We’re going on a trip in the Ressence rocket ship! Teaming up with Terumasa Ikeda, they’ve taken their Type 9 model into deep space.
The Belgian Ressence is one of the most recognisable names in all of independent watchmaking. Its minimalist, futuristic aesthetic is unlike anything else in the industry, yet for all the style, it still backs it up with nothing short of mechanical excellence. With a particular penchant for oil-filled watches, Ressence has carved out a deeply unique position in modern horology.
All that said, they are not exactly for everyone. This is especially true as their watches become more complicated. For example, try explaining everything going on with the Type 3 Marc Newson at first glance; I would be surprised if you could. The release of the Type 9 remedied this, delivering a simpler time display at a far more accessible price point.
But for Ressence, simple is merely a suggestion. This year, the brand has introduced a new version of the Type 9 that eschews any pretence of practicality, instead leveraging traditional craftsmanship to striking effect. For this unique iteration, Ressence has turned to Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda.
More on that shortly, as we run the numbers first. The Ressence Type 9 IKE is the most demure example of the model to date. Sized at 39mm across, 42.5mm lug-to-lug and 11mm thick, its case silhouette is also the brand’s most familiar-looking to traditional watch fans, making it accessible and wearable.
It is worth noting that the thickness is partly due to the domed sapphire crystal, a key feature of every Ressence watch. This particular example will also wear remarkably light, as it is equipped with a black DLC grade 5 titanium case and a simple leather strap for comfort.
The star of the show, understandably, is the highly unusual dial layout. If you are unfamiliar, Ressence watches are far from standard, but the Type 9 IKE dials it up significantly, no pun intended. Ikeda specialises in the use of raden; Using a laser cutter, he fabricates shapes out of mother-of-pearl, inlaying them into stark black lacquer backgrounds. With an ethereal, neo-futuristic glimmer that evokes films like Akira and The Matrix, the technique has garnered him success with artworks all over the world.
On the Ressence Type 9 IKE, his skills are brought into the horological limelight. With mother-of-pearl inlays set into the domed urushi black lacquer dial, a significant challenge even for Ikeda, the watch presents a high-contrast and highly sensational display.
Reminiscent of a black hole or hyperspace, and perhaps something more hallucinatory, the effect is further compounded by Ressence’s oil-filled dial, which ensures distortion-free viewing. The vortex of colours is one of the most impressive displays of artistry in contemporary horology.
The wonder of the artistry is complemented by the horology within. Although the Type 9 IKE’s movement began life as a humble ETA 2894-2, the in-house ROCS 9 module is anything but. Featuring crownless winding and operation, the ROCS 9 enables the displaced hour subdial to orbit the periphery of the watch, attached to a larger central minute indicator.
With both elements also infused with raden by Ikeda, it is a hypnotic display for anyone who glimpses it. Beating at the standard 4Hz, (28,800VpH) and offering a 36-hour power reserve, the movement behind the Type 9 IKE is as reliable as it is remarkable.
My Thoughts
I often find it difficult to write about Ressence pieces, yet I always do so anyway. To me, Ressence’s watches are the horological equivalent of a fever dream, and that is precisely what makes them so spectacular. Nobody in the watch world does what Ressence does, because nobody else would be bold enough to attempt it.
Time and again, however, the Antwerp-based brand finds new and creative ways to evolve its already unconventional approach to watchmaking. Though the aesthetic of the Type 9 IKE is futuristic in nature, it still champions traditional mechanical and visual arts. Thanks to the efforts of both the brand and Terumasa Ikeda, the watch is the result of what happens when the past and present come together to design the future of watchmaking.
Reference: Type 9 IKE (Terumasa Ikeda)
Specifications
- Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 42.5mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness
- Case Material: Black DLC Grade 5 titanium
- Dial: Black urushi lacquer with raden mother-of-pearl inlays
- Movement: Automatic Cal. ETA 2892-A2 with ROCS 9 module displaying satellite hours & minutes
- Power Reserve: 36h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Black shiny horse leather strap with titanium buckle