LVMH Watch Week 2026:The Carrera Seafarer is a reminder that TAG Heuer’s timing expertise extends well beyond the racetrack. By combining maritime heritage with modern Carrera design, this latest release delivers a watch that feels purposeful, refined, and genuinely well thought-out!
While we have come to know TAG Heuer for it’s mototsporting heritage, with racing being deeply embedded in its DNA, the brand’s story goes far beyond that. There’s another side to TAG Heuer that sometimes flies under the radar – their long-standing connection to the sea. The Swiss watchmaker has been involved with creating precision timing instruments on decks, just as much it as on racetracks, giving support to professional sailors where accuracy is everything.
The first maritime dedicated wristwatch from TAG Heuer was called Heuer ‘Solunar’ (derived from Solar and Lunar). This timepiece indicated the times of high and low tide at a specific location, making it an invaluable tool for sailors, fisherman or anyone who carried out activities depending on tidal conditions.
This tidal indicator for the Solunar was initially thought of by the president of Abercrombie & Fitch, Walter Haynes. Haynes commissioned Heuer to refine his idea and to ultimately produce the end timepiece, Solunar, on behalf of America’s premier high-end sporting goods retailer, which made it available to sailors and ‘outdoorsmen’. While the initial concept of the tide indicator was there, Jack Heuer went a step further to really hone in on the accuracy through mechanical precision. It’s said that “he discussed the proposed watch with his school physics teacher, who improved the calculation of the gear ratios to enhance the mechanism’s accuracy.”
The Seafarer (also known as Mareagraphe) was released a short while after the Solunar and was made to be an evolved version that included a chronograph mechanism. This added complication made the watch more appealing to sailors and professionals who needed timing instruments alongside the tidal information. Over its 77 year history, the Seafarer has had many iterations, keeping the core concept of tidal indicator and chronograph intact, while being portrayed in different aesthetic designs.
Now, in 2026, for LVMH Watch Week, TAG Heuer is bringing the Seafarer back in some of its original codes, while combining it with the modern-day Carrera design. This is one of the best versions of the Seafarer I’ve seen to date, presenting a modern look, all the while staying true to the spirit and purpose that defined the original.
Case Design
This latest Seafarer is presented in TAG Heuer’s modernised glassbox case design, which was presented back in 2023. The 42mm x 14.40mm with lug-to-lug distance of 48.60mm stainless steel case comes with a combination of fine brushed surfaces for the case sides, while the top surfaces of the lugs have a beautiful polished finish. As we’ve had Carrera Glassbox models in the past for review, it’s easy to notice the play of light and shine the case gives off with this combination of finishes.
The glassbox-style sapphire crystal provides a view of the curved dial flange, enabling higher legibility of the 60-second markings. With the way the glassbox has been designed with the curved flange, you can see the markings even when aboard a pitching boat.
Accompanying this modernised case design is a 7-link bracelet that was introduced in 2025, which features five slimmer central links in a polished finish, while the outer two central links feature a vertical brushed finish. This combination matches the aesthetic of the case nicely, giving the timepiece an overall luxury and elegant look rather than a sporty one. For a more sporty approach, however, TAG Heuer also supplies a sports strap in beige colourway to complement the dial nicely.
Dial Design
Speaking of the dial, this new Seafarer is one of the more aesthetically pleasing models I’ve seen in a while, lending back to the model’s roots. The champagne opaline dial features three sub-counters and also has three distinctive colours throughout the dial that reference the original Seafarer’s dial, which includes the ‘Intrepid Teal’ that was named after the 1967 America’s Cup-winning yacht ‘Intrepid’, alongside yellow and a touch of gold.
The 18k 3N yellow gold-plated indices and hands complement the champagne opaline dial nicely, providing an added touch of class and refinement to the timepiece. For me, the ‘Intrepid Teal’ doesn’t contrast as strongly on the hands as it does on the dial, due to both the gold and the teal shades being similar tones, slightly softening the appearance.
The tri-subcounter layout features a lacquered blue, teal & beige “azuré” minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a beige seconds chronograph counter at 6 o’clock, with a neatly executed date window sitting inside, and lastly, the tide indicator in teal blue and yellow at 9 o’clock.
The tide indicator is simple to set using the special ‘TIDE’ button located at the 9 o’clock position on the case. When the pusher is engaged, the tide disc that is divided into four quadrants begins to rotate. The four quadrants are split into either high (Intrepid Teal) or low (yellow). After checking the tide times at a given location, the disc can be rotated so that the quadrants that are marked ‘high’ or ‘low’ can be aligned with the relevant known times.
“The disc will make one complete rotation in 29.53125 days, throughout which it will accurately display when the tide will be at its lowest or highest, providing an invaluable indicator of the optimum times to sail in or out of harbours or along tidal rivers and estuaries.”
TAG Heuer on the accuracy of the tide indicator on Carrera Seafarer.
Movement
The movement powering this new Carrera Seafarer is a variation of the TH20 calibres, the brand’s new family of modern in-house automatic chronographs. This TH20-04 movement has been modified to include the tide indicator with the existing chronograph architecture, which includes the vertical clutch and column wheel for a smoother operation when engaging the pushers. The technical specs of the movement include an impressive power reserve of 80 hours, accompanied by a high-frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) ensure high rate of accuracy.
The sapphire crystal caseback gives a view of the Th20-04 tide indicator calibre, which features a skeletonised winding rotor in the shape of TAG Heuer’s logo, alongside finishing techniques such as vertical brushing, polished bevels, and Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes).
Initial Thoughts
As I’ve mentioned throughout this article, this latest TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer is one of the best re-interpretations of the original Seafarer I’ve seen in a while. This is a timepiece that goes beyond nostalgia and instead reasserts itself into TAG Heuer’s modern maritime heritage in a modern way.
Rather than a gimmick update to a signature design, the elements in the modern Carrera Seafarer are well thought-out, with the curved flange of the glassbox design providing improved legibility at a glance, the seamless date window integration alongside the aesthetic colour layout that makes it not only easy to read but pleasant to look at as well. The connection to sailing is also clear, from the colour palette to the functional tide indicator, yet the execution remains refined and relevant for everyday wear.
While there are small aesthetic choices open to personal preference, the overall result is that this is one of the strongest Seafarer interpretations to date. Successfully honouring the past while firmly positioning the model within TAG Heuer’s modern Carrera lineup!
Reference: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer (Ref. CBS2016.EB0430)
Specifications:
- Case Diameter: 42mm x 14.4mm thick, Lug-to-lug: 48.60mm
- Case Material: Steel with fine brushed and polished finishes
- Dial: Champagne opaline dial with ‘Intrepid Teal’ and yellow details. Hands and indices in 18k 3N yellow gold coating.
- Crystal: Glassbox domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
- Caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Movement: TH20-04 tide indicator calibre self-winding chronograph movement beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH
- Power Reserve: Approximately 80 hours
- Water Resistance: 100M / 10ATM
- Strap: Stainless steel, seven-row ‘beads of rice’ bracelet with fine brushed and polished links. Additional strap in beige with Intrepid Teal lining, fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp. Both come with double safety push-buttons with the TAG Heuer shield.