A stealth Portugieser made from Ceratanium is the latest from the Schaffhausen brand, and it flips the script on what a Portugieser can be.
What comes to mind when you think of the IWC Portugieser? If you’re like me, then a Smart, refined, classic yet modern sports watch, probably. Since the 1930’s, the Portugieser has been one of the backbones of IWC, and really represents what the brand stands for today. When we caught up with Christian Knoop, Chief Design Officer for IWC Schaffhausen, in 2024 in Geneva, I think he summed it up pretty well:
“The Portugieser collection really represents the essence of the IWC brand, combining engineering and craftsmanship. The roots of the Portugieser go back to the 1930s, when it was created as a wristwatch with marine chronometer precision, taking a very robust and accurate pocket-watch movement and adapting it for the wrist, having a large diameter and a very open dial. These aspects – instrument precision, pure design, and a very technical approach to clarity and readability – are still the foundation of everything we do at IWC when it comes to watch design.”
In that conversation, which you can read in the article link below, we did ask for any hints about what was to come for the Portugieser collection, but Christian held his cards close to his chest and didn’t really give anything away. Surprise, it seems, was better.
And today, we get a small surprise in the release of the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph, and a very different-looking one at that! This time, rather than opting for a classic style, IWC has gone ultra-modern with fully blacked-out Portugieser made from Ceratanium®.
IWC says the Portugieser has entered “Dark Mode”, which is an accurate statement. The 41mm chronograph has been given a makeover. The case, crown and pushers are made from IWC’s proprietary alloy, Ceratanium®, which is effectively a ceramized Titanium alloy that is light and highly scratch-proof. It’s like Ceramic and Titanium had a love child together. The titanium is placed in a kiln and fired at high temperatures, which hardens the titanium and also gives it the black look, without the need for a coating.
To complete the stealth look, IWC has given the new Portugieser Chronograph a black dial, black hands, and applied hour markers to create a look that is not like any other Portugieser that has come before. “The all-black execution is different from anything we have ever done before. It emphasises the chronograph’s mere shape, ensuring that nothing distracts the eye from its distinctive silhouette,” explains Christian.
Inside the new all-black Portugieser is the IWC-manufactured automatic calibre 69355, which has also been given a blackened treatment. The Calibre 69355 marked an important step in the ongoing evolution of IWC Schaffhausen’s in-house chronograph movements, reflecting a clear emphasis on modern engineering and everyday reliability. Its column-wheel construction provides a precise, reassuring pusher feel, while the 4 Hz frequency and 46-hour power reserve make it well suited to real-world wear, which you can read more about in my review of the Portugiser Chronograph 41mm “Dune.
What stands out most is the movement’s sense of purpose. Like with most things at IWC, it isn’t trying to be overly elaborate or technically flamboyant; instead, it focuses on durability, serviceability, and mechanical integrity. In that respect, the 69355 feels entirely consistent with what many enthusiasts expect from a contemporary IWC chronograph — thoughtfully engineered, refined in execution, and designed with long-term ownership in mind. Could the power reserve be a bit longer? Yes, but in most cases, the Portugieser is an everyday watch, so this, for most owners, won’t be an issue.
Initial Thoughts
If you’ve read my articles on stealth watches, you probably know by now that they are not an aesthetic I naturally gravitate towards. That being said, I know they are not for me, but I know a lot of people who love the look – and this is who this style of watches is for. For this reason, I appreciate them for what they are and who they are for, so I’m not taking anything away from them.
If I refer to Christian’s comment about the full black execution, he is right; it most certainly does emphasise the shape and silhouette of the watch. It takes the Portugieser Chronograph into a very monochromatic, minimalist territory, and provides potential wearers with a watch that is not your everyday IWC Portugieser. IWC seem to feel this way as well, as the new Portugiser in Ceratanium® is limited to just 1,500 pieces worldwide. So, it will only be found on the wrists of a small number of watch lovers comparativley speaking.
References: IW371631
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 41mm, 13.1mm thick & 48mm lug-to-lug
- Case Material: Ceratanium®
- Dial: Black dial, black hands and appliques
- Crystal: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
- Water resistance: 30m / 3 Bar
- Movement: IWC-manufactured calibre 69355 beating at 4Hz (28, 800 VpH) and 27 jewels
- Power reserve: 46 hrs
- Strap: Black rubber strap with Ceratanium® pin buckle