Closing out the UR-230 series, the new Urwerk “Black Star” is the final piece in the trilogy and a great way to cap it off at that!
Urwerk is one of the most unconventional and innovative brands on the market today. The UR-230 is just one example of this, with Eagle and Polaris already released, it was time to close out the trilogy. The new UR-230 “Black Star” is exactly that. The UR-230 Black Star doesn’t just complete the collection — it pulls it into orbit, collapsing light, colour, and expectation into a dense, almost gravitational expression of what URWERK does best.
Where the Eagle leaned into raw, technical texture with the flip-top case, and Polaris explored mineral whiteness and contrast in an all-white case and strap, Black Star moves decisively into the void between the two. It’s a watch that absorbs light rather than reflecting it, yet paradoxically uses darkness to make its mechanics feel even more alive. And, we think it’s the best of the three, subjectively that is.
A Ceramic Case, But Not Any Normal Ceramic
At first glance, the UR-230 Black Star presents itself as a familiar Urwerk silhouette: angular and futuristic. But look closer, and the material used in the Black Star is what sets it apart — not just within the collection, but within modern independent watchmaking as a whole.
The case is constructed from an exclusive laminated ceramic composite, developed specifically for Urwerk. This is not traditional ceramic. The main issue with Ceramic is that it is tough and light, but can shatter if hit hard enough, something Felix Baumgartner himself has openly acknowledged. Rather than compromise, Urwerk engineered a solution: layers of braided ceramic, fibreglass, and carbon fibre integrated into a polymer matrix, creating a case that retains ceramic’s visual precision while dramatically improving its impact resistance.
Machined into shape, the case reveals a subtle relief — smooth, flat planes punctuated by tiny sparkling points that catch and scatter light. It’s black, but not flat, if that makes sense. The visual effect is almost cosmic, which aligns perfectly with the watch’s name and inspiration.
Encasing the movement is a hermetic titanium container, effectively turning the UR-230 into a mechanical safe. This inner structure protects the calibre from shocks and environmental interference, while the outer composite shell and black DLC-treated titanium caseback complete a construction that gives you a machine on the wrist.
Wandering Hours
If you’re familiar with Urwerk, you already know that wandering hours aren’t a novelty here — they’re foundational DNA. But the way they’re executed on the UR-230 remains one of the brand’s most compelling interpretations of time display.
The UR-230 Black Star uses a three-satellite wandering hour system, mounted on a central carousel. Each satellite carries four numerals for the hours, rotating as it travels across a 120-degree minute track. The active hour is guided by a striking openworked 3D retrograde minutes hand, which sweeps across the scale before snapping instantly back to zero at the top of the hour.
Despite the complexity, legibility remains excellent — something Urwerk has quietly mastered over the years. Strategic use of Super-LumiNova across the hour markers, minute indicator, and functional displays ensures the watch remains readable even as the light disappears. Even the airbrake system indicators are lit up.
The Dual Turbine System
One of the most technically interesting aspects of the UR-230 — and one that often flies under the radar — is its dual turbine automatic winding system.
Unlike conventional automatic movements, the UR-230’s calibre UR-7.30 uses two turbines with distinct roles. One turbine absorbs shocks, protecting the movement from sudden impacts. The other acts as an aerodynamic brake, regulating airflow within the case to control winding speed and efficiency.
What makes this system particularly compelling is user control. Via a selector on the caseback, the wearer can adjust the rotor load or completely disengage the automatic system, switching the watch to manual winding. Two symmetrical indicators at 11 and 1 o’clock display the current winding status and air brake setting.
“While Polaris evoked the brightness of the North Star, Black Star belongs to the interstellar void. This black is not there to conceal. It breathes. It makes light appear in a setting of shadows. In astrophysics, a Black Star refers to the state of a collapsing star. The star then absorbs light like a black hole, but not completely, just at the cosmic boundary between being and disappearing. URWERK’s ‘Black Star’ embodies this paradoxical presence: a deep, living black that does not deny light but reveals it by draping it in shadows – a glow born from the very heart of the night.”
Martin Frei
Initial Thoughts
The UR-230 Black Star is not a watch for everyone — and it was never meant to be. Urwerk watches never are, if I’m being honest. Limited to just 35 pieces worldwide, it exists firmly in the realm of serious independent haute horlogerie, where innovation, materials science, and artistic intent intersect. And this is one of the reasons I love high-end independent watchmaking.
For collectors who understand Urwerk, this watch represents refinement rather than reinvention. As Urwerk looks ahead to new adventures in 2026, the Black Star stands as a reminder of why this brand continues to matter: it doesn’t follow time — it redefines how we experience it. And for those who have the means to afford it, you will be able to wear a piece that will set you apart from everyone else in the room!
Reference: UR-230 “Black Star”
Specification:
- Dimensions: 44.81 mm diameter x 53.55 mm lug-to-lug x 18.38 mm thick
- Case Material: Exclusive ceramic composite, developed with and for URWERK
- Case back: Black DLC-treated titanium and sapphire crystal glasses
- Dial & Movement Finishes: Baseplate in ARCAP P40, 3D minutes pointer in aluminium with counterweight; Steel central spring; hours transporter in aluminium; central carrousel and screws in grade 5 titanium. Hour-markers painted with Super-LumiNova®. Structure finely 3D-engraved with a circular satin-brushed pattern.
- Crystal: Transparent sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 30m / 3ATM
- Movement: Calibre UR-7.30 developed by URWERK. Modular automatic winding, double barrel, beating at 28,800 VpH/4 Hz
- Power reserve: 48 hours
- Strap: Vulcanized© rubber, “Kiska” reference. Velcro fastening