The Year of the Horse brings special meaning to many, and for Jaeger-LeCoultre, it may be even more so, thanks to the Reverso’s roots in Polo, and a special limited edition celebrating the Fire Horse.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has never treated the Reverso as just a watch, far from it in fact. Since its creation in 1931, the swivelling case has served as both a functional innovation and a canvas for artistic expression. With the new Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’, the Maison once again leans into the latter, delivering a limited-edition piece that places handcraft and cultural storytelling at its core.
Created to mark the Year of the Horse in the Chinese Zodiac, and this year, being the Year of the Fire Horse, as one of the five elements that are linked with each Zodiacal sign. This latest Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is produced in an ultra-exclusive run of just 10 pieces worldwide, underscoring its status as a collector-focused métiers d’art creation rather than a mainstream release.
A Motif Rooted in Reverso History
The choice of the horse is more than symbolic. As mentioned, the Reverso’s origins are tied to polo, originally designed in 1931 for polo players as a way to protect their watches when on the field by ingeniously flipping the watch over to protect the (back then) glass. Polo is a sport defined by horsemanship, precision, and controlled power. In Chinese culture, the horse represents strength, vitality, perseverance, and freedom. All values that align naturally with both the Reverso’s sporting roots and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s long-standing pursuit of mechanical and artistic excellence.
This dual meaning gives the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’ a sense of depth through storytelling, grounding its decorative elements in both history and cultural significance rather than treating them as surface-level ornamentation. With this release, this is the fourth watch in the Chinese Zodiacal series that pay hommage to the Lunar New Year – with the Snake, Dragon and Tiger coming before in over the last three years.
An Engraved Caseback That Takes Centre Stage
As with many of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most compelling Reverso releases, the visual focus lies on the reverse side of the case. Here, the brand showcases the full extent of its engraving and enamelling expertise, something that Jaeger-LeCoultre has prided itself on for many decades, using traditional techniques for both the engraving and the decorative enamel.
The solid pink gold caseback is finished with opaque black Grand Feu enamel, over which a hand-engraved horse motif emerges seemingly from the case itself. Depicted mid-motion, the horse appears to surge forward from stylised golden clouds, creating a powerful sense of movement within the confined rectangular space of the Reverso case.
What makes this execution particularly impressive is the process itself. A technique called modelled engraving is used, where the engraving is carried out after the enamel has been fired, which is not the case normally, and is a technically demanding approach that leaves no margin for error. Any slip of the chisel would irreversibly damage the enamel surface, and the engraver would then need to start again.
The engraving alone requires around 80 hours of work, using ten different chisels to shape the horse’s mane and facial details. Subtle black rhodium accents are hand-drawn to elements such as the hooves and muzzle, adding depth and contrast while enhancing the three-dimensional effect. The result is a miniature artwork integrated seamlessly into the Reverso’s architecture.
A Dial To Match
Turning the case over, or rather, returning it to the dial side, reveals a dial that mirrors the caseback’s refinement. The black Grand Feu enamel dial delivers a deep, glossy surface that shifts subtly with the light, reinforcing the sense of craftsmanship rather than visual excess.
Creating this finish is a time-intensive process in its own right. Each dial requires five to six layers of enamel, applied and fired individually at high temperatures over several days. Once complete, the surface is polished to achieve a uniform, mirror-like sheen.
The dial layout remains unmistakably Reverso Tribute. Faceted applied hour markers, a classic chemin de fer minutes track, and Dauphine hands preserve the Art Deco character that defines and is iconic now of the collection. Importantly, the restrained design ensures the enamel takes precedence, maintaining balance and legibility without distraction.
Classic Proportions In Pink Gold
The case is crafted in 18-carat pink gold, measuring 45.6mm x 27.4mm with a thickness of 9.73mm. These proportions sit firmly within the modern Reverso Tribute family, offering a presence that feels elegant rather than imposing. The polished surfaces and sharp lines of the case act as a refined frame for the enamel and engraving, reinforcing the Reverso’s identity as a watch that blends geometry, function, and artistic expression.
I have always maintained that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso looks best in pink gold, especially paired with a deep black enamel dial, as it provides a perfect contrast, and also an air of refined elegance and timelessness that is associated with the Reverso. In this instance, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’ is no exception.
The Heart Of The Horse
Powering the watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manually wound Calibre 822, developed and manufactured in-house right in the heart of Swiss watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux. It is an elegant movement with a 42-hour power reserve and comprising 108 components, and is only 2.94mm thick. It beats at a galloping pace, that is, 3Hz / 21,600 VpH.
In a piece like this, mechanical restraint is deliberate. By keeping the movement simple, Jaeger-LeCoultre allows the focus to remain on craftsmanship, proportion, and finishing, which I do admire, and it is a philosophy that aligns with the Reverso’s original purpose as a refined, functional timepiece. Will it win awards? Not these days, but this is not the point, and with a daily wearing piece, which I assume if you’re purchasing this, you are in an occupation where you can, this won’t be an issue. If you’re not, then you will most probably bring this out for special occasions, or when the occasion calls for it, in which case, you will enjoy winding the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’ up.
Initial Thoughts
With production limited to just ten examples, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’ is clearly aimed at seasoned collectors who value métiers d’art as highly as mechanical pedigree. At the end of the day, this is what this piece is about – crafstmanship and artisanal flair. In one sense, it is understated and refined when worn with the main time dial showing – an elegant dress piece. In the other, somethign that can be shown off with the reverse of the case showing – a statement of what Jaeger-LeCoultre does best when it pushes beyond traditional watchmaking into artistic territory.
This release reinforces the Reverso’s unique position within modern horology as a watch that can shift effortlessly between sporting heritage, high design, and fine art, all within a single swivelling case. You have to hand it to Jaeger-LeCoultre, as this is something the brand does incredibly well and something I do admire about Jaeger-LeCoultre. If you are born in the Year of the Horse, this is one watch that should speak to you.
Reference: Q39324D3 – Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Horse’
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 45.6mm x 27.4mm x 9.73mm thick
- Case: 18-carat pink gold polished case
- Dial: Black opaque Grand Feu enamel, pink gold dauphine hands and indicies
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal
- Caseback: Black Grand Feu enamel with hand-engraved horse motif
- Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822 manual wind
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Water Resistance: 30M / 3 bar
- Strap: Black alligator leather with an interchangeable 18k gold double folding buckle