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In a world of round watches, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier stands out thanks to its unique design, as only Cartier can!

When people think of Cartier watches, the first thing that usually comes to mind is a maker of shapes. The brand has built much of its identity around distinctive case designs rather than traditional round watches, with icons such as the Santos, Tank, Tortue, Crash and Cloche, to name a few, all standing out as examples of Cartier doing things a little differently. That approach to design has long set the Maison apart from many other watchmakers who tend to lean more heavily on classic round cases.

So when Cartier introduced the Cartier de Ballon Bleu in 2007, it represented something slightly different for the brand. On paper, it’s a round watch, which might sound straightforward enough, but as with most things Cartier, it’s not quite that simple. Rather than just producing a traditional circular case, Cartier added its own distinctive twist with the now instantly recognisable recessed crown and flowing case profile, creating a design that still feels unmistakably Cartier despite the classic shape.

Since its release, the Ballon Bleu has become one of the brand’s most recognisable modern collections. The design works across a wide range of sizes and materials, from smaller quartz models through to larger automatic versions and even more complicated pieces. It’s also one of the more versatile watches in Cartier’s lineup, appealing to both men and women depending on the size and configuration.

For this review, I’ve spent time with the 36 mm version, which sits right in that unisex sweet spot of the Ballon Bleu range. It’s a size that works well across a variety of wrists and arguably captures the elegant, jewellery-inspired design language that Cartier is known for.

Initial thoughts

The Ballon Bleu is an interesting watch. It may not be the first collection I think of when I think of Cartier, but interestingly, it’s actually one of the more classic-looking watches they produce – in the sense that it’s one of their few round watches outside of the Pasha, and in the case of their Metiers d’Art and high horology collection, Rotonde and Ronde.

This particular model is the 36 mm size variant, and I will say from the outset, it’s probably on the smaller side for a watch that I would wear on a daily basis. That being said, it’s an elegant watch that really speaks to Cartier’s history of playing with shapes and designs. What instantly hits me is the dial with the classic Roman numerals around the outer edge and the guilloché pattern in the centre, which gives a direct contrast to the outer dial’s brushing.

The inset crown gives it a slight asymmetrical look, and it is one of those aspects of the watch that you will either love or you won’t. The H-link bracelet is fairly comfortable, and the combination of polished and brushed finishes makes the watch stand out. Because of this, I feel it falls more into a dressier category of watch.

This is potentially a watch I would wear for an occasion rather than every day, as I feel it probably lends itself to being more of an ‘occasion” watch than an everyday piece. However, this really comes down to your sense of style and your preferences. Of course, it is not a dress watch, as we would traditionally classify it, but I feel it can pull off that dress look when needed.

The Design

Cartier has always been known as a maker of shapes for their watches. With the Ballon Bleu, it’s really only one of two watches they make in the round shape (in the core collection), which does, in my mind, make it unique when you consider their vast range of other pieces, such as the Santos, Tank, and Tortue, to name just a few.

The watch has been designed to suit a wide variety of wrists, and at 36 mm it sits comfortably within that unisex range. On my 17.5 cm wrist, it does wear on the smaller side, but on my wife’s 14 cm wrist, it feels perfectly at home. And while this is technically a round watch, Cartier being Cartier, they haven’t simply settled for a straightforward circular case. Instead, they’ve subtly reworked the shape to make it distinctly their own.

The hallmark of the Ballon Bleu is the inset crown with its blue spinel cabochon, which sits neatly within the case. It immediately gives the watch a different look compared to a traditional round design, and because of this Cartier has adjusted the dial layout to accommodate the crown guard.

The result is a slightly asymmetrical dial, with the Roman numerals subtly curving around the crown aperture. It’s one of those design elements that people tend to either love or not, simply because it’s so distinctive and unlike anything else on the market. The only drawback I found was that the crown can be a little tricky to access when pulling it out to set the time. On the larger models, however, this isn’t really an issue.

As this watch really doesn’t have a bezel, the domed crystal sits flush with the case and conforms all the way down, giving it almost one uniform surface through to the bottom of the case. The caseback is also rounded slightly, enhancing the dome shape.

For me, the dial is really where this watch shines. Cartier has done a great job of giving the silver dial different elements that contrast, but somehow, seem to fit together in a harmonious fashion.

If we start with the outer part of the dial, you can see Cartier’s classic Roman numerals making their way around the outer sunray brushed section. You may notice the Cartier writing hidden in the VII numeral, as you do with many of Cartier’s watches, and thanks to the inset crown, the numerals curve nicely around the crown indent at 3 o’clock.

On the inner dial, Cartier has crafted a wave guilloché pattern in segments, which adds more texture. Underneath, the blue-fired hands allow this dial to come to life, and the domed crystal on the watch has been crafted to give the watch that beautiful, rounded dome shape across the entire piece. From the side, it takes on a UFO shape, which is unique in itself.

The bracelet has been designed to play with the light. Polished outer “H” shaped links are combined with brushed inner links on the steel bracelet. Added to this, with no taper, the bracelet effectively provides a jewellery bracelet style of feel.

It also has a friction-style clasp that’s hidden underneath, which provides a uniform aesthetic around the wrist, but like most clasps such as this, it does prove slightly problematic when you want to get it off, especially if the watch is slightly tighter on those warmer days.

How It Wears

Due to the size and domed shape of the case of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier, this watch was always going to wear fairly comfortably on my wrist, thanks to the short lugs and the way Cartier has designed the bracelet. If you look at it closely, the links are not actually symmetrical. The H-shaped links have the crossbar weighted more towards the top. As a result, the inner links are not joined at both ends, but halfway down, and at the bottom of each centre link.

Admittedly, 36 mm isn’t really my preferred size or sweet spot, and it does lean more towards those who prefer smaller watches or have slimmer wrists. That said, this isn’t a criticism of the watch itself, but more a reflection of my own personal taste and style. If it were me choosing this piece, I would probably go for the 42 mm version, which also includes the date window at 3 o’clock. The larger version also has the push-button folding clasp, which would also aid in the ease of putting it on and taking it off the wrist.

The great thing about Cartier is that the watches are designed to be worn for any occasion, and to dress up and dress down. It’s all up to your style, and the one thing I love about Cartier is that the brand’s watches really lean into people’s personal styles, no matter what they are.

While I see the appeal of a piece like this for everyday wear, for my personal style, I’m not sure I would wear it each day. But, should I work in a more formal environment, I could see myself wearing something like this on a daily basis, versus something I would wear out to dinner.

To prove the point, as you can see, I’ve dressed more casually in the photos for this watch, and it still looks pretty good on my wrist. Comparatively, Chamath, who is dressed up more, showcases this on his 16.5cm wrist. You can see how this complements both looks. It leans into the dressier outfits and elevates a more casual one.

The Movement

Powering this version of the Cartier Ballon Bleu is Cartier’s automatic Calibre 1853. Why 1853? It refers to the year Cartier’s watchmaking activity is considered to have properly begun, when timepieces first appeared in the brand’s catalogues and follows the same naming convention as many other movements, that being a notable year in Cartier’s history.

The Calibre 1853 is compact, which allows it to fit neatly into smaller cases like this one, while still offering reliable automatic winding. It runs at 4Hz / 28,800VpH and delivers (in this model) 37 hours of power reserve. Cartier has designed it with practicality in mind, focusing on durability and stable rate performance. For a watch in 2026, it is on the lower side, but as this is designed to be worn daily, the 37 hours won’t make much difference to the wearer.

It’s also equipped with components that enhance magnetic resistance, helping the watch stay accurate in modern environments. For a piece like the Ballon Bleu, the movement isn’t meant to be a showcase, as with many Cartier watches; rather, it lets the dial, case, and crown design take centre stage.

Final thoughts

I have spent considerable time with the Cartier, and I’m still unsure whether this is for me or not. Rating this watch was also hard, as it was something very left of field for me. So, objectivity has to step in, which is why I rated the watch as I have. Everything is subjective, so putting myself into someone else’s shoes helps in this instance.

Saying this, the more time I spend with the watch, the more I can see the appeal for people who want something a little bit different on their wrist, but still something that looks slightly traditional in the sense that it is a round watch.

That really is the strength of the Ballon Bleu. It takes what would otherwise be a classic-shaped circular watch and injects just enough Cartier design DNA to make it stand out. For some people, that inset crown and asymmetrical dial will be exactly what they are looking for, while for others it might be a step too far from the norm. Either way, it’s unmistakably Cartier, and that in itself is part of the appeal.

Reference & Specifications

Feature	Specifications
Reference	WSBB0048
Dimensions	36 mm x 12.01 mm thick x 38 mm lug-to-lug
Case	Brushed & polished stainless steel case with fluted crown set with a cabochon synthetic spinel
Crystal	Domed crystal
Dial	Silver guilloché dial. Blued-steel sword-shaped hands
Caseback	Stainless steel
Movement	Automatic calibre 1853 movement, beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve	37 hours
Water Resistance	30 metres (3 ATM)
Bracelet	Steel bracelet with H link design. Double-folding clasp

Australian Retail Price: A$11,300

Availability: Available via Cartier boutiques, retailers or online at Cartier.com

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