Dressed up in wintry white, this new Seiko makes the jump from the Japanese Domestic Market into the international one.
I’m sure the worlds of watches and cars intersect enough for you to know what ‘JDM’ means. If you don’t, that’s fine. Standing for ‘Japanese Domestic Market’, in the automotive world it often refers to when globally recognisable brands like Toyota or Nissan make cars exclusively for their customer base in Japan.
The same principle applies to watches. Seiko is exemplary of this, with many of their JDM pieces becoming legends in the global watch world. In fact, the mark of a true Seikophile is having the dedication to secure a JDM piece for yourself, either through travel or other means.
This year, Seiko has decided to break exclusivity on one of their most sought-after JDM models. Known as the SBSC009 in Japan, the new SSK059 has finally been brought to the international market. Part of the Seiko 5 family, the SSK059 sits within the Field designation, where field watches are noted for their practicality and toughness in daily wear.
With a case of stainless steel, the new model measures to the same specifications as its predecessors, the SSK023 and SSK025. Universally wearable, it measures 39.4mm in diameter, 47.9mm lug-to-lug, and 13.6mm thick, while offering 100 metres (10 bar) of water resistance.
With an accompanying five-link bracelet, the watch strikes a balance between reassuring solidity and long-term comfort, reinforcing its field watch credentials. Instead of traditional sapphire, a curved Hardlex crystal protects the dial. While I would have personally preferred sapphire to finally appear in the collection, Hardlex is serviceable and less prone to shattering than sapphire.
Of course, the elephant in the room is the striking visual execution of the dial and bezel. Reminiscent of a certain premium-level explorer’s watch, the Seiko SSK059 stands out through its crisp white dial and sandblasted texture.
Arabic numerals accompany the dial, adding depth without compromising legibility. The pop of orange on both the GMT and seconds hands introduces another layer of contrast. A fixed stainless steel bezel features 24-hour markings, enhancing the rugged demeanour of the Seiko 5 Field series.
Powering the SSK059 is Seiko’s Calibre 4R34, an automatic movement operating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) with a 41-hour power reserve. Two complications are offered here: the standard date window at three o’clock, as well as a GMT function. The latter is configured as a “caller” GMT, meaning the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable via the crown’s first position.
Though not ideal for frequent flyers, the caller GMT allows wearers to track two time zones simultaneously via the main hands and dedicated GMT hand, making it ideal for international calls or remote work. All of the SSK059’s mechanics are revealed through a transparent caseback, a feature rarely seen at this price point.
My Thoughts
Now, I know what some of us might be thinking: “Isn’t this just the poor man’s…” I’ll stop the sentence right there. Last I checked, I don’t believe any brand can copyright colour arrangements. I won’t pretend the resemblance isn’t there, but it’s hardly Seiko’s fault that white and orange complement each other so well. And if blatant plagiarism were truly the motivation, perhaps the previous two 5 Field GMT models Seiko released wouldn’t have become as successful as they have.
Regardless of familiar aesthetics, the not-so-JDM-anymore SSK059 scales the GMT complication down in both size and price for the Seiko’s true motive: appealing to the entry-level consumer. Not everyone is going to start at the upper echelons of the industry, so it’s refreshing to see the same practicality translated for newer enthusiasts. All in all, the new Seiko 5 Field GMT is rugged, refined, and ready for whatever the world beyond Japan can throw at it.
Reference: SSK059
Specifications
- Dimensions: 39.4mm case diameter x 47.9mm lug-to-lug x 13.6mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: White with orange accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 4R34 with caller-style GMT & cate complications
- Power Reserve: 41h
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Strap: Five-link stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp