Taking a look back at their 90s-era design, the craftsmen at Jaeger-LeCoultre have brought back a fan favourite design! The new limited edition Master Control Classic is a celebration of simplicity and old-school elegance.
As we trudge forward into 2026, I wouldn’t be surprised if some of us felt a little nostalgic for the good old days. I already feel slightly unhinged calling the 1990s the ‘good old days’, but the world really was different back then. Instead of matcha lattes, self-driving cars, and questionable politics, the 90s had iconic sitcoms, unique hairstyles, and… well, questionable politics. Some things never change, I suppose.
What has changed, though, is the landscape of fine watchmaking. Richemont brand Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to that reality, having witnessed remarkable shifts over nearly two centuries. With that has come rapid evolution in its design language, moving from Art Deco to retro to minimalist, and eventually circling back again. Throughout it all, however, the brand has maintained the same reliability and high-performance mechanics that earned it the moniker of the ‘watchmaker’s watchmaker’.
In the 1990s, the Master Control collection epitomised that philosophy. It launched alongside Jaeger-LeCoultre’s then-new 1,000-hour Control certification, with 42 days of physical testing proving the Master Control line could withstand the everyday rigours of life. The result was a major success, with the collection integrating itself into the permanent roster of the Swiss brand.
But like anything, it has been subject to change. While not wholly unrecognisable, modern Master Control references are far removed from their original counterparts, featuring more complications and larger case sizes. Recently, however, Jaeger-LeCoultre appears to have taken a moment of reflection, choosing to release a new limited-edition Master Control that stays close to what the collection was during its initial run.
That’s exactly what this new Master Control Classic is: a refreshed version of the original design, with all the modern fixings Jaeger-LeCoultre can muster. Housed in a 36mm stainless steel case, it’s 1mm smaller than the original’s 37mm, but no lesser for it. The demure diameter is complemented by an 8.15mm thickness, allowing it to slip elegantly under most shirt cuffs and jacket sleeves. The dial is as clean as ever, with a blue seconds hand, dauphine hour and minute hands, and Arabic numerals set against a sunray-brushed silver backdrop.
While you won’t be taking this watch swimming any time soon, it does offer 50m of water resistance, which should prove helpful if you get caught in the rain or accidentally run it under a tap. Try not to, though, as the Master Control Classic comes on a gorgeous brown ostrich leather strap. Exceptionally durable, soft and flexible, the exotic leather gives the watch a unique appearance and an unmistakable ’90s vibe. It even features a quick-exchange system!
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic Calibre 899 resides within, a movement that has served as the brand’s old reliable for nearly twenty years. That might seem like a curious choice for an updated design, but the Calibre 899 hasn’t been gathering dust. The movement has been updated to deliver a 70-hour power reserve, all while maintaining the luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate.
You won’t see it at work through the solid caseback, though that carries its own point of interest in the form of an engraved emblem from the earliest Master Control models. The 1990s medallion design symbolises the brand’s 1,000-hour Control certification, which confirms that the fully cased watch, not just the movement, has been tested to ensure exceptional mechanical accuracy.
My Thoughts
While most of us are beginning to sag beneath the weight of nostalgia-fuelled watchmaking, it’s still nice to see lesser-mentioned models like the Master Control collection getting some love. The Master Control Classic, in particular, is one that Jaeger-LeCoultre fans have been clamouring for the brand to revive. While it’s not exactly the same as before, namely the 1mm smaller case, it’s still a positive example of the brand listening to its consumer base.
I do have to say, though, that I have reservations. Jaeger-LeCoultre risks becoming too top-heavy, and the question of which model truly serves as the brand’s ‘entry-level’ remains hotly debated. The Master Control Classic seems well placed to occupy this unclaimed territory, yet it’s limited to just 500 pieces.
Maybe it’s the ostrich strap. It’s a distinctive leather, and certainly not cheap to mess about with. Still, this release may simply be a litmus test for what’s to come from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Hopefully, we’ll see a shift towards filling that gap in the future, perhaps with additional Master Control Classic variants. Doing so would offer considerable potential for the brand and help stabilise its position within the industry.
Reference: Q4008520
Specifications
- Dimensions: 36mm case diameter x 8.15mm thick
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Sunray brushed silver with blue accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 899
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Power Reserve: 70h
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable brown ostrich leather with steel pin buckle