The underrated watchmakers at Maurice Lacroix have unveiled yet another masterpiece! This time, they take the retrograde complication to the 1975 lineup.
Comparable to most legacy watch brands, Maurice Lacroix is among the younger players in the industry. Founded in 1975, the brand has consistently found new ways to combine substance and style in a more accessible package. They’ve enjoyed plenty of success over the past 51 years, particularly with the Aikon line. But watch enthusiasts know there’s more to Maurice Lacroix than meets the eye.
Case in point: the Masterpiece collection, which began life as Les Mécaniques in the 1990s. Since then, it has become the brand’s premium canvas for technical and artistic expression in horology.
Within this line, Maurice Lacroix specialises in retrograde complications, typically designing its own modules for use with base movements. So often relegated to the upper echelons of horology, the complication has nevertheless been presented by the Swiss brand to a wide range of consumers.
This year, the aim is no different. Kicking off 2026 in style, Maurice Lacroix debuts the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde. A contemporary yet grounded display of watchmaking, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde impresses both technically and architecturally. It also marks the first time the otherwise conservative 1975 line has received such an audacious makeover.
Despite its complexities, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is surprisingly wearable. Constructed from stainless steel, the watch measures 42mm in diameter and 12.75mm thick.
It may appear taller than it is, largely due to the box sapphire crystal that rises well above the bezel. Smaller-wristed wearers need not worry, as it is unlikely to wear as bulky as the side profile suggests. The watch comes fitted with a black alligator-embossed leather strap and a butterfly deployant clasp for added comfort and convenience.
If you wish to change the strap, that is easily done. Maurice Lacroix has equipped the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde with an interchangeable strap system, allowing the wearer to alter the look as desired. Given the monochromatic colour scheme, it will be some time before you run out of suitable options.
The openworked dial is a marvel to behold. I wouldn’t go so far as to call it skeletonised; to me, that implies full transparency. Instead, the stripped-back dial reveals the movement’s mainplate, finished with a granular sandblasted texture. Several bridges, almost entirely symmetrical, create a monolithic impression, with metal carefully cut and shaped to the design.
The only colours contrasting the grey are white and blue. White appears on the minute track, lumed hands, big date numerals and the sapphire arc displaying the days of the week.
Blue is reserved for the retrograde hand, which sweeps across the arc as each day passes. Personally, I would have welcomed blue hour and minute hands as well, as legibility against the grey backdrop can be compromised at a glance.
The mechanical heart, while not entirely in-house, still reflects Maurice Lacroix’s commitment to watchmaking. Inside the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde beats the Calibre ML302, the 26th movement developed for the Masterpiece line.
Its architecture is based on the ever-reliable SW200-1, an automatic movement operating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 38-hour power reserve. While that may seem modest on paper, Sellita movements have proven themselves to be durable in daily use. It may not be the first choice as a dedicated daily wearer, but if you choose to make it one, it is more than capable of the task.
My Thoughts
Maurice Lacroix is rarely the first name that comes to mind in the watch world. While some might see that as a drawback, it’s arguably a strength. It allows enthusiasts who truly appreciate the craft to discover the brand on their own terms, free from the influence of social media or the broader internet hype machine.
It can feel daunting not to have a second opinion, but sometimes it’s best to trust your gut. When it comes to Maurice Lacroix, the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde is very much a gut decision. It isn’t built to please everyone; instead, it demonstrates what’s possible in watchmaking without stratospheric price points or superfluous marketing. So if you know what you like and like what you know, this may well enter your orbit of grails sooner rather than later.
Reference: 758008-SS001-090-2
Specifications
- Dimensions: 42mm case diameter x 12.75mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Openworked with blue accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. ML302 with big date & retrograde day complications
- Power Reserve: 38h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable embossed black leather strap with steel butterfly deployant clasp