Classic lines and modern functionality – How could you pass this one up? The French microbrand Serica has suited up their newest timepiece with a tuxedo dial.
When it comes to tough field watches, one should look no further than Serica. Founded in 2019 by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette, the brand has remained committed to building a truly working watch. Not working in the sense that the originals failed to function, but in the sense of returning mechanical watchmaking to its original, utilitarian purpose.
The path has deviated at times, particularly with the Ref. 1174 Parade collection gaining traction. Still, the goal has stayed the same. Serica’s dedication to heritage-inspired, ruthlessly engineered tool watches has allowed it to establish itself as a standard-bearer within the microbrand market.
But just because they’re tools doesn’t mean they can’t have a bit of flair. Granted, Serica’s greatest strength is the versatility of its catalogue, so any addition needs to be considered carefully. In years past, however, the brand found success with one particular design niche: the tuxedo dial.
The tuxedo dial isn’t an unfamiliar sight within the Serica line, but it hasn’t appeared since the Ref. 4512, and it has been some time since one returned. This year, Serica fans who have waited with bated breath can finally exhale. Just in time for Christmas, Serica has unveiled a new version of the Ref. 6190 within the aptly nicknamed TXD line.
Before we get into the art, one must understand the frame. With a demure 37.7 mm case diameter, the Ref. 6190 is designed to sit slick and unassuming on the wrist. This is reinforced by the 46.5 mm lug-to-lug and its low-profile 10.4 mm thickness. Don’t let the on-paper dimensions fool you, though; this small package still delivers a big punch, offering 200 metres of water resistance and the option of a left-hand crown variant.
Enhancing both the wearing experience and the heritage-inspired aesthetic is the delightfully unusual Bonklip bracelet. Used widely in the early twentieth century as an affordable alternative to other steel bracelets, the Bonklip quickly became popular for its flexibility, comfort and easy adjustability. Don’t ask me to try adjusting one, though — I had the embarrassing honour of getting it wrong repeatedly in front of Jérôme Burgert himself.
But why, of all dials, is the tuxedo Serica’s weapon of choice? An offshoot of early sector-dial designs, tuxedo dials emerged toward the end of the Art Deco movement. Synonymous with class and formality at the time, the tuxedo dial’s contrasting sections created a compelling look that didn’t overstimulate the senses or overpower a suit.
In that sense, it’s the perfect aesthetic companion to the minimalist silhouette that defines much of Serica’s roster. It adds a touch of fun — though not too much — to what is otherwise a serious, no-nonsense timepiece. A bit like how the brooding, analytical Max Verstappen and the boisterous, yet hardy Daniel Ricciardo were once paired together.
Where this version of the Ref. 6190 TXD separates itself from its predecessors is the new colourway. Swapping the traditional black and white contrast for black and beige, it offers a tasteful nod to the golden age of tool-driven watchmaking. Yet it avoids drifting into nostalgic faux-tina territory, maintaining the same level of contrast and readability as the earlier models.
While Serica aren’t often in the business of showcasing their movements, it’s safe to say that horologically, you’re in good hands. Inside the Ref. 6190 TXD is the Soprod Calibre M100, a Swiss movement also used by brands such as Baltic, Oak & Oscar, and even its parent company owner, Perrelet. A time-only calibre, the M100 beats at the luxury standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) and offers a respectable 42-hour power reserve.
Where Serica separates itself from most microbrands is in its use of the COSC-certified version of the M100. If you’re unfamiliar, this certification means the watch’s accuracy is tested to an impressive threshold of –4/+6 seconds per day or better. It’s an important distinction, especially in the realm of purpose-built timepieces, and it reinforces the French brand’s dedication to precise, no-nonsense engineering.
My Thoughts
When I visited the Serica boutique during this year’s Euro Summer (more on that soon), I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. Browsing the catalogue online can only tell you so much, and I had no idea how I’d react to seeing Serica watches in person.
A bit of a spoiler, but I was genuinely surprised. What shocked me most wasn’t the design. It was the sheer solidity of every timepiece I handled, including the Ref. 1174 dress models.
Every timepiece I handled had a firm density to it, a weight that reassured me the build quality was nothing short of remarkable. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn’t expect the Ref. 6190 TXD to feel any different.
And that’s a good thing. With how robust and confident each watch felt and functioned in my hand, I can say with certainty that this new model will behave in exactly the same way. While still clean and minimalist, the Ref. 6190 TXD proves, for the third time, that Serica can make even the toughest gorilla look damn good in a tuxedo suit.
Reference: 6190 ‘TXD’
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 37.7mm case diameter x 46.5mm lug-to-lug x 10.4mm thickness
- Case Material: Titanium & stainless steel
- Dial: Enamelled two-tone black & beige ‘tuxedo’
- Movement: Automatic Soprod Cal. M100 with COSC Chronometer certification
- Power Reserve: 42h
- Beat Rate: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
- Strap: Steel Bonklip® bracelet in either small, regular, or extra long with a clasp