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Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out!

Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces.

However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market.

WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier

Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics.

While the Riviera collection has found its footing in the modern era, it is the Clifton collection that best exemplifies Baume & Mercier’s brand ethos.

Released in 2013, the Clifton gained popularity for its tasteful combination of heritage styling and contemporary lines. For over a decade, it has remained a compelling option for enthusiasts who want a sense of luxury without turning their wallets inside out.

Baume & Mercier Elevates Elegance with the New Clifton Collection

At last year’s Watches & Wonders, Baume & Mercier finally decided it was time to give the Clifton a much-needed design revision. As we move towards the next edition of the world’s biggest watch event, and with recent developments pushing the brand back into the headlines, it felt like the right moment for me to get hands-on with the new Clifton collection to see where the brand is going.

First Impressions

I’d assume most of us are already familiar with the situation surrounding Baume & Mercier. If not, here’s a brief recap: The brand’s parent company, Richemont, recently sold Baume & Mercier to the Italian jewellery group Damiani.

It’s an interesting move from Damiani’s perspective, as another jeweller looking to establish a stronger foothold in the horological space, and arguably a justifiable decision from Richemont’s point of view as well.

I’ve always felt Baume & Mercier was an underrated watch brand. Its Baumatic movements are nothing short of impressive, particularly at their price point. That said, the brand has historically struggled in two key areas: design and brand cachet.

The former has been steadily improving for some time, but Baume & Mercier’s position within Richemont always felt tenuous. Neighbouring brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, A. Lange & Söhne, Panerai and Piaget make the group distinctly top-heavy. With an average price point well below most of its peers, Baume & Mercier was constantly fighting an uphill battle for attention.

That dynamic may change under Damiani’s ownership, but it’s far too early to speculate on the long-term impact of the move. While the broader discourse is undeniably compelling, I’ll be assessing the revised Clifton purely on its own merits, without the context of the ongoing change in ownership.

The Design

The updated Baume & Mercier Clifton feels worlds away from the original design, yet the brand has managed to preserve its elegant identity.

From the dial side, it’s a familiar scene: a fumé blue that degrades to black around the edges. Fashioned from lacquer, the dial has a glossy appearance without any sunburst brushing. While some may lament the absence of that finishing, I personally don’t mind it. The lacquer gives the dial a distinctive character while remaining visually engaging.

Contrasting the blue and black are the white printed minute track, the white text above and below the hands, and the white crosshair that sections off the dial. It’s an interesting detail.

Baume & Mercier positions the Clifton as a tribute to 1950s gentlemen’s watches, though the sector dial gained most of its prominence during the 1920s and 1930s. That said, it’s hardly a detractor and instead adds to the watch’s timeless quality.

The remainder of the dial is largely consistent with previous models. The rhodium-plated indices remain thin, polished and faceted, while the alpha hands are finished in a similar manner.

The date window at 6 o’clock is black with white text for contrast. It’s not a perfect colour match to the dial, but unless you’re scrutinising it closely, it’s not something that will bother most wearers.

That said, three minor revisions have been made. Firstly, the minute track has been pushed closer to the edge of the dial, and the five-minute interval numerals have been removed.

Secondly, an omission: the Clifton no longer carries Baume & Mercier’s Phi logo on the dial. Finally, the double index that previously sat at 12 o’clock has been replaced with an Arabic numeral.

These changes are welcome, enhancing the watch’s dressy aesthetic and decluttering the dial overall. I do miss the Phi logo, though. Perhaps the ‘Five Days’ text beneath the Baumatic designation could have been sacrificed instead.

Moving beyond the dial and domed sapphire crystal, you’re greeted by a polished bezel that transitions into a predominantly brushed case, accented by polished chamfers along the upper and lower edges. A small fluted crown sits at 3 o’clock, bearing the Phi logo that’s now absent from the dial.

The bracelet features a three-link construction, with a brushed centre link bordered by polished outer links. I have my reservations about this configuration, having seen it once before on the Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV. High-polished links on the outside seems like it’s just begging for scratches and smudges, which is something to consider if you’d want to use the watch every day.

A subtle taper leads to a signed butterfly clasp with twin release buttons. I think this was the right choice; a traditional folding clasp would feel slightly out of place here. Finally, turning the watch over reveals a transparent sapphire case back. Secured by four screws, the polished perimeter is engraved with the usual specifications.

How It Wears

This iteration of the Baume & Mercier Clifton has seen all dimensions reduced compared to its predecessor. Crafted in stainless steel, the new model measures 39 mm across, 44 mm lug-to-lug, and 11.2 mm thick.

On the wrist, it’s a notable departure from the previous 40 mm version. While the revised dimensions clearly play a role, there’s something about the new case profile that I can’t quite pinpoint, yet it feels markedly better than earlier Cliftons I’ve worn.

For me, though, the bracelet is the undisputed star of the show. It may well be one of the most comfortable bracelets I’ve ever worn, which is saying something given I made a similar claim about the Rolex 1908 Settimo.

Even when sized slightly tighter than I prefer, the lightness of the case and the suppleness of the bracelet offset any potential discomfort.

That comfort is further supported by the bracelet’s quick-release system. While it’s nothing groundbreaking, a simple tab that allows the spring bars to be depressed, it’s a modern and welcome feature for enthusiasts who enjoy changing straps.

While I generally lament the absence of micro-adjustment, I understand that it’s difficult to implement on a butterfly clasp. Given the dressier, occasional nature of the watch, it’s hardly a deal-breaker. With 50 metres of water resistance and a case that sits close to the wrist, this is a timepiece I’d feel confident wearing as a daily.

The Movement

The beating heart of the new Baume & Mercier Clifton is arguably the watch’s greatest strength. Powering it is the Calibre BM13–1975A, an in-house automatic movement carrying the brand’s Baumatic name.

This movement is an absolute horological monster. With a 120-hour power reserve and a 4 Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, the BM13–1975A outclasses almost every movement at this price point.

The BM13–1975A is an evolution of the earlier BM12 series. Interestingly, the BM13 used in the new Clifton is no longer COSC chronometer certified.

While the accuracy purist in me is screaming and stomping his feet, this is hardly a meaningful loss in real-world terms.

There is, however, one notable reservation I have with this model, and it relates to the crown I mentioned earlier. In use, it’s fiddly due to its small size.

More concerning still is how loose it feels in operation. Early in my time with the watch, I worried that the crown might come off entirely.

While I never truly believed it would, given Baume & Mercier’s reputation for solid craftsmanship, it’s not a lingering doubt you want in daily use. Despite this, there’s no denying that the BM13–1975A represents an impressive technical achievement for the brand.

Final Thoughts

As someone who always has high expectations for watches, the 2025 Baume & Mercier Clifton still managed to surprise me. While I expected to reassess my opinion of the revised aesthetics, I didn’t quite anticipate how much the watch would charm me.

In every way, it embodies what the brand and its Greek Phi logo stand for. Every element feels thoughtfully considered, resulting in a design and wearing experience that remain impressively well balanced.

Even when faced with potential drawbacks, such as the small and finicky crown, my critical eye softened for as long as the watch stayed on my wrist. As mentioned earlier, I do have lingering concerns about the crown’s long-term durability and operation.

That said, with the Cal. BM13–1975A’s formidable 120-hour power reserve, I doubt most owners will need to interact with it all that often. Still, it’s a question that will remain at the back of my mind until a future revision addresses it.

At AU$5,400, the Baume & Mercier Clifton is a remarkably competitive offering in its segment. Its in-house movement leaves it largely unchallenged, although there are always sharks circling.

Perhaps its closest competition comes from Longines, with the AU$6,000 Ultra-Chron and the AU$5,200 Conquest Heritage presenting compelling alternatives. Other contenders include the AU$4,895 Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 and the AU$6,700 TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date. Even so, I’d argue the Clifton occupies a relatively uncontested space, smartly positioned to hold its own against all comers.

So we return to the question once more: is the dress watch dead? In the mainstream, perhaps. In the accessible quartz market, certainly not. But in the entry-level luxury market, perhaps it has been.

The 2025 Baume & Mercier Clifton tackles that challenge head-on. As the cost of entry into luxury watchmaking continues to climb, the soon-to-be Damiani-owned brand has delivered an offering that deliberately swims against prevailing trends.

While going against the current is rarely the easiest path, it does make the brand easier to spot in an industry that too often drifts with the tide. In doing so, Baume & Mercier has struck a compelling balance, delivering a contemporary timepiece for the modern gentleman without pricing him out of the conversation.

Reference: 10792

Specifications

• Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 44mm lug-to-lug x 11.22mm thickness
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial: Blue fumé with white accents
• Movement: Automatic Cal. BM13-1975A Baumatic with date complication
• Power Reserve: 120h (Five days)
• Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
• Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
• Strap: Three-link steel bracelet with butterfly clasp

Australian RRP: AU$5,400

Availability: Available now, at Baume & Mercier boutiques, authorised retailers, or online at Baume-et-Mercier.com

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