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Cartier expands its Privé universe with a bold new 10th Opus edition and a new Privé La Collection. From timeless shaped watch design to subtle contemporary refinement, this latest release highlights just how confidently Cartier continues to evolve its most iconic creations.

Cartier’s Prive Opus is a unique collection, with only three or so timepieces being released per year within the collection. It started in 2015 as a high-end, limited-edition, collector-focused series, revisiting Cartier’s most historic designs and revamping them for the modern world of horology.

Each year, Cartier launches the Opus collection, with timepieces that place particular emphasis on Cartier’s “shaped watches”. Some of the timepieces that have been included in the past Opus editions include the Crash, the Tank
Cintrée, the Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, the Cloche, the Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale, the Tortue and the Tank à Guichets.

What makes the Opus collection highly appealing is the fact that the timepieces are not just reissues of the classics. The signature designs of the original models stay intact, but then Cartier incorporates modern finishing, materials, and movements. There is a strong emphasis on design, rather than adding new complications to the classic timepieces, prioritising form, proportion, and aesthetic heritage rather than purely technical complications.

Now for the 10th Opus Edition, Cartier is bringing 3 of its most emblematic shapes into the Privé collection, which includes the Tank Normale, the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and the Crash Squelette. There are two core themes behind all three creations. The first is the use of Cartier’s signature platinum material, and the second is the addition of the colour burgundy, imbued within the timepieces’ classic designs to create a refined yet distinctive aesthetic that ties the entire collection together.

Cartier Privé Opus – Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir

Arguably, one of my favourite timepieces from Cartier is the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir. While it is a very limited production model, I do wish that Cartier would include it as part of the regular catalogue, as it perfectly captures the brand’s balance between elegant design and refined chronograph watchmaking.

As Cartier put it, “the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir is a reinterpretation of a model from the Collection Privée Cartier Paris created in 1998, transforming the XII into an XL version”. The original Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir came with Arabic numerals for the hour indices, a rail track with minute counters, and triangles on the four corners of the dial. The modern interpretation features a more “minimalistic” approach, but still keeps the identity of the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir intact.

The name “Monopoussoir”, translated in French to mean ‘single-pusher’, is used because the start, stop, and reset functions are condensed into a single push-button integrated into the crown. The movement behind this stunning piece is also redesigned from its early editions to be approximately 4.30mm thick, making it the thinnest chronograph movement in Cartier’s catalogue.

This latest Opus edition features a silvered opaline dial that beautifully complements the burgundy details, such as the minute track, the chronograph sub-counters, and the large “XII” at 12 o’clock. The blued hands work well with the burgundy color scheme to deliver a striking yet balanced contrast, enhancing both legibility and the overall elegance of the design. Completing this aesthetic, the Cartier Privé Opus Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir is offered with a semi-matt burgundy alligator leather strap.

Cartier Privé Opus – Tank Normale

The second timepiece in the Cartier Privé Opus collection is another icon in watchmaking: the Tank Normale. Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the Tank line is one of Cartier’s most important watch families. As you may know, the design of the Tank was inspired by World War 1 military tanks, in particular the Renault FT-17, hence the strong rectangular box-shaped design of the timepiece.

A modern version of the Tank Normale was introduced in 2023 as part of Cartier’s Privé collection, with a strong emphasis on keeping the timepiece slim and elegant on the wrist, measuring 32.6 mm x 25.7 mm and 6.85 mm thick. These latest Tank Normale editions also feature Cartier’s hand-wound Calibre 070, which operates at 25,200 VpH, while offering a power reserve of 38 hours.

For the 10th Cartier Privé Opus edition, the modern Tank Normale in platinum gets an aesthetic change, with the signature details of the dial now being executed in the burgundy colour tone. The Arabic hour indices, the minute square minute track, and the ‘Cartier’ inscription on the dial are all done in burgundy, which, like the Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir above, is beautifully complemented by the blued hands to enhance both the elegance and character of the design.

Cartier Privé Opus – Crash Squelette

The Crash Squelette is the openworked version of Cartier’s iconic Crash timepiece, bringing together the distorted asymmetrical case with a skeletonised movement. The origins of the Crash date back to 1967, with the first model being created by Cartier London during the creative, rebellious Swinging London era. The first Crash Squelette appeared in Cartier’s catalogues in 2015, a limited edition model of just 67 pieces made from platinum.

In modern watchmaking, the Crash timepiece is seen as one of Cartier’s most exclusive timepieces, with waitlists spanning multiple years due to low production. As you can imagine, the Crash Squelette is even rarer, elevating the model further through its openworked movement and making it one of the most sought-after contemporary Cartier watches among collectors.

For this Cartier Privé Opus collection, it’s not just about colour changes, but rather a subtle redesign that gives the watch a more contemporary aesthetic, highlighted by a new skeleton dial. The Manufacture 1967 MC manual-winding movement takes a new shape, with the signature Arabic indices forming part of the movement being retained, while a large plate is featured at the 3 o’clock position. The distortion of the movement appears accentuated, with the crown now also being placed slightly lower than previous versions of the Crash, to give the visual that it is dragging the movement down.

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“The bridges on the mechanism have been entirely hammered by hand, using a traditional decorating technique requiring almost two hours of high-precision work for each piece. The Crash Squelette watch is available in 150 numbered limited-edition pieces.“
Cartier on the Cartier Privé Opus Crash Squelette

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To match the burgundy theme of this new Cartier Privé Opus collection, the Crash Squelette is offered in a semi-matt burgundy alligator strap, which matches nicely with the ruby cabochon on the crown. Altogether, these changes to the Crash Squelett are effective updates while retaining the timepiece’s unmistakable identity. It’s a refined update for Cartier’s most daring design.

To mark the 10th edition of the Cartier Privé Opus, Cartier is also introducing a Privé La Collection, which “brings together the emblematic watch designs featured at this gathering of watchmaking enthusiasts.” This new Privé La Collection starts with three new models, honoring three classic Cartier timepieces: Tank Normale, Tank Cintrée, and Cloche watches.

All three of these iconic timepieces share similar design codes, with the elegance of each piece being beautifully portrayed through the hours and minute hands, sleek lines, and yellow gold, a defining material for this new Privé La Collection. Each of the models also comes equipped with a dark grey alligator strap, completing the perfect dress watch aesthetic.

Cartier Privé La Collection – Tank Normale Watch

As outlined earlier, the Tank Normale is where Cartier’s rectangular watch design language first started, with this yellow gold material for the Privé La Collection staying true to the original formula. The Privé La Collection Tank Normale comes with a horizontally satin-finished golden dial, which presents a clean and understated aesthetic, and paired with the black Roman numerals, makes it unmistakably Cartier.

This particular Tank Normale is sized at 37mm x 28.65mm with a slim profile of just 5.7mm thick, which presents an elegantly refined look, exactly what’s expected of a Cartier dress watch. The dark grey alligator strap presents a nice contrast against the warmth of the golden tones of the watch, while the manually wound mechanical movement keeps the watch connected to traditional watchmaking values. It seems like a simple design on paper, but what you actually get is subtle refinements, making it timeless.

Cartier Privé La Collection – Cloche Cartier Watch

Another unconventional design in Cartier’s extensive, unique watch catalogue, the Cloche de Cartier translates to “bell” in French, standing out for its asymmetrical form, yet still managing to feel refined and elegant. The yellow gold case is matched with a golden-coloured grained dial, which contrasts nicely against the dark grey Arabic indices and blued hands.

Just like the Privé La Collection Tank Normale Watch, the timepiece is proportioned for elegance and a dress watch aesthetic, measuring in at 32.6mm x 25.7mm and just 6.85mm thick. Powered by a manual mechanical movement, the watch remains true to the traditional codes of Cartier Privé, while the unusual case design ensures that it stands apart as one of the boldest creations in this first act of the collection.

Cartier Privé La Collection – Tank Cintrée Watch

For those who like the Cartier Tank Americane, this Privé La Collection Tank Cintrée Watch will feel instantly familiar. Certainly not a new creation, as the Cintrée Watch, first released in 1921, has long stood as one of Cartier’s most elegant shaped watches, offering a more elongated and refined take on the original Tank design. In fact, it was created to be the first major reinterpretation of the original Cartier Tank.

Measuring in at 23mm x 46.3mm with a thickness of 6.95mm, this Privé La Collection Tank Cintrée Watch feels slim, yet still has wrist presence thanks to its elongated design. Just like the rest of the models in the Privé La Collection, the Tank Cintrée Watch is focused on elegance and traditional watchmaking. This is emphasised through the manual would 1917 MC Manufacture movement. With the mixture of gold and grey tones, this Tank Cintrée continues to show why it is regarded as one of Cartier’s most graceful-shaped watches.

Initial Thoughts

With the 10th Cartier Privé Opus edition, the brand once again has shown just how strong its design language is when handled with a bit of restraint. Rather than dramatically change the models or infuse new complications, the maison has instead chosen to refine them through subtle yet effective updates. Platinum and the colour burgundy are the core themes across the Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette.

The end result is a Privé Opus collection that pays homage to Cartier’s heritage, while adding a visual distinction that will resonate with buyers. The visual touches are elegant and have been done in a way to make each watch feel fresh and desirable for the modern watch collector.

And then we have the Cartier Privé La Collection, with the same philosophy of preserving Cartier’s most iconic designs, while subtly elevating them through materials and minor refinements. While the Privé Opus timepieces lean into exclusivity, the Privé La Collection feels like a celebration of the maison’s pure design codes, bringing together the Tank Normale, Cloche de Cartier, and Tank Cintrée in a way that highlights just how timeless these watches are.

Together, both Cartier Privé La Collection and the 10th Opus edition are a great reminder that Cartier does not need to rely on excess or bold changes to make an impression. When the foundation of design is already very strong, even the smallest details are enough to create something truly special!

Reference: Cartier Privé Opus – Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: P.O.A

Availability: Limited edition model (not numbered). For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Privé Opus – Tank Normale

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: P.O.A

Availability: Limited edition model (not numbered). For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Privé Opus – Crash Squelette

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: P.O.A

Availability: Limited edition of 150 models. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Privé La Collection – Tank Normale Watch

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AU $57,000

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Privé La Collection – Cloche Cartier Watch

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AU $57,000

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au

Reference: Cartier Privé La Collection – Tank Cintrée Watch

Specifications:

Australian Retail Price: AU $57,000

Availability: Available through Cartier boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Cartier.com.au