This isn’t just another bust-down, this is elegance of the highest form! Vacheron Constantin’s final timepiece of 2025 has been outfitted with a fully gem-set case
For two hundred and seventy (one!) years, Vacheron Constantin have firmly established themselves at the top of the totem pole of watchmaking. Frequently quoted as part of the industry’s ‘big three’, they have earned a reputation as the ‘Hades’ of the trio.
Allow me to explain. Audemars Piguet is Zeus, the almighty, or so they believe, with enough flamboyance and gusto to back it up. Patek Philippe is Poseidon, defined by its vastness and understated power, not to mention a flagship piece named after a fictional submarine. Vacheron Constantin, though, is Hades: serious, steadfast, and remarkably consistent.
Metaphors aside, this approach to horology has made them the most underrated of the bunch. That said, it does not mean they have been averse to flexing their decorative muscles. While this is often expressed through avenues such as their Métiers d’Art pieces, they have rarely ventured into the territory of high jewellery. Or at least, they hadn’t.
Meet the new pair of Vacheron Constantin Overseas 35mm timepieces. While the 35mm line was introduced relatively recently in 2023, this new pair of 2025/26 models has received several updates that position them well ahead of their peers. Crafted in either 18k white or pink gold, the duo retains the 35mm diameter but now features an updated thickness of just 9.83mm.
This will certainly help them slip under the cuff of any shirt, jacket, or long sleeve you choose to wear with them. That said, it does not diminish their wrist presence. In my experience, integrated bracelet sports watches always wear larger than their standard counterparts, so expect these to feel noticeably denser than you might anticipate, thanks to all that gold.
If you are craving a slightly lighter experience, fear not, as Vacheron Constantin have come prepared with both rubber and leather straps for each model. The white gold version is paired with a striking blue alligator strap, while the pink gold model is matched with a vivid fuchsia alternative, with both rubber straps finished in white.
Now that we’re done messing about, let’s address the elephant in the room. What I’m referring to, of course, is the sheer number of diamonds crammed onto the collection. Totalling a mighty 1,430 diamonds, (~12.58 carats), these precious stones cover virtually every facet of the watch.
The case features 60 diamonds on the bezel, with a further 98 set into the case and lugs. The dial accounts for 314 brilliant cut diamonds, while the buckles on the accompanying leather and rubber straps each carry 62. The bracelet, however, is where things become truly extravagant, housing an eye-watering 884 diamonds on its own.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 35mm uses the same movement as the earlier models from two years prior: the automatic Calibre 1088/1. With a respectable 40-hour power reserve and a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate, it meets all the luxury standards you have come to know, love, and expect from a brand as prestigious as Vacheron Constantin.
Diamonds notwithstanding, what stands out to me most is the updated case thickness in relation to the movement. Shaving nearly a full millimetre off the height of the watch might sound minor, but it is a remarkable feat of engineering that reflects Vacheron Constantin’s constant pursuit of horological perfection. Given that the movement itself measures just 3.83mm thick, further refinements always felt inevitable.
My Thoughts
In our Boxing Day article, we briefly touched on discussing the differences between ‘bust-down’ and factory-set models. Why is one frowned upon while the other is praised? The answer is simple: a bust-down watch was not made that way originally. It was likely a standard model, indistinguishable from any other in its product line, before being drilled and set with jewels by a third party.
While there are some genuinely remarkable watch customizers who specialise in this sort of work, the unfortunate reality is that their skill and quality will always remain under scrutiny.
With a factory-set model, however, you know the watchmakers at the brand had the watch’s bejewelled future in mind from the outset. As a result, it is executed without outside influence, adding an extra layer of quality assurance for the wearer.
While the idea of a sparkly watch, bust-down or otherwise, may not appeal to everyone, it is a step Vacheron Constantin have arguably needed to take to consolidate their watchmaking prowess. As contemporary culture continues to blur the lines between formality and informality, it has inspired the often soft-spoken brand to push its artistry in bolder directions. Here, that has resulted in a near-perfect blend of Vacheron Constantin’s traditional watchmaking techniques and the confident flamboyance of a rapidly evolving modern industry.
References: 4617V/215G–H039 (White Gold) / 4617V/215R–H040 (Pink Gold)
Specifications
- Dimensions: 35mm case diameter x 9.83mm thick
- Case Material: 18k white or pink gold with 60 baguette-cut diamonds (bezel) & 98 brilliant-cut diamonds (lugs)
- Dial: Full-set with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds & 12 baguette-cut hour markers
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 1088/1 with date complication
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Power Reserve: 40h
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable 18k matching gold bracelet with 884 brilliant-cut diamonds OR blue (white gold) / fuschia (pink gold) alligator leather strap OR white rubber strap with 18k matching gold pin buckle with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds