Independent watch brand Oris has unveiled a new, limited edition version of their Artelier Calibre 113. This one in particular has us feeling lucky!
It’s always fun to see two traditions collide. While some see Chinese New Year as nothing more than an opportunity for market play, in the watch world it is anything but. Yes, it helps increase visibility in the Asia-Pacific region, but almost all watch brands approach the occasion with the intent to let their hair down and have fun with what they can do.
Oris is a brand that knows the word ‘fun’ all too well. Ever since regaining its independence, it has used its creative freedom to visit places rarely ventured by the wider industry. From its marine philanthropy work to bold collaborations with the ever-popular Muppets, Oris has carved out a unique niche for itself in horological history.
So, when the time came to release a brand-new timepiece commemorating the upcoming Year of the Horse, it was expected they would jump at the opportunity.
While there was an easy path in front of them, a dial change here, a rotor there, the independent Swiss brand instead decided to challenge itself by incorporating Chinese New Year festivities into one of its most complex in-house movements.
Meet the Oris Artelier Year of the Horse Limited Edition. Utilising the highly sophisticated Calibre 113, the new timepiece is an exercise in beauty, boldness and mechanical brilliance all in one.
Crafted in stainless steel, the watch measures 43mm in diameter, with a 50mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 13.1mm. It’s certainly not a modestly sized watch, but that will be explained when we get to the movement.
In line with many other Chinese New Year editions, the Artelier Calibre 113 bears several design elements that allude to the celebration. Chief among them is the deep red dial, accompanied by two smoky fumé red subdials for contrast. Adding to the warmth are gold hands, indexes and numerals, while the movement’s complications are printed in white.
Surrounding the nine o’clock subdial is where Oris has had a little fun. Above and below it, silhouettes of horses can be found: one in full gallop at the top of the power reserve indicator, and one at rest where the reserve hits zero. It’s a playful, self-explanatory way to visualise the watch’s mechanical function.
An additional horse motif appears not on the dial, but on the strap, which is constructed from equine shell cordovan. A touch grim, in my opinion, but the level of craftsmanship involved at least treats the former horse with the respect it deserves.
At the heart of the watch is the Oris Calibre 113, a manual-wind, in-house movement from the Calibre 100 series. Running at 3Hz (21,600VpH) and offering a substantial 240-hour, or 10-day, power reserve, it is the crown jewel of Oris’ manufacture calibres.
The Calibre 113 drives a business calendar complication, displaying the day, date, month and week. A 52-week scale runs along the dial’s periphery, indicated by a central gold-plated pointer hand with a pink tip. Furthermore, all functions are adjusted entirely via the crown, with no fiddly in-case correctors. An advanced complication seldom seen in mechanical timepieces, it’s remarkable to see it appear within the walls of an independent company.
My Thoughts
As a sucker for the independent and microbrand space, I’ve always been in Oris’ corner when it comes to maintaining its brand cachet in the watch world. It’s not the first brand most enthusiasts would think of, but I believe that’s by design. Only those who know Oris tend to gush over it, and given how committed the brand is to watchmaking, it’s not hard to see why.
While its marketing may not be as ostentatious as others in the space, Oris is another example of a brand letting its work speak for itself. Again, Chinese New Year is often seen as a purely commercial exercise, but Oris has eschewed that notion. With the Artelier Calibre 113, it instead does the exact same thing that made it so beloved in the first place: making fun watches that look good and function even better.
Reference: 01 113 7806 4088-Set
Specifications
- Dimensions: 43mm case diameter x 50mm lug-to-lug x 13.1mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Burgundy with gold accents
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. 113 with business calendar (day, date, week, month indicators) & power reserve indicator complications
- Power Reserve: 240h (10 days)
- Beat Rate: 3Hz (21,600VpH)
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Brown shell cordovan leather strap with steel deployant buckle