Zenith didn’t hold back with the DEFY Extreme Chroma, and honestly, that’s exactly why it hits so hard. Explosive colour, insane mechanics, and a presence you can spot from across the room. This is Chroma at its absolute best!
Zenith’s DEFY Extreme collection has served as the brand’s platform to create experimental timepieces and push the boundaries of design and engineering. Taking the base DEFY models, the Extreme collection ramps everything up, from bold contemporary aesthetics to upgrading the El Primero movement with new technical feats. With the release of the new Chroma limited editions, Zenith brings together the technical mastery of the DEFY Extreme collection with a tried and tested vibrant aesthetic.
This is, of course, not the first time Zenith has given a watch the “Chroma Treatment”. Previously, the DEFY 21 donned the colour aesthetic, with the Chroma II being available in either white or black ceramic. The design took the base DEFY 21 collection and gave the indices and movement plates the rainbow coloured effect, transforming the DEFY 21 timepieces into an artistic display.
This exact same design concept has now been carried over to the brand’s most extreme collection, transforming the timepieces with the high-energy “mechanical rainbow”. These new DEFY Extreme editions also dip into fresh new territory by fusing the titanium cases with black or white ceramic elements, giving each of the two timepieces fresh new identities. When you see the DEFY Extreme collection, you immediately notice that these are watches designed for wrist presence. From the angular case construction to the openworked dials, this bold visual aesthetic has now been amplified even further with the use of vibrant gradient colours across both the movement and dial.
This tasteful and standout aesthetic is only the canvas for one of the world’s most technically advanced high-frequency chronograph movements: the El Primero 9004. Zenith has now turned this masterpiece calibre into a work of art with the rainbow coloured PVD bridges that are visible through the openworked dial.
Like the DEFY 21 Chroma II release, Zenith has unveiled two editions of the DEFY Extreme Chroma. The first is the DEFY Extreme Chroma in microblasted titanium with black ceramic elements, presented in a matching black rubber strap. The second offers a contrasting look, this time crafted in a microblasted titanium case with white ceramic elements and a white rubber strap. Both timepieces are limited to 100 pieces each.
Case Design
The two new DEFY Extreme Chroma editions are presented in a sharply sculpted 45mm titanium case that beautifully highlights the collection’s signature architectural case design. Depending on the version, Zenith pairs the microblasted titanium case with either black ceramic elements or the brushed and polished titanium with white ceramic.
The dodecacognal bezel, crown, and pusher protectors are created in the colour ceramic material, offering an overall different contrasting aesthetics. The microblasted case with black ceramic elements has a subtle appearance, which is countered by the vibrant and colourful dial display. The white ceramic version, however, takes the complete opposite approach and amplifies the watch’s coloured aesthetic, enhancing the watch’s expressive, full-spectrum visual impact. The cases also offer real-world practicality, with 200m water resistance and include Zenith’s quick-change strap system, allowing you to instantly switch between the supplied rubber straps to the additional Velcro strap or titanium bracelet.
Dial Design
As is the case with Zenith’s DEFY Extreme collection, the dial comes openworked, giving a glimpse into the mechanical mastery sitting inside. What I do love about Zenith’s approach to these new Chroma editions is that the brand hasn’t used the same rainbow coloured effect for both versions. Firstly, the black ceramic version features more vibrant and dominant colours, such as red, orange, deep blue, bright pink, and green. As the colours make their way around in the gradient effect, which is easily visible through the hour indices, this chromatic flow is reflected within the movement itself, where the beautifully finished PVD-coated bridges carry the same spectrum of colours. The skeletonised sub-counters also mirror this colour gradient effect, tying the entire dial together in a stunning manner.
The white ceramic model follows this exact recipe, but now with lighter coloured tones. While the bold and vibrant coloured tones work really well for the black ceramic timepiece, as the colours are able to stand out beautifully against the surrounding black background, this version takes on an entirely different approach. The softer colours pair perfectly with the bright white aesthetic to create an absolutely stunning and more uplifting expression of this Chroma concept.
Movement
Both of these new DEFY Extreme Chroma timepieces use Zenith’s El Primero 9004 movement. This is, hands down, without a doubt, one of the most complicated and precise automatic chronograph movements on the market today. The El Primero base movement is already an incredible piece of technology, and what Zenith has done is enhanced it even further with a dual-escapement architecture that is engineered to measure 1/100th of a second.
The primary escapement beats at a rate of 5Hz (36,000 VpH), while the dedicated chronograph escapement beats at a mind-boggling rate of 50Hz (360,000 VpH). This allows the central chronograph hand to rotate around the dial once every second, delivering a visual signature that is truly unique to Zenith. Even with such an incredibly precise movement, Zenith has still been able to deliver a power reserve of 50 hours thanks to two independent barrels.
If you thought that was impressive, turn the watch over to be delighted by one of the most colourful casebacks in Swiss watchmaking. Firstly, the movement bridge is coloured blue for the white ceramic model, while the chronograph escapement is bright orange (white ceramic model) or a light pink/purple colour for the black ceramic timepiece. The skeletonised rotor, shaped into Zenith’s iconic five-pointed star, continues this chromatic expression with a striking green finish (white ceramic) or a bold electric blue (black ceramic). Together, these elements create a dynamic, multi-layered burst of colour that transforms the El Primero 9004 into a true “mechanical rainbow” on the wrist.
Final Thoughts
These Chroma editions for me embody everything that makes Zenith who they are in the world of watchmaking. They aren’t afraid to push boundaries, whether it be through horological technical creations or artistic expressions like this. These new DEFY Extreme Chroma editions are the perfect embodiment of this, standing out when others play it safe. Bold design, technical innovation, and a willingness to push colour, material, and engineering beyond convention, these pieces aren’t designed for everyone, but for those who really appreciate fearless creativity and unapologetic expression in high-end watchmaking.
My personal preference? I’d say with a watch like this, go the full distance. The Chroma effect already makes the timepiece stand out, so why not complete that look with the white ceramic details? The microblasted titanium case with black ceramic elements offers a more subdued appearance, but what it does is let the Chroma rainbow dial effect take the spotlight. The white ceramic version, however, shares this spotlight, making the whole timepiece noticeable from a distance. The kicker is that the white ceramic version also has a beautiful caseback that is just as colourful as the dial!
With these two new DEFY Extreme Chroma editions, Zenith proves once again that haute horlogerie doesn’t have to be reserved or understated. It can be daring, expressive, and unapologetically vibrant!
Reference: Zenith DEFY Extreme Chroma (Black Ceramic) (Ref. 97.9113.9004/33.I200)
- Dimensions: 45mm x 15.4mm thick, lug-to-lug 51mm
- Case Material: Micro-blasted titanium with black elements
- Dial: Skeletonised dial with rainbow coloured gradient effect for indices, sub-counters, and movement.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Water resistance: 200 meters
- Movement: In-house Calibre El Primero 9004 (dual escapement)
- Strap: Black rubber strap. Additional titanium bracelet or black Velcro strap.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU $31,900
Availability: Limited to 100 timepieces. Available through Zenith boutiques and authorised retailers. For more information, please head to Zenith-watches.com.au
Reference: Zenith DEFY Extreme Chroma (White Ceramic) (Ref. 95.9114.9004/69.I203)
- Dimensions: 45mm x 15.4mm thick, lug-to-lug 51mm
- Case Material: Brushed & polished titanium with white elements
- Dial: Skeletonised dial with rainbow coloured gradient effect for indices, sub-counters, and movement.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Water resistance: 200 meters
- Movement: In-house Calibre El Primero 9004 (dual escapement)
- Strap: White rubber strap. Additional titanium bracelet or white Velcro strap.