Released for LVMH Watch Week 2026, Daniel Roth’s latest offering challenges the minimalist design with a new, skeletonised look!
Independent watchmaking has been on the rise for some time. As Oris puts it, there’s an appeal to “going your own way,” and the independent scene embodies that perfectly. From MB&F to Kudoke, there is much to discover beyond the mainstream.
One such brand is Daniel Roth, founded by the eponymous master watchmaker in 1988. Since then, he has moved on to another self-named project, Jean-Daniel Nicolas, but his legacy in haute horlogerie endures. His reputation is such that when LVMH revived the Daniel Roth brand in 2023, they brought him back to provide insight into his creative vision and horological spirit.
And while Mr Roth is no longer directly involved, it’s safe to say his first brainchild remains in capable hands. At this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Daniel Roth unveiled the next chapter in the brand’s story. Moving beyond archival revivals, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton signals the brand’s intent to evolve within the contemporary watchmaking landscape.
Skeletonisation is hardly uncharted territory for the brand. Several references have received the same treatment from Mr Roth, namely Refs. 2187 and 2147, but it has never been applied to the Extra Plat line before. Typically known for its minimalist aesthetic, keeping the Extra Plat Skeleton restrained is no small feat. Despite this, the craftsmen under Daniel Roth’s guidance appear to have done their homework, producing a watch that could easily be mistaken for a work of art.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is universally wearable, with a 35.5mm case diameter, 38.6mm lug-to-lug, and a delicate 6.9mm thickness. Diminutive as it may seem on paper, the watch has considerable wrist presence thanks to two key elements.
First, the use of 18k rose gold, lustrous and substantial, naturally amplifies the watch’s prominence. Second, the iconic Daniel Roth silhouette remains, with its double-ellipse case appearing larger on the wrist than on paper. Combined with a beige calfskin leather strap, it delivers an experience that is simultaneously extravagant and understated.
While the watch’s wearability is notable, its true impact is in the dial. The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is a study in transparency and architectural beauty. The openworked dial removes all traditional markers, tracks, and indices, leaving only the blued-steel arrowhead hands to indicate hours and minutes.
The skeletonisation reveals the full complexity of the movement, transforming the watch into a mechanical sculpture. Every surface, angle, and bridge has been carefully reimagined to balance structural integrity with visual beauty. Hand-polished finishing catches the light with every movement of the wrist, creating a constantly shifting display.
While the movement is strikingly visible from the front, the Daniel Roth brand ensures their expertise in microengineering is fully showcased. Turning the watch over reveals even more of the manual-wind Calibre DR002SR, presented in the same glory as the dial — or lack thereof.
Beating at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 65-hour power reserve, the movement was developed and assembled entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Under the supervision of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the original DR002 has been dramatically stripped back, retaining its architectural integrity while leaving nothing to the imagination.
My Thoughts
Though I consider Daniel Roth one of my favourite brands of all time, I wouldn’t call myself a Daniel Roth ‘purist’ by any means. In fact, elegance wasn’t the first thing that came to mind when I first saw my favourite watch ever, the Ref. C187. In my Gen Z, pop-culture-addled brain, all I could think of was Dr Loveless’ Spider Tank from Wild Wild West. It does look like a watch the doctor would wear, after all.
Though I trusted that archival references would remain in good hands, I had my reservations about Daniel Roth’s revival under LVMH. But with Navas and Barbasini at the helm, my doubts about the new Daniel Roth have been put to rest. I hold the Daniel Roth brand in extremely high regard, and to see it not only return but evolve has been truly remarkable. Overall, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton shows great promise for the road ahead, and I hope to see more from the brand sooner rather than later.
Reference: N/A (Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton)
Specifications
- Dimensions: 35.5mm case diameter x 38.6mm lug-to-lug x 6.9mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k rose gold
- Dial: Openworked skeleton rose gold with blued hands
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. DR002SR
- Power Reserve: 65h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Beige calfskin leather with 18k rose gold buckle