuinely elegant and wearable design. Overall, this platinum edition feels like Bvlgari taking a victory lap, showcasing that its record-breaking watch can also be one of the most refined expressions of the Octo Finissimo concept.
Reference: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum (Ref. 104344)
Specifications:
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 40mm |
| Case | Extra-think satin-polished platinum case. Ratchet in sandblasted steel engraved with circular satin finishing engraved with geometric decoration |
| Crystal | Glareproofed sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Skeletonized hour and minute display counter with blue PVD coating. |
| Caseback | Transparent, anti-reflective sapphire |
| Movement | Calibre BVF 900 Flying Tourbillon operating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH) |
| Functions | Flying Tourbillon |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Strap | Satin-polished platinum bracelet with fully integrated buckle. |