Day 10 of our Christmas Countdown, and so we ask the annual question: Have you been Naughty or Nice? Don’t worry, though: We have recommendations for both sides of Santa’s list!
As the man in the red suit comes around once more, it’s time to see where your horological habits have landed you. Perhaps you’ve made the Nice list, eyeing watches of a simple yet elegant flair. Or maybe, you’re firmly on the Naughty list, having decided to be a little more indulgent with your collection.
Thankfully, we aren’t here to judge. In fact, whether you’re craving something refined or bold, well behaved or mischievous, we’ve curated ten timepieces to suit both temperaments. So join us as you discover which side of Santa’s list you’re truly on!
Mario’s First Naughty Watch
TAG Heuer Monaco ‘Dark Lord’
Where better to start a naughty watch list than with one purpose-built for your villain era? The standard TAG Heuer Monaco has long been known as a rebel against tradition, with its unmistakably square case first appearing in 1969. However, it was the 1974 debut of the Heuer Monaco Ref. 74033N that truly captured the imagination of collectors and fans everywhere.
Clad in an all-black case, the ‘Dark Lord’ moniker emerged in the late seventies after watch lovers drew comparisons to Darth Vader from Star Wars. Very few were made, and it quickly vanished from the spotlight. That is, at least, until very recently. TAG Heuer decided to revive the nefarious timepiece with a modern homage. Now executed in black DLC titanium, the new and improved ‘Dark Lord’ returned to terrorise wrists everywhere in 2022, and it has shown no signs of disappearing since.
Australian RRP: A$14,000
Availability: Available now, at TAG Heuer boutiques, retailers, or online at TAGHeuer.com
Sam’s First Nice Watch
Cartier Santos de Cartier
A watch that is the complete opposite of TAG Heuer’s Monaco Dark Lord? I can’t think of a better timepiece than Cartier’s elegant and stylish Santos. The Cartier Santos is an understated luxury watch and one of the most recognisable timepieces in the world of horology.
Compared to the Monaco Dark Lord, the Santos features a clean dial that prioritises balance and readability. Personally, I’ve chosen the green dial option, as the sunburst finish gives the timepiece great visual character while also tying in nicely with the theme of Christmas. The Cartier Santos is a watch that is refined, timeless, and effortlessly tasteful, which I think is the very definition of “nice”.
Australian RRP: A$13,000
Availability: Through Cartier boutiques, retailers, or online at Carter.com.au
Mario’s Second Naughty Watch
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis In Machina Central Tourbillon
Sure, the Santos is a nice counter to the Monaco Dark Lord, but let’s see what Sam can do against this. Roger Dubuis’ modern references have become known for being radical and unapologetically over-engineered, and this piece is perhaps the cherry atop an already decadent cake. Meet the Orbis In Machina Central Tourbillon!
Not only is the name devilishly difficult to say, but the design and engineering are enough to strike fear into even the most conservative watch lover. Roger Dubuis’ distinctive sporty aesthetic is amplified by the sheer wrist presence of a 45 mm case. Adding to that is the central tourbillon, designed to hypnotise all who come into contact with it. However, the watch’s audacious design and complexity are hardly compensating for a lack of horological substance. The movement is marked with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, recognising its exceptional construction and finishing.
Australian RRP: On Request
Availability: Limited edition of 88 timepieces. To enquire, book an appointment through RogerDubuis.com.au
Sam’s Second Nice Watch
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365
Mario’s Roger Dubuis pick fits perfectly into the Naughty theme with its all-black, futuristic design. So when I thought about a watch to counter this, I immediately leaned toward something deeply rooted in tradition, a timepiece that values vintage design and timeless appeal over bold complications and futuristic aesthetics.
The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 fits this role perfectly, with a case and dial aesthetic grounded in centuries of traditional watchmaking. What really makes it stand out is the 18k Breguet gold case, which contrasts beautifully against the grand feu enamel blue dial. While it may appear to be a simple timepiece with just hour and minute indications, it also features a minute repeater complication, executed with true refinement. This is a connoisseur’s watch that whispers rather than shouts.
Australian RRP: A$509,600
Availability: Through Breguet boutiques, retailers, or online at Breguet.com
Mario’s Third Naughty Watch
Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash
Okay, so the Breguet might be able to go toe-to-toe with Roger Dubuis’ complexity, but nothing in the watch world quite looks or behaves like a Hublot. Furthermore, Hublot is known for collaborating with some of the world’s most distinctive artists, which makes certain special pieces even harder to match!
Case in point: the Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash. Teaming up with Daniel Arsham, this timepiece marks the brand’s second collaboration with the acclaimed artist, following his piece unique pocket watch. In a demonstration of the fluidity of time, Hublot and Arsham designed the watch to appear as though it has been carved and frozen in ice. It is a sculptural, shapely timepiece with virtually no equal, and one that should definitely tempt some of you over to the naughty side.
Australian RRP: A$104,000
Availability: Limited to 99 pieces. Available via Hublot boutiques, retailers, or online at Hublot.com
Sam’s Third Nice Watch
Berneron Mirage Tiger Eye
To counter Mario’s Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash, I’ve gone with the Berneron Mirage timepiece, in particular the model with the Tiger Eye dial. Berneron sums this watch up best with the statement: “The creative theme of the Mirage collection is the absolute refusal to comply, in order to offer a modern and derestricted approach to mechanical watchmaking.”
The unorthodox case and dial design, along with the hands themselves, closely match the MECA-10 Arsham Splash’s unique take on high-complication watchmaking. The Tiger Eye dial, combined with the unconventional caseback design and finishing, is the final touch to a watch that truly feels like independent watchmaking — unleashing creativity with genuine artistic direction.
International RRP: CHF 54,000
Availability: 48 timepieces per year, allocated on demand. For more information, please head to Berneron.ch
Mario’s Fourth Naughty Watch
Fam Al Hut Möbius
If you know me, then the fact that I’ve included an independent is hardly a shock. That said, having followed Fam Al Hut’s progress for a while now, it felt right to give them one more shout-out. Believe me, even if this one sits firmly on the naughty list, the Möbius is one heck of a nice watch.
The reason it earns its place here is because it defies convention in so many unexpected ways. The Fam Al Hut Möbius is another horological beat from the East, manufactured in Chongqing. It features a fully skeletonised dial, offering a double retrograde display and a bi-axial tourbillon, all housed within a uniquely pill-shaped case. It’s not something you’ll ever see on the street, and it gives my naughty list a distinctive, futuristic flair.
International RRP: US$32,000
Availability: By inquiry only. See FamAlHut.com for more information.
Sam’s Fourth Nice Watch
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
One of my favourite Jaeger-LeCoultre releases, the Hybris Mechanica, is the perfect timepiece to take on Fam Al Hut’s Mobius. While it’s not a direct opposite like some of my other choices, where I’ve leaned more toward class, refinement, and elegance over multiple complications or a skeletonised aesthetic, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica is my nice guy with an attitude watch.
As expected from Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Hybris Artistica features masterful finishing and engraving, along with beautiful métiers d’art. Thanks to the Reverso’s double display, the timepiece showcases a flying tourbillon, an instantaneous perpetual calendar, and the time display on the “front” dial, while the reverse side features a minute repeater. If that wasn’t enough, the caseback also reveals the anomalistic lunar cycle alongside the draconic lunar cycle. These are just some of the features of this highly technical piece. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 185 is haute horology done right, with taste, balance, and respect for tradition.
Australian RRP: On Request
Availability: Upon inquiry only, at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques or online at Jaeger-LeCoultre.com
Mario’s Fifth Naughty Watch
Richard Mille RM75-01
If we’re talking naughty watches designed to scream from any distance, you can bet your bottom dollar that Richard Mille will always make the cut. And what better piece to personify delightful excess than their most recent mechanical masterpiece?
The Richard Mille RM 75-01 bares it all — and then some — but by no means is it purely for show. Like the Roger Dubuis, its construction tells only half the story, but what a half it is! Made entirely of sapphire, it houses a fully skeletonised flying tourbillon movement. On top of that, the mechanics are hyper-tough, with movement components crafted to the same exacting standards found in the aerospace industry. With enough on show to make a nudist run for cover, the RM75-01 is the epitome of “naughty” horology without expletive design.
Australian RRP: On request
Availability: Upon inquiry only. See RichardMille.com for more information.
Sam’s Fifth Nice Watch
Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase
Back to elegance and refinement for me. The perfect watch to go up against Richard Mille’s RM 67-02, a timepiece that is futuristic in design at its core, is Vacheron Constantin’s Malte Moon Phase. The Malte Moon Phase features a tonneau-shaped case with graceful, classical proportions.
In contrast to Richard Mille’s skeletonised dial, the Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase brings a sense of poetry, with an elegant dial design and timeless appeal. This is a watch designed to be admired quietly, rather than noticed from a distance. Exuding sophistication and elegance, the Malte Moon Phase pairs a pink gold case with a silver-toned dial for a truly timeless look. It’s the kind of watch that reveals its beauty over time, rewarding those who appreciate restraint, heritage, and thoughtful design, the very definition of a “nice” watch.