Capping off a great 270th year, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled three new Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models in white gold and pink gold, plus a diamond-set 18k white gold version to top it off.
Perpetual calendar movements, to me, are probably the epitome of watchmaking. You could argue there are other high complications that are better or more complicated, or complex, but for me, a perpetual calendar really underlies what mechanical watchmaking is all about. Whenever I am trying to explain why I love watches, and also mechanical watches to a “non-watch person”, which inevitably is followed up by the question, “Why are they so expensive?” I always use the perpetual calendar as an example.
A small movement consisting of wheels, gears, cogs, and of course, a main spring, the escapement and balance wheel, and all of this works in seamless synchronization to showcase the day, date, month, year, leap year, and phases of the moon with a high accuracy, and not to mention the fact that most perpetual calendar movements will be accurate without adjustment up to the year 2100. When you explain this to someone who isn’t into watches like I am, or if you are reading this, you are, it then gets them thinking about why this hobby is so cool and why I always explain it as a combination of art and science.
In my humble opinion, one of the best manufacturers in the business of perpetual calendars, and let’s face it, there are quite a few in the watch industry, none other than Vacheron Constantin. Many brands out there make a perpetual calendar movement, but there are very few that can pull this off in an ultra-thin movement, especially like the calibre 1120 QP as inside the new traditional from Vacheron Constantin.
This is a moment that was developed in crafted by Vacheron Constantin and measures only 29.6 mm in diameter and 4.05 mm thick. It’s a manual winding movement with a 40-hour power reserve beating in a slow but steady 2.75 Hz, or if you prefer, 19,800 VpH. Vacheron Constantin manages to squeeze all 276 components, including the 36 jewels, into the movement, which ends up in a case that is 36.5 mm in diameter by 8.43 mm thick. Not bad!
Speaking of the case, this is the first time Vacheron Constantin has made non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches in this case size. However, the Vacheron still has included one in this new collection, and an 18k white gold model with a diamond-set bezel.
The trio comprises an 18k 5N pink gold Traditionelle and an 18k white gold Traditionelle. Each is complete with 18k 5N pink gold hands and indices, which offset the silver opaline dial on both models. On the pink gold, the moonphase has a darker blue background, and is on a light brown alligator leather strap, whereas on the white gold model, the moonphase is lighter to complement the blue alligator leather strap.
On the 18k White gold with the diamond-set bezel, the hands, indices and moonphase aperture are 18k white gold, which against the silver opaline dial gives the watch a cleaner, more modern feel, especially with the dark blue alligator strap. The bezel and lugs are set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds (-0.96 cts), and in addition, the crown is set with 1 round-cut diamond (-0.14 cts).
The dials also showcase all of the relevant information you need on a perpetual calendar. At the 12 o’clock position, you have a 48-month indicator that shows the first month of each quarter of the year (January, April, July and October) and subsequently, broken into the 4 years – one per quarter, with the leap year in the fourth quarter. At 3 o’clock, you have the date dial and at 6 o’clock, the moon phase aperture with corresponding days to highlight the age of the moon. And around at 9 o’clock, you have the day of the week.
Coming back to the movement again, flipping the watch over, you can see the calibre 1120 QP via the sapphire Crystal case back. It is everything that you expect to see from Vacheron Constantin, with a beautifully decorated movement that shows all the skill and artistry from the brand.
The main plate, which is actually hidden beneath a dial, is circular grained, while the bridges have been decorated in Côtes de Genève and hand-polished bevelling. You can see the circular satin-finished sinks with inset jewels as well as the polished screw heads. The gear train has polished teeth, and the oscillating weight has a 22K gold outer segment and open-worked in the shape of the Maltese Cross, iconic to Vacheron.
Initial Thoughts
As I mentioned at the start of this article, I do love a good perpetual calendar. While perpetual calendars can take various forms and sizes, the Vacheron Constantin is a pure example of a watch that has been designed in more classic case proportions. Added to this, I do like the way that Vacheron has given people multiple model variations to choose from, depending on which look they like the best.
This seems to be a bit of a recurring theme in some of Vacheron’s collection these days, and more so when it comes to the perpetual calendar, such as the Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendars that came out back in August in full white gold and pink gold cases and bracelets.
I feel this is a good thing as it gives collectors a choice: Should you want a bit more of a classic-looking watch, then the white gold model with the pink gold hands, indices, and brown leather strap will check the box. For those who want a slightly modern-looking piece, the rose gold with the blue alligator strap will also suffice. For those who like a little bit of frosting on their watch, the diamond set model will no doubt be a hit with fans of diamond watches.
Given these case sizes are in that classic 36-37 mm range, they have been designed to be effectively unisex, and the good thing here is, when you look at the diamond-set model, it doesn’t look too out of place if it were on a male wrist, but clearly Vacheron Constantin was going for the female market with this piece. Overall, like most things that Vacheron does, these are great releases and another good addition to their 270th anniversary celebrations.
Reference: 4300T/000R – H107 (Pink Gold) / 4300T/000G – H106 (White Gold) / 4305T/000G – H135 (Diamond Set)
Specification:
- Dimensions: 36.5 mm in diameter; 8.43 mm thick
- Case Material: 18K White or 5N Pink Gold, polished. White Gold with diamond-set bezel.
- Dial: Silver-toned opaline dial, snailed counters. Moonphase disc and moons in 18K white or 5N gold. 18k White or 5N gold markers, hours & minutes hands.
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, anti-reflective coating inside
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Movement: In-house Calibre 1120 QP. Beating at 2.75 Hz / 19,800VpH. 276 components
- Power reserve: 40 Hours
- Strap: Light brown / Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching with 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle. On the diamond-set model, 18K white gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds (-0.09 cts)